Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm looking into buying a Skyline soon, and am a bit curious as to what I can do with it.

Now, bear in mind, a lot of these questions will probably be pretty stupid... so this is an early warning :D

So far, I've looked at the R32's and the R33's, as I have a fairly limited budget (probably around $8-$12k for the car itself)

I am also a red P plater in NSW, and unfortunately have the P plate turbo restriction. For the next 2 1/2 years.

What would you guys recommend, out of the R32 or R33? I'm looking for something that will be reliable, fairly fuel efficient, quick and responsive.

Now, what I've considered (don't know if it's possible, but I'll ask anyway) is getting a GTST, as there are so many more than GTS's, and removing the turbo, at least for now.

Is this a solution, or would buying a GTS now be better, and adding a turbo later when I can actually use it?

I'm pretty much considering a GTS as I won't have to worry about totally ripping it apart and pulling the turbo off.

Also any good, easy performance mods?

Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104898-r32-or-r33-gtst-or-gts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

personaly i reckon go for a r33

and buying a gtst wouldn't be such a bad idea

but.............

read this about turning a non turbo into a turbo - ur doing the reverse if u get a gtst

Click Here!!

the compression ratios are different between the n/a and turbo, and u have to get a n/a exhaust manifold for the engine

it could be as difficult as buying a gts and putting a turbo onto it

with the budget i reckon go a r32 gts - and then look for a top condition one (prob set back about 10-12k)

Edited by usherly

I like the styling of the R33's... but love the R32 styling.

I like the insides of the 33's more, as they don't look so old... but they're a bit cramped.

Also, took a R33 for a test spin the other day... and it didn't really have much in the way of any guts? A bit of a downer... but it was a stock GTS, and apparently is a 2.5l... so RB25DE?

I kinda expected more go from it :D

I might have been looking at a bit of a lemon though... not a bad car, but just a bit underpowered it seemed... and coming from me who still drives his 1.6l holden nova, I think that's a fairly accurate statement...

thats the thing with skylines especially with gtr's and gtst's, they have been talked up so much and rated so highly that when u get in a gts, it seems a total let down. i know what you mean by how they feel gutless (but at the end of the day its a 2L or 2.5L twin cam)

down in the low rpms i find my car to be totally crap - but when i start getting around 4000rpm onwards till about 6000rpm it really picks up... its so chunky up at high revs and i love it.

it doesnt have that push you into your seat feeling, but it just pulls and keeps pulling and sounds like a dog with chilli on its nuts.

just depends what you want really... handling? styling? power?

from there you can decide - what would be a good base to start on. then when u find that point where your comfortable with what you have - go have fun.

Eug - I was expecting at least a bit of the push you in your seat feeling :D

But nothing like a GTR... I know those things are beastly, and didn't think it'd be too close to them, but to get back in my nova and take off a lot faster kind of set off warning bells for me.

I don't expect them to be supercars... but I did expect a distinct performance improvement :D

I'll be a big fan of better handling... I don't like how much my car rocks when I go 'round corners too fast, I think it sways a LOT. Jump in a friends lancer... and I can come around the corner 20km/h faster and not feel like it's about to roll. That kind of feeling is one thing I'll be expecting a bit more from a skyline... reckon that's a reasonable expectation?

LOTS of power I don't really care about, I'm happy being in the mid power range.

And almost every skyline I've seen so far is dead sexy, and I can only make it look better. Styling isn't my problem :O

you can make a skyline handle better easy. some low springs, front and rear sway bars. if you want more power do the exhaust and a pod filter. so say spend 2grand all up and youll have a nice handling car that should sound damn good.

you can go cheeper if you use factory parts of the turbo skylines as there bigger and better.

turbo skylines are more performance cars then N/A. N/A is more luxuary and comfort with decient fuel econamy.

you can make a skyline handle better easy. some low springs, front and rear sway bars. if you want more power do the exhaust and a pod filter. so say spend 2grand all up and youll have a nice handling car that should sound damn good.

you can go cheeper if you use factory parts of the turbo skylines as there bigger and better.

turbo skylines are more performance cars then N/A. N/A is more luxuary and comfort with decient fuel econamy.

Plans were for a new exhaust and air filter pretty much off the bat, so there's that set :)

Don't know about the springs, though... how well do they handle without the lowered springs?

Sway bars will probably go in as well.

i'm probably a bit like u then... i'm a big fan of handling and control - love the twisty stuff.

