Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gatty, fitting of most of the gear cost me ~$1200 at perFOURmance on Algas St...that was for turbo, braided lines, dump-pipe and putting all the intercooler piping in (I fitted the cooler) It was a pretty simple jigsaw puzzle for them, supply the bits and they make it fit :)

  • 3 weeks later...

im heading down the path to turbo my r33 gts type s, rb25de aswell, i was wondering if someone could tell me what exactly i need to buy to make it work.

so far ive got the gtst manifold and crossover pipe with a bov, and ive just upgraded my clutch to a extreme heavy duty ceramic

do i need to upgrade the brakes? im pritty sure the type s came with a stock lsd im not sure?

i just need a list so that i can start collecting parts as they come available on the forums.

cheers, michael

Edited by michael87

^^ there is a 'short' list and a long list of stuff you could do when upgrading :P

some of the must haves:

turbo + manifold etc

intercooler of some type + piping

injectors (stock GTST ones will do)

some type of air/fuel control for tuning etc (engine mangement)

optionals:

fuel pump

brakes

aftermarkt BOV etc + other ricer stuff :D

quick list i made up - i am basing this on low PSI due to no internal changes to the motor

hey guys, the plan in a nutshell:

'bolt-on' a turbo to stock RB25DE engine - run about 5-7 PSI for now

Plan:

Buy exhaust manifold, turbo and replace current manifold

It should run with a boost controller and FMIC

Problem:

I need to feed the oil/water lines to/from the turbo - rather than getting holes tapped into the engine block etc the plan is to pick up the lines from other locations under the bonnet. I've had a look and can't find any info on exactly where would be suitable places to tap into the oil/water lines with success.

Someone mentioned ages ago that some Greedy/Trust bolt on packages took the oil/water from elsewhere - yet I can't find any info online etc on how exactly they do it.

Thanks guys

BTW: if anyone can see any problems with the plan let me know and we can chat about it :D

I am pretty sure all the stuff is already there. They are just blanked off with bolts instead of having the banjo fitting. The oil return is the large one on the exhaust side above the sump. Just get the right fitting and away you go. Then there should be a bolt to undo on the block just above that half way up. That's the oil feed.

Just get some braided lines made up for the water and away you go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...