Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Pipe + Dump Pipe (Before/After Dyno Results) - 203rwkw Stock ECU/Turbo


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by EnricoPalazzo

Man wats up with ur ECU

your car is a freak

Congrats!! : )

I've said it before and I'll say it again.

I swear the 1995 ECU's are different, but I'll check when I get mine done.... One day.....

JiMiH - I wouldn't say the difference was massive, but it was noticable.

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Benm - if you ever have a look at your ECU, let me know what the MEC number is on it.

The MEC number is located on a black sticker on the lid and the back of the ECU covers, and also stamped on the CPU itself.

It'll be something like MEC-R523 etc. The MEC number is the firmware version in the main CPU.

It'll be interesting to see what you have.

Unless you've got a chipped ECU, then that blows that idea out of the water ;)

J

Well I've got a 95 model and my A/F ratio was 10.5:1 before the SAFC tune, so either the ECU has been fiddled with or maybe your fuel pump is not flowing the best or down on press, either way good result, I only managed 188rwkw@12psi and that's with the SAFC, no dump or hiflow cat though do you think the dump is a worthwhile mod?

Originally posted by turbomad

Well I've got a 95 model and my A/F ratio was 10.5:1 before the SAFC tune, so either the ECU has been fiddled with or maybe your fuel pump is not flowing the best or down on press, either way good result, I only managed 188rwkw@12psi and that's with the SAFC, no dump or hiflow cat though do you think the dump is a worthwhile mod?

but look how straight his a/f graph is when on boost. A faulty fuel pump would have it all over the place and not that linear! Sum1 has tinkered with it for sure!

You're always a sceptic aren't you insasnt!

Good work there benm.. although to me it sounds like the A/F is running too nicely for it to be a non-modded ECU (in whatever way). Maybe not though, and it could be a '95 ECU difference if there is such a thing.

For some comparison i should have my '94 dynoed this weekend. I have a HKS dump pipe, front pipe to hiflow cat and straight thru 3" (Super Dragger II), and fairly similar setup with i/c, safc, pod, but now running an EBC.. I changed the oil the other week and should have put some new plugs in before it goes on the rollers (or at least gap checked/re-gapped) to give it peak performance. Will see what mine can get up to. Last was 177 but that was the previous owner on a different dyno without the EBC). Seems like a few are getting right up there to reaching 200rwkw without changing the turbo but of course everybody will argue dyno dynamics.

I'll post what I find out this weekend (with hopefully some people who know a lot more than i do!)

Anybody...Can u measure the A/F ratio via the SAFC ? I have an airflow % is that similar?? Can i work it out via some means?

predator666

we will see if u can beat me this weekend on he same dyno. Thats the only way u can really compare rwkw figures cause all dynos vary.

u need to get the signal from the oxygen sensor to be able to get the a/f ratio. The safc doesent get that sort of signal input i dont think, cant remember what wires i spliced into the ecu!

I see what Jay is getting @ here, & have always wondered about this possible '95 ECU difference? After all the Apexi PFC part # changes after late '94. I realise this is due to a number of changes (ignition amp being one of them) but just maybe........?

Actual dyno figures aside, it certainly is interesting how a number of '95 model GTS25t's have very good A/FR's with OEM ECU's!? And seem to make good power (rwkw) with the OEM ECU. Not all 95's do but I've now seen 5 or more that are "freaks".

Bugalug's car - ~204rwkw, stock ECU, perfect A/FR's throughout the rev range (12:1 peak power)

Benm - Well whadda ya' know! The same mod's as Bug's car - 203rwkw, stock ECU & impressive A/FR's given the norm' for a GTS25t (10.0 - 10.8-1)

rev210 - Very impressive 1/4 results! No doubt helped by a good use of basic mods & driver skill (low 60's for a 205) but none the less a high TS of 104mph. Wish you'd have put it on a known local DD dyno to see what the A/FR's were like rev! (prior to the S-AFC2).

There's more to add to this list but I can't recall names @ the moment? Some of the SDU '95 owners are among the list of outstanding OEM ECU results too.

It could be total coincidence that these "freaks" are '95 models? But I've yet to see a 93-94 GTS25t with a stock ECU running the show produce much better than high 10's - low 11's A/FR @ peak power.

its hard to measure of course once any sort of aftermarket thing goes in.. but i can pull some chip numbers out of my ECU - think my car build is 11/94 so could be an interesting one.

YAY - someone see's what I'm trying to say...... :D:/ :/

Well, when I get off my butt and take my car to a dyno I'll do a comparison cause I've got a 1993 and a 1995 ECU at home (I popped the tacho output on the 1995 :( , and got the 1993 to replace it).

That way I can do a direct back to back dyno run on the same dyno 5 minutes appart.

The 1993 ECU is MEC-R521 serial no., and the 1995 ECU is MEC-R523.

Stay tuned :D

My AFR's non-SAFC are around the 12's at best, for sure.

my ecu is a '522'.

What a rip off I only got the 94 ecu! Thats why my car is so slow! I knew it those bastards! That does it I'm putting the concrete in my boot tonight!

BTW I am pretty sure my R33 is making around 270HP @ the motor maybe a little less. Judging from the cars speed and my previous experiences.

before people ask me "how do I know my AFR's aren't lower?"

Look how much fricken timing I've run on it! Now with the S-afc sorting things I can't run as much if I want the leaner pastures. And I can lean quite alot without dropping below factory advance.

Originally posted by rev210

Further to my post about guesstimating my afr's I should have said my top end would be 9s and the low/mid range max of 12's (non-closed loop stuff).

how is it possible for u to guesstimate your a/f ratio's?? unless u are running behind the car smelling the exhaust fumes. :lol:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...