Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Buy some mesh from supercheap. Attach it. If you like it, leave it. If you don't, take it off. It only costs $20-$30 I think. I put some on my car and with the current front bar (not that one <-----------) I think it looks slightly better with the mesh.

On a side note. So pissed I didn't get a photo but I looked at my mesh at the train station on Tuesday and saw a medium sized FROG splayed across the mesh! It was hard and crusty by this time but I thought that was kinda cool.

So yeah, mesh stops frogs getting mashed into your cooler.

Edited by Dee 33
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I went for no mesh. It's been like that since I installed the cooler, I do a lot of freeway/city driving, and the condition looks the same as it always has. You do get a few bugs, but when I wash my car I just wipe it down as well.

  • 2 weeks later...
I would say not having mesh is more for the wank factor... :rofl:

I went mesh to hide my fmic.

Its the look I want.

took long enough for someone to say it!!!

thats what ill be doing..mesh to hide the cooler as much as possible. black mesh, but only if i can find a mesh that doesnt look cheap...which most of them do

The only way to "hide" a FMIC is to paint it satin black, then put black mesh in front of it. But why "hide" it in the first place :).

I just prefer to spend $30 to replace the mesh rather than $200 to replace the fmic.

nsta

You need;

- Two different lengths of wood (thick, strong pieces). One the size of you horizontal sides (top/bottom), the other the size of your vertical sides (left/right)

- Masking tape

- Two big G-clamps

- Rubber hammer

- 3 large pop-rivits

- 3 strips of sheetmetal. Approx. 1" x 2" , with a hole (the size of the pop-rivits) drilled through the middle

- Tube of Automotive Sikaflex

- Side cutters (assuming it is aluminium mesh)

- A large table covered with some thick soft blankets (make sure the top layer is not your best blanket ;))

- Work bench

- A mate to give you an extra pair of hands

Now i am only going off memory from when i did mine 10 months ago

1/ Place bar face down on table

2/ Place mesh sheet over hole, then cut mesh to size, leaving at least a 1" overhang all round (a 2" overhang on top is better)

3/ Starting with the bottom, use the masking tap to mark the edge of the hole. Take mesh to work bench, line marked edge, on mesh, with edge of workbench, place wood on top of mesh, also at the marked edge. Use the G-clamp to firmly clamp the wood to the bench, ensuring all is still lined up. Use rubber hammer to gently hit the overhang up to a 90deg angle, thus forming the lower lip.

4/ Place mesh back on bar, position properly and cut along the overhang edge, to allow the sides to be folded.

5/ Using step 3/ as a guide, do the same thing for both sides, then the top. Always do only one fold at a time and re-measure the edge of the next overhang after every fold.

6/ Fold the excess, from the corners, over the sides, to form a "tray". I used small cable ties to prevent the flaps from sticking out. The mesh should now fit snug arround the hole.

7/ Remove the mesh, thoughly clean the inside of the bar, where the mesh makes contact to the bar. Position mesh back on bar.

8/ At the top, you should have three plactic tabs. Not sure if they have a hole in each tab already, but if they don't drill a hole in the middle, the same size as your pop-rivits.

9/ Pass the pop-rivit through the bar, then up through the mesh, then through one of your pieces of sheetmetal. Repeat for the other 2 tabs.

This is the only pic i can provide to help you ;)

post-1811-1139920097.jpg

10/ For the other sides (and along the top where possible) pump in the sikaflex, making sure it reaches the bar. Don't be shy, i used a whole tube on mine :(, just make sure it is not visable from the front. Use a "make shift" scrapper to spread the sikaflex evenly and to push it through the mesh.

If you are concerned about the strength, don't be :). When i hit the cat/possum the mesh broke along the bottom and side folds. It wasn't easy removing the old mesh and sikaflex :(

11/ Remount the indicator supports, refit the indicators.

and i think that is just about it :P

GOOD LUCK!!

Al

I had a mate that had his car fitted with a front mount along with an engine conversion and he cant get the car engineered until he covers the intercooler with mesh. apparently its a defect, but then again what isnt these days. i think just having a skyline badge is a defect to most cops, hehe.

Edited by GTS4dood

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...