Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

UPDATE:

Spoke to the ****wit responsible for my engine destruction and the Einstein claims that he drove the car from his garage to the storage yard and the car died on the way there. Mind you, this means that the car moves 15 metres, then goes down one ramp for another 15, then does a hard right 180° into another driveway and then up another ramp for 50 metres, then about 15 metres to where it was "stored". All the while you would struggle to drive the car at more than walking pace. He claims it happened going up the ramp and obviously isn't taking any responsibility for the damage.

It was so funny I almost laughed.

Almost.

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It is without doubt a bearing seized up locking the rod solid to the crank ,something had to give.

I have never doubte that. The car was stopped and towed as soon the bearing knock developed.

it is this mysterious 100m drive that is the issue.

Nick and shif_tea

Only problem there is that he doesn't have any laundry...

ross80, thanks for the newsflash, Captain.

nxtime,

my r33 developed a knock and at first i thought it was a noisy tappet so i was on my way to get some new oil, and it seized.

My bottom end bearing spun and disinegrated similar to yours but my conrod didnt snap (however it was ground out by the ring. The grooves in the block were unrepairable, the crank was f**ked and the head was only just repairable with a grind, which i ended up selling for $800.

My dad is a mechanic and he puts it down to a failed oil pump.

You towed it to this place because you wanted to alleviate any further damage and then he drives the car and it breaks????

In regards to how he might or might not of driven it my best friends built rodeo engine spat a rod out two years ago and car was travelling at about 30km/h on cruise do a bearing being starved so it is possible but its no RB so I guess its irrelevant.

You mentioned it went up a 50 metre ramp, so is it possible that if he took this ramp in too tall a gear that the pictured damage could be the result of the excess load and ill bottom end?

wether he thrashed it or idled it doesn't matter.

you towed it there with a problem, then they DROVE it to storage, it broke.

they are liable.

I say go there, with a tape recorder and say "After I had my car TOWED to you with the instruction that it has a knock sound, what EXACTLY happened from that moment until the time my block got a "speed hole". "

it's legal to record a conversation if ONE party knows it is being recorded.

that be you!

What must be considered is that he CLAIMS that the car was driven less than 100m and died going up the ramp.

Now, my car has been driven up that 45° ramp before and even if you gave it 100% throttle, it will not accelerate hard due to the large cams etc.

The bottom line is what he claims and what actually happened are two completely different things.

GTST, you are correct. It came on a tow truck because it developed a bearing knock. It SHOULD NOT have been driven at all.

But Einstein decided to drive it, and by the damaged caused, it most definitely wasn't driven a few metres up to the storage yard. It has obviously been thrashed.

What must be considered is that he CLAIMS that the car was driven less than 100m and died going up the ramp.

Now, my car has been driven up that 45° ramp before and even if you gave it 100% throttle, it will not accelerate hard due to the large cams etc.

The bottom line is what he claims and what actually happened are two completely different things.

GTST, you are correct. It came on a tow truck because it developed a bearing knock. It SHOULD NOT have been driven at all.

But Einstein decided to drive it, and by the damaged caused, it most definitely wasn't driven a few metres up to the storage yard. It has obviously been thrashed.

If u can get him to admit he drove the car at all he will be liable. That fact that u didnt tell him to not drive the car is irrelevant. That would be implied since u had the car towed to the workshop.

Who is this guy btw so i know neva to take my car there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...