That kind of feeling is one thing I'll be expecting a bit more from a skyline... reckon that's a reasonable expectation?

thats not an expectation!! thats a given!! haha.

i've got whiteline swaybars on my car 27mm front and 24mm adjustable rears - let me tell you now, these have by far been the best $400 odd that i have spent. so much more improvement - the car has much less body roll, sits very flat through the corners and allows you to get back on the throttle much much faster midway through the corner (something you wouldnt dare do in a turbo)

all this on standard shocks and springs... so far they are holding up well and feel very very good (mate told me not to f**k with a good thing so they are staying for the moment)

along with the stiff skyline chassis - you'll have yourself one very confident and comfortable ride..

I'll be a big fan of better handling... I don't like how much my car rocks when I go 'round corners too fast, I think it sways a LOT. Jump in a friends lancer... and I can come around the corner 20km/h faster and not feel like it's about to roll.

Unless that was an Evo you drove, that Holden of yours must be horrendous. I drove a friend's Lancer GLXi, and it rolled around like a toddler on bubble wrap.

Plans were for a new exhaust and air filter pretty much off the bat, so there's that set

In that case, buy the GTS-t. Engine performance modifications are banned for P platers in NSW regardless of the induction type, so if you're not planning on driving a car you're legally permitted to then just get the turbo and give yourself a half decent reason for it.

haha, R33s have the biggest interior between R32-R34, so if you go for an R32, it will be more cramped  :lol:

Really?!

I got in a R32 at a car yard, and I seemed to just sprawl in it... and the R33 I took for a test spin was cramped :(

I'm looking at another R33 tonight... wish me luck :P haha

Also - scathing - 'twas a almost totally stock '94 GLXi. My mate loves that car :) It's a hell of a thing for being totally stock, except for exhaust and air filter...

i'd opt for an R32 GTS25 (basically an R32 with an R33 GTS25 engine as standard).

I'm not sure how that fairs under the power to weight laws...

small tip... R32 GTS25's meet power to weight requirements for import under SEVS :(

do we rock or what...

Hey guys,

I'm looking into buying a Skyline soon, and am a bit curious as to what I can do with it.

Now, bear in mind, a lot of these questions will probably be pretty stupid... so this is an early warning :(

So far, I've looked at the R32's and the R33's, as I have a fairly limited budget (probably around $8-$12k for the car itself)

I am also a red P plater in NSW, and unfortunately have the P plate turbo restriction. For the next 2 1/2 years.

What would you guys recommend, out of the R32 or R33? I'm looking for something that will be reliable, fairly fuel efficient, quick and responsive.

Now, what I've considered (don't know if it's possible, but I'll ask anyway) is getting a GTST, as there are so many more than GTS's, and removing the turbo, at least for now.

Is this a solution, or would buying a GTS now be better, and adding a turbo later when I can actually use it?

I'm pretty much considering a GTS as I won't have to worry about totally ripping it apart and pulling the turbo off.

Also any good, easy performance mods?

Thanks guys!

Hey man, I'm in pretty much the same situation as you right now.

I've been saving for yonks and I'm going for my P's in two weeks. I drive a corolla right now, but I'll be forking out for hopefully an R32 GTS. It will have to be auto too, because I don't have a manual car to do the test in.

Anyways, I'm going for a late series R32 if I can find one, because I like the look of R32s rather than the R33s.

I haven't test drived a car yet, but I'm not expecting a RB20 or RB25 to be powerful. I don't actually want it, to be honest, because I'm not a very experienced driver yet.

As for taking the turbo off a GTS-t, don't bother. As someone has already said, there are compression issues. You'd be spending extra cash to get something which you could have already bought in factory condition sans turbo. Makes sense to just get the GTS then hey?

Anyways, good luck with your search. Let me know if you find an auto R32 for sale - just PM me. Cheers.

