Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks2535 Not Holding Boost

silva33

By silva33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

silva33 Mentor

silva33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
does it feel like its going as hard on 14psi as it originally was?

with 244rwkw it should be spinning in 2nd and some of 3rd with the big phat mid-range this turbo produces

It felt great at 14psi but i have been told my my mechanic that it didnt feel like 244rwkw at all... I havent driven it since i had the problem as i didnt want to pick the car up if it wasnt 100%

In my opinion it feels great (but i havent drivent anything to compare it to), and pulls hard but deinatley wont spin 2nd unless i really abuse it and never 3rd no matter what i do..

What sort of power did yours make??

reflex Collaborator

reflex

Posted
Posted

i made less than yours.. 231rwkw

i have 255 tryes on the back with 80% tread.

if i come out of a round about in 2nd and stomp on it they will spin from 4000rpm onwards and i get some spin in 3rd but not much...

really scary at first because it would come on boost rapidly and push u back into the seat...

apparently the dyno my car was tuned is a bit tight and there might be an extra 8-10kw in it but who cares.

silva33 Mentor

silva33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I dunno, i did a dyno day in shoot out mod without touching the car from the 244rwkw and it made 211rwkw (35 degree day) and then yesterday he put it on the dyno (non Shhot out) and it made 200ish, then 220 with a touch of the tune and 16psi...

The difference between the 244 rwkw and the 211 to now is, i just had injectors installed and a Z32 AFM and an EBC...

silva33 Mentor

silva33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im only having trouble with the addition of Injectors, Z32 and EBC with more boost... The only problem is that i wont hold the 17-18psi it is given... It hits 18psi then drops strainght back to 12psi, anything more than about 14-15psi and it jsut drops off...

Previously i was running 244 rwkw witrh the stock injectors stock AFM and no boost controller with the stock nissan actuator

  • 1 month later...
GTshortie Proficient

GTshortie

Posted
Posted

Hey Silva33, can you post a pic of your dyno graph showing us the drop in boost?

'I'M HAVING A SIMILAR PROBLEM' but my turbo is alot smaller similar to a 2530 but still i believe it should hold more boost then what is doing currently.

Garret T3/T4 A/R0.60 Compressor i think the rear is a tiny 0.58 turbine.

200rwkw@5000rpm peak 1.0bar of boost and down to around 10psi at redline

210rwkw@5000rpm peak 1.30bar and down to 12.5psi at redline.

running a avc-r boost controoler.

here is my graph

post-9504-1142776064.jpg

warriorbrawl Contributor

warriorbrawl

Posted
Posted

Damn you just beat me to it I was reading thru all the posts to make sure no one had already suggested it!

I once had a split in my silicone connector for the FMIC and it was the same problem as you were having.

It can be hard to tell with all the induction noise and revs etc.

you keep looking for more boost and it is doing it, its just not getting thru to the inlet manifold.

well done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...