Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know lag is a big thing, but if power hits at 5000rpm thats fine beause we will be reving it out to 9000rpm

What are you going to do about the gear ratios?

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It still seems a lot of turbo for the 600 odd Hp , what do twin 2530's get you if the manifolds and turbine housings are cleaned up and good dumps and cams are used ?

Answer = 404AWKW on pump gas.....443AWKW on race fuel.

Im going GT-RS's......450AWKW on pump gas!!

I think this car if its the same R33 had 2.7lt jun kit and was his fathers car and keep the JUN plenum(enless your buying a veilside one hmmmmm)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=105214

Go the 3037H turbos and 1100hp at 11500rpm yep yep

Brad

sorry my bad no 2.7lt Kit

engine details

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=68945&hl=

engine details

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=62842&hl=

I think you will need a billet crank to make use of 3037s but you can prove me wrong :P

Nismoid what are the exact differences other then what hp they're rated at, I've always wanted to know

One is BB one is bush, if i recall correctly

And thier hp ratings were different.

i'll have a look around, it was on here somewhere

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...