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I think a HKS2530 is going to be waaaay too small for a twincam 30.

Before I decided to built my engine properly (read: when it still had stock rods n stuff), I figured 400rwhp and a rev limit of 6750rpm was going to be pretty safe.

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i would but i have these and have been fully recond, matched to mines dump pipes and tomie manifolds,

I have 2860r -5's on mine, so very similar to 2530's. Makes 460rwhp and has great midrange. Also using Mines dumps.

hows the response Matt? i run a single gt3076r and its just too small draggin my big lump of a car around (1730kg worth), the response is awesome but i want more power ! I have been meaning to catch up and see your 30 setup for a few years now, and now ive built one i wouldnt mind seeing the turbo performance using the -5s on a 30.

hows the response Matt? i run a single gt3076r and its just too small draggin my big lump of a car around (1730kg worth), the response is awesome but i want more power ! I have been meaning to catch up and see your 30 setup for a few years now, and now ive built one i wouldnt mind seeing the turbo performance using the -5s on a 30.

Still got your old T04Z lying around Brad? or are you not wanting to make THAT much power?

hows the response Matt? i run a single gt3076r and its just too small draggin my big lump of a car around (1730kg worth), the response is awesome but i want more power ! I have been meaning to catch up and see your 30 setup for a few years now, and now ive built one i wouldnt mind seeing the turbo performance using the -5s on a 30.

You really need to lose 200kg's.. That will fix everything. :mrt:

Yeah the response isn't bad. At a guess, having driven a mate's 26 with GT-SS, I'd say its similar in response to that. Its not like a V8 in terms of throttle response or anything - but its pretty good. You're welcome to come have a look anytime. Will be down at AHG (sorry, RAC now..) at the end of this month if you want to check it out.

right i knew everything was going to smooth in my build, the problem i have is this ,

i have moved the cam tensoiner to above the water pump,

BUT THE LOWER ONE IN STANDARD PLACE IS PROBLEM

When i bolt the idler pully on to the block its at an angle, there seems to be a raised bit causing it, any thoughts on what this raised bit is or can i just grind it down,

some pics

camidler002-1.jpg

camidler004.jpg

camidler001.jpg

Purpleskyline: the problem is thats its a series 1 block, meaning no flat spot for the idler.The lump part is how far out the idler should sit so dont grind it off, you need to make the rest of the area the same height out from the block or the pulley wont be in line with the tensioner, etc.

i welded mine up on my first block but saved hassled and used a s2 block on the second motor. Im sure some sort of packer/plate could be made to let it sit on it flat

Bubba: i have the t04z and thats going on the drift motor for the gtr now (another 26/30) and swapping onto the jun 2.7l when i run that in the gtr. Should be interesting :) i may also throw this gt30 on the 26/30 as well because 400hp in a stripped out rwd 32 will be alot more fun and great response.

the question is to go -5s or not, i want the standard look really so single is abit of a turn off considering its supposed to be daily driver material. I have custom 3' dumps already made to suit for the twins so its a full bolt on affair.

I got too many cars and options for all of them its a struggle to decide when to do what lol :)

i want the standard look really so single is abit of a turn off considering its supposed to be daily driver material. I have custom 3' dumps already made to suit for the twins so its a full bolt on affair.

same reason i stuck with low mount twins, didnt want to attract too much attention

although my personal fav is high mount twins for bling :D

same reason i stuck with low mount twins, didnt want to attract too much attention

although my personal fav is high mount twins for bling :D

Ditto for me, but the biggest issue for me is that I can't get the front Cam Wheel Cover on and have had to cut the supports under the bonnet to get the lid to shut.

Marko - what have you done here? Have you been able to close the bonnet and get the front cover on without chopping the bonnet supports up?

right i knew everything was going to smooth in my build, the problem i have is this ,

i have moved the cam tensoiner to above the water pump,

BUT THE LOWER ONE IN STANDARD PLACE IS PROBLEM

When i bolt the idler pully on to the block its at an angle, there seems to be a raised bit causing it, any thoughts on what this raised bit is or can i just grind it down,

some pics

I have laser cut plates made that bolt in place for the tensioner to bolt up against. You need to cut 10mm off the back of the tensioner centre post, best done in a lathe so it's square.

post-8303-1255086794_thumb.jpg

post-8303-1255086819_thumb.jpg

Ditto for me, but the biggest issue for me is that I can't get the front Cam Wheel Cover on and have had to cut the supports under the bonnet to get the lid to shut.

Marko - what have you done here? Have you been able to close the bonnet and get the front cover on without chopping the bonnet supports up?

i dont run the front cam cover, i like seeing the cam gears.

i did however cut the bonnet to clear inlet cam shaft cover and also the factory 'twin turbo' plumbing pipe...mega tight fit but well worth it :D

lol i gain an extra 200kg (stagea) over a gtr but my bonnet shuts without an issue with covers on and twin turbo pipe on ;) I'd still rather lose 200kg and need less power lol.

I have been thinking about running twin gtrs turbos now instead of -5s, i think they are -10s from memory? I remember someone on here runs them on a 30 setup and wondering what the drivability is like? i want around 500hp at wheels mark on 18-20psi. Im running a freshened bottom end but still stock rods and duratech cast pistons, so still around the 8:1 comp ratio. I dont care if the thing blows to bits i wanna see how long it will last :D My head is stock 26 with no port work and stock cams at the moment which wont help either, but bolt in cams are always a future option.

Edited by unique1
I have been thinking about running twin gtrs turbos now instead of -5s, i think they are -10s from memory? I remember someone on here runs them on a 30 setup and wondering what the drivability is like?

-10s are like gtrs, u are right.

i have -10s on my 26/30 as well as n1gtr and another member but i cant remember his name, power delivery is fantastic with very strong early midrange.

my engine is far from standard though with forged bits, large cams, ported head etc

in terms of drivability, i can say that it feels more responsive and much stronger than my previous setup gtss rb26, top end is chalk and cheese making another 100awkw

Edited by Marko R1

thanks marko i used to run a t04z on a 2.7l in this same car and it wasnt too bad really, went hard as hell from 4k onwards but had a revlimit of 8500rpm so a decent powerband. The 30 is limited to 7k so as long as its going alright around 3700rpm or so onwards i'd be pretty happy.

This 3076 is making 18psi at 2900rpm which is alright but dies in the arse at 5000rpm onwards and is too noisy at low rpm whistling and making jet like noises which i personally dont want. Im sure people cant say a turbo is too responsive but i think it is. What sort of power figures are the -10s making around the 18-20psi mark on most setups?

I realise headwork and cams play a big part but im just wondering whether expecting to get anywhere near 500hp at wheels on a reasonable boost limit is asking a bit much.

I would love to go single (t04z most likely) but cop issues around here have gone to another level with new emission testing etc i dont want the hassle and its all engineered for twins anyway so then it stays all legal to the regular eye :ermm:

Edited by unique1

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