Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have been looking for any bits of various info on the A-LSD fitted on my r33 since day one but I never really found out much about it. I have changed the ECU to the Apexi PowerFC and I intermittently get A-LSD fail (known incompability with the powerfc) and it turns itself off leaving me in single spinner mode until i reboot the car. The car has the Vpsec diff with the finned cover and A-LSD and SLIP on the dash cluster. THe only info I have is that it piggybacks somehow off the ABS system (we think) to detect wheel speed to decide if loss of traction has occured.

Does anyone have any more info than just guesses on my behalf? Any diagrams, diagnostics, test, ideas would be great as I would like to learn more. How is the system turned on, what is turned on? can it be controlled by something else? can i override it and make it slip when i want? would there be a way to reboot it with the car running as its bloody annoying when it dies, you have to stop and power off the car and back on again to make it come online again.

There's an 8 page thread on the incompability of the A-LSD on the PowerFC if you would like to read up on what we've seen but its nothing more than ideas and other various bits of crap, nothing helpful or concrete

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8464&hl=*a-lsd*

Hopefully someone has some more info, fialing that I could ask nissan if they have any info, the R33 service manual states that nissan can do A-LSD diag (with stock ecu) and that consult can check it, but it doesnt state what exactly or anything. I could take the car to nissan with the stock ECU in and get them to check it but would like to know more and possibly make it work a little better with the powerfc (manual override controls)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106326-skyline-a-lsd-system/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

just an update, after my recent motorkhana day and being stuck in single spinner mode the whole bloody time thanks to a-lsd failing all day i had a look at it today and found some more info

on the right hand side rear inside panel behind the wheel there are two hydraulic pumps and two plugs. one plug is red/brown and their other is white. the red/brown has two wires (red and black) and the white plug has 4 wires (blue, blue+orange, black, grey). if you unplug the white plug a-lsd fails instantly when the car starts up. this must be the main controller signal cable. the other plug i am not sure what it does but doesnt seem to have an effect on the system as i drove around with it unplugged and SLIP came on fine. i also noticed next to one of the pumps what looks to be a bleed nippel with its cap/cover missing so i may have lost all of the lsd fluid which could be why it doesnt always work. not entirely sure. im going to get the fluid changed over and try again.

here are some pics of the unit

post-2054-1140930643.jpg

post-2054-1140930759.jpg

Hmm.. what to do.. that is the difficulty..

what are you trying to achieve.. make the A-LSD work with a Power FC or work out a seperate way of running it?..

the only thing I would suggest is possibly replaceing it with a mechanical one?? ;).. would be a waste though however may be your only option..

Short of rigging a stock ECU up purely for running the A-LSD.. do you have any other choices.. - i'm not even sure if you could do that..

Hi All,

A fix has been found for issues with the A-LSD system and the Apexi PowerFC. For details check out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...pic=107656&st=0 on the correct fix. Basically the TPS signal needs to be sent to the A-LSD computer which the Apexi PowerFC (and presumably others) don't do

i think all the computers in the car that use consult operate on the same bus. if thats the case, then if you have time, see if u can measure resistance between those wires that didnt seem to affect anything when disconnected, between those and the wires in the consult plug - see if any are connected to each other (you might need a long wire to extend the reach of the multimeter). if they are then its possible to access it via consult

well thats the funny thing, my abs worked fine despite it not having the TPS signal so go figure. now if i do a burnout for more than 20 seconds ABS and ALSD fail. A quick car reboot fixes this. I presume its some sort of failsafe mode after being in SLIP mode for more than 20 seconds. other than that it works awesome and SLIP's every time without failure

i think all the computers in the car that use consult operate on the same bus. if thats the case, then if you have time, see if u can measure resistance between those wires that didnt seem to affect anything when disconnected, between those and the wires in the consult plug - see if any are connected to each other (you might need a long wire to extend the reach of the multimeter). if they are then its possible to access it via consult

just read the thread ;) page 8 :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...