I have a R32 non turbo. Reason for this-

Personally i think R32 are easily the best looking out of the two and they are cheaper than the r33. When i look at 33's i actually feel like im looking at a huge whale of a commodore. The 32's just look slimmer and sexier in my mind plus they are lighter and go just as hard as their bigger brother with only a 2 litre. I found that the RB20 is a dead set mother pumpin engine built to take a life of tough driving. The brakes are the same as a r33 i think......from memory but yes youll find the interior may be i a bit worse of condition compared to a R33. But just buy yourself a 1993 model and there is not m,any year differences between 32 and 33's. Thats just my two cents and it does not apply to everyone. Each to their own, but hey those R32's with Rb25's in them sound rather attrative deal!!! the biggger engine with the sexy 32 look!!!!

good luck mate. Im currently thinking of selling my 32 to change over to a drift car...its a bit to good for me to go drifting in. I couldnt afford to damage it...plus i would kill myself if i did. But dont let anyone tell you these things cant go sideways!

Okay guys, R33 number two was tested today.

When I got there, it was basically me and my dad looking at the thing, with his mother watching... The seller was not actually at home at the time.

Now, the few things that pushed my buttons were...

1.) Respray. The whole car had been resprayed silver, and had dark grey/black surrounds. Made the car look a fair hit worse... but it still looked okay, for a R33.

2.) Tyres blacked, engine bay totally degreased, underside of car with a fair bit of black sticky stuff (like degreaser, but thicker) on the underside. Car also resprayed underneath, it seemed...

3.) Sounded like the exhaust was rattling a tiny bit when accellerating over about 3500rpm, but stopped after a few seconds, and we couldn't do it again.

4.) Entire inside covered in armourall. I hated that :P Stuck to black surfaces.

5.) Little bits not 100%... no skyline badge on boot keyhole, ashtray came out, centre console catch didn't, well, catch.

6.) Some rust on some of the bolts. Looked like it had been kept near the sea for a little while.

Car overall looked a bit tacky, especially compared to the last one we looked at... which just seemed cleaner. Maybe I just don't like the silver body/black surrounds combination, but it looked a bit dirty.

More power, more response than the first R33, though... led me to believe that this one had been used properly in it's lifetime.

Apart from that, ran well, serviced regularly, and no wheels or doors fell off during the test spin.

Any pointers? :D

I have a R32 non turbo. Reason for this-

      Personally i think R32 are easily the best looking out of the two and they are cheaper than the r33.  When i look at 33's i actually feel like im looking at a huge whale of a commodore. The 32's just look slimmer and sexier in my mind plus they are lighter and go just as hard as their bigger brother with only a 2 litre. I found that the RB20 is a dead set mother pumpin engine built to take a life of tough driving. The brakes are the same as a r33 i think......from memory but yes youll find the interior may be i a bit worse of condition compared to a R33. But just buy yourself a 1993 model and there is not m,any year differences between 32 and 33's.  Thats just my two cents and it does not apply to everyone. Each to their own, but hey those R32's with Rb25's in them sound rather attrative deal!!! the biggger engine with the sexy 32 look!!!!

good luck mate. Im currently thinking of selling my 32 to change over to a drift car...its a bit to good for me to go drifting in. I couldnt afford to damage it...plus i would kill myself if i did. But dont let anyone tell you these things cant go sideways!

I love the sex appeal a R32 has. Nothing better. I think the R33's are bubbly, and the R34's are too tall and thin, however the R32's are just pure awesome.

What kind of price would you be looking at for your R32? :O

Hey man, I'm in pretty much the same situation as you right now.

I've been saving for yonks and I'm going for my P's in two weeks. I drive a corolla right now, but I'll be forking out for hopefully an R32 GTS. It will have to be auto too, because I don't have a manual car to do the test in.

Anyways, I'm going for a late series R32 if I can find one, because I like the look of R32s rather than the R33s.

I haven't test drived a car yet, but I'm not expecting a RB20 or RB25 to be powerful. I don't actually want it, to be honest, because I'm not a very experienced driver yet.

As for taking the turbo off a GTS-t, don't bother. As someone has already said, there are compression issues. You'd be spending extra cash to get something which you could have already bought in factory condition sans turbo. Makes sense to just get the GTS then hey?

Anyways, good luck with your search. Let me know if you find an auto R32 for sale - just PM me. Cheers.

Almost an identical situation!

The Nova I drive currently is a rebadged 'Rolla, and mine's only a year older than yours :P Pity it's got the 4AFE in it, I would probably have been happy with a 4AGE engine in the nova, and make it handle better... but, I think the Skyline bug has bitten me this time :O

I want something that corners, goes fast, looks sexy, and that I can feel at home in.

I love the R32... but the R33's extended lifetime, similar price and done up looks are starting to appeal to me, both economically and visually :D

Hard to decide.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...