Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

damm brakes are really pi#^@ng me off.

they squeal under braking, i have changed the pads so far, bendix advance, bendix ultimate, had the rotors machined, now i have just put the 4000series on. does anyone know if there is supposed to be tin between the pad and the pistons??????? i have put anti squeal on, still no good.

any other suggestions guys? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105489-noisy-brakes/
Share on other sites

well rang nissan, to get the shims........ you have to buy the caliper kit.......$170. my ass im spending that to get the shims. rang every business i could find in the yellow pages and yeah they have them, but cant seperate them from the calipers. the only way to get them is if someone has completely stuffed calipers. i cant see that being the only way. does anyone else know someone that might have these shims??????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105489-noisy-brakes/#findComment-1945636
Share on other sites

Hi mate

I have recently overhauled my calipers and there isn't much to go wrong in them - what I mean is the chances of having stuffed calipers are pretty slim.

Have you tried calling a brake specialist? They *may* be able to manufacture something or modify an exisiting shim cheaper than buying a replacement set of calipers?

Perhaps call JustJap or JMS or any other wrecker?

If you ZILLA01 is an R32, then the R33 GTS25t shims should fit.

Hope it helps :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105489-noisy-brakes/#findComment-1945996
Share on other sites

thanks cowie.

i tried calling justjap and jms, they wont strip their calipers for these parts. my car is the r33. i have manufactured 4 shims today using brass shim paper. it stops the squealing under light and hard brake applications but still squeals when the wheel is turned under light braking, but will not squeal under straight light braking so go figure.

so a hint to other people if your brakes are squealing, try and get some brass shim paper from repco and cut out with a pair of sissors the shape of the pad with the two pin holes and try that. it has sort of worked for me. make sure that you still put anti squeal on the pad, then the shim paper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105489-noisy-brakes/#findComment-1946193
Share on other sites

I had really bad squeeling problems. Took the pads out and cleaned the contact faces ( and the pads in general ), cleaned the entire caliper including the slide area and cleaned all the shims etc. I then got the discs machined, made sure everything was tight etc and put it all back together again. I went for a long hard drive through the nasho and tried to get them heated & bedded but no joy, they squeeled as bad as ever.

Anyway, during the last Putty Rd cruise I got the opportunity to put some "REAL" heat into the pads and rotors. I'm talking about at least 1/2 hour of hard driving using the brakes a lot. Since then, they make a little bit of a squeel for the first 5 minutes of driving and then they're dead quite !! So...... my suggestion is to find a nice long drive ( or track day ) and get the pads and rotors really hot ( bed them in like you're teaching them a lesson :P )

ALso, I'm running Winmax Pads and Zeal Straight 6 rotors. Before them I had EBC pads and rotors which I bedded in around Eastern Creek and they never made a noise after that day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105489-noisy-brakes/#findComment-1977747
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...