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Don it 1 at nicholson rd yale garden st rounder bowt

i was not going to fast 70kms but i had never experenced it before

back end went loose with no lose of traction so i slowed down a little

went home and changed the undies

i am considering removal aswel

james

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on r32 its hydraulic from power steering fluid,on r33 pretty sure electronic,

pull the fuse out on r33 (hicas light will be on dash) that gets rid of it for free !

Edited by turbohectics
hahaah, im keen on a group buy, but im located in NZ?i need gettin rid of HICAS

Then there were 2.

33's are electric but you cant just pull the plug. The best way is by removing the entire rack and replacing it with a steal bar like the ones GTRGeoff (SkylineGeoff)makes.

Hey Geoff, your getting plenty of plugs here :O

Hi GMR33, sorry but I havn't been looking much, and tend to not try to "plug" my stuff by intruding on discussion. If people want them they soon find me.

In this case though I can offer some advice on HICAS, as I have 3 Skyline R33's to compare. R33GTS25tt (yes TT) without HICAS (my poor broken track car), R33GTS25t auto with HICAS and R33GTR with HICAS (soon to be without).

The HICAS is designed to induce understeer over 80kmh. Understeer is considered the safest response for numpty drivers. The problem though when racing/driving at or near the limit is that as you enter the corner on your line, the HICAS then turns the rear toward the corner causing understeer so you turn in more to hit your mark. But because HICAS then runs out of turn angle the rear then starts to take over and you will slide the rear a bit, especially if you set the car up a bit harder on the rear bar, or you compression slide like I do in the auto and GTR. So now your are winding off lock, and maybe oversteer a bit so HICAS turns out of the corner trying to turn you around. You can then end up in the tank slapper (or sankey, like a porka 911) and usually a wall is right where you don't want to be.

It's fine for normal driving, but can catch you out as soon as you have a play without warning. So I don't recommend disabling it for everyone, in fact the auto is keeping it as it has to go (5 cars is apparently too many the wife says :rolleyes: ) but I do skidpan stuff in the GTR and drive it daily through some fun places so it has to go.

Bad news is I have only a few R33/34 fabrication kits left and they are more or less spoken for by some mates, but there are plenty of R32/180/Silvia kits left. I have no plans just yet to get more parts machining done until the R32 ones are almost gone as I'm redesigning the threaded inserts for easier fabrication.

I'll see how demand goes though for 33/34 and may bring them back sooner.

All other info is below.

Cheers

Geoff

Hi Geoff, thsi link doesn't seem to work, or is it my stupid firewall?

Instructions

http://url=http://www.skylinesaustralia.co...showtopic=58778

:P cheers :)

Fixed mate, and thanks for the heads up. An extra bit of crap got into my sig instructions.

Hope that item I sent is satisfactory.

:(

Hi GMR33, sorry but I havn't been looking much, and tend to not try to "plug" my stuff by intruding on discussion. If people want them they soon find me.

In this case though I can offer some advice on HICAS, as I have 3 Skyline R33's to compare. R33GTS25tt (yes TT) without HICAS (my poor broken track car), R33GTS25t auto with HICAS and R33GTR with HICAS (soon to be without).

The HICAS is designed to induce understeer over 80kmh. Understeer is considered the safest response for numpty drivers. The problem though when racing/driving at or near the limit is that as you enter the corner on your line, the HICAS then turns the rear toward the corner causing understeer so you turn in more to hit your mark. But because HICAS then runs out of turn angle the rear then starts to take over and you will slide the rear a bit, especially if you set the car up a bit harder on the rear bar, or you compression slide like I do in the auto and GTR. So now your are winding off lock, and maybe oversteer a bit so HICAS turns out of the corner trying to turn you around. You can then end up in the tank slapper (or sankey, like a porka 911) and usually a wall is right where you don't want to be.

It's fine for normal driving, but can catch you out as soon as you have a play without warning. So I don't recommend disabling it for everyone, in fact the auto is keeping it as it has to go (5 cars is apparently too many the wife says :( ) but I do skidpan stuff in the GTR and drive it daily through some fun places so it has to go.

Bad news is I have only a few R33/34 fabrication kits left and they are more or less spoken for by some mates, but there are plenty of R32/180/Silvia kits left. I have no plans just yet to get more parts machining done until the R32 ones are almost gone as I'm redesigning the threaded inserts for easier fabrication.

I'll see how demand goes though for 33/34 and may bring them back sooner.

All other info is below.

Cheers

Geoff

I would love one of these too... count me in if you do another run

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