Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R32 alternator has died and I'd like to replace it with one from a later skyline or a higher rated new one that will be a straight bolt in.

Mine is Hitachi and has 23100-59S01 LR180-705B on it.

I've been told it's 80 amps.

I can't get the parts to reco it.

Are the R33/34 ones compatable?

What other options?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/
Share on other sites

I don't see why not? If you can, have a look at the mounting on an Rb25, and sus out the wiring harness for it.

The two motors are pretty similar in terms of layout, and don't forget that some R33's had 2L motors in them too...

I doubt they'd be any stronger in terms of amperage output though... what "died" about yours?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1979234
Share on other sites

Interested in this also as running a few thermo's does tax the alt. fairly hard.

I have clocked 204,000km's, I am expecting to replace an alt soon.

I've attached pics of my 1992 R32 ALT.

Once warm my alt drops to 13.3volts under full load high rpm. Always check volts once warm as alt's tend to read higher volts when cold. i.e 13.8-14v.

post-382-1140819880.jpg

post-382-1140819888.jpg

post-382-1140819895.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1979249
Share on other sites

My R32 alternator has died and I'd like to replace it with one from a later skyline or a higher rated new one that will be a straight bolt in.

Mine is Hitachi and has 23100-59S01 LR180-705B on it.

I've been told it's 80 amps.

I can't get the parts to reco it.

Are the R33/34 ones compatable?

What other options?

The R33 alternators have a larger eyelet connector for the alternator output (B+) compared to the R32's. Simply means you will need to remove the R32 eyelet connector and use a larger one. I think the field wiring is the same although not 100% sure. I believe they share the same rating (80 amps).

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1979287
Share on other sites

Mine is an 1989, and its the Hitachi 23100-59S01... The one I have stuck to my RB25 has the same part number on it, unless its also an RB20 one.

FAST Lists a 23100-70T16 (newer is 17) for RB25 ?

I don't know what yours is Cubes - I think I did hear somewhere they sometimes came with Mitsu' ones.

I got my old one btw b00ster if you are having trouble sourcing one.. $100 + post. Worked fine on my r32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1980046
Share on other sites

When I had my HR31 ( RB20DET ), the alternator died and I got a new BOSCH one that fitted straight up and worked a treat. It also had an externally removable voltage regulator ( very handy ).

I'll see if I can find the part number.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1981858
Share on other sites

Its probably only the first section of the number that matters. 23100.

We all seem to have the same first section of the number, just different last.

The 23100 is the parts 'group' - in this case the alternator, and its pretty much universal across all Nissan models. The second set of numbers identifies the specific model/year.

Anyway, alternators are pretty much interchangable across the RB2x range. I put an R33 RB25 alternator in my 89 R32 GTR. It has a 90A output. Pretty much bolted straight in with only slight differences in connector locations - no big deal. I also have an RB20DET alternator in my '87 R31 Silh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1981868
Share on other sites

I just fitted a brand new alternator tonight and now get a steady 14.2 volts.

I think my old one may not been working properly for a long time

Ever since I've owned the car it's been plagued with flat batteries and hicas light problems as well as the occasional misfiring.

I only spotted the charging problem after fitting a volt meter.

There was never any warning light. I guess the alternator was just making enough charge to keep the light from coming on but not enough to keep the battery from going flat.

I think low battery voltage might even have been the cause of my full throttle lean out.

I know it can make the fuel pump weak.

Can it affect AFM readings or shorten injector pulses enough to lean it out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-1994548
Share on other sites

Where did you grab the bran new alt. from?

Nissan i remember were stupidly expensive so it must have been an aftermarket matchup?

Nissan quoted $880.

My local auto electrician sourced it from somewhere in Melbourne for $360 plus freight.

It has nissan stamped on it as did the original but no sticker with the nissan part number but apart from that they are identical.

If you want I can try to find out the supplier and their part number but they don't sell to the public.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2007336
Share on other sites

That would be awesome... IF he parts with it. :P

No doubt it will help out all us SAU'ers at one time or another.

The bearings in mine are beginning to rattle a little, so it won't be long.

I have replaced bearings in alternators before. If you can do without the car for a couple of days it's just a matter of pulling the thing apart and pressing the bearings out. I think it cost less than 30 bucks for a front and rear bearing from cbc (one was an odd ball one so took a day to get). While it's apart replace the brushes which are easily gotten from any decent auto electrician and is usually whats at fault when they aren't charging properly. This was a mazda alternator though.

Total cost of under 60 bucks for what is effectively a new alternator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2013134
Share on other sites

Along the lines of what BHDAVE was saying.

Had a Toyota alternator that wasn't charging. Voltage below 12V

I replaced the brushes as they had just worn down so much (van had done 280k km).. cost me $25 to get new brushes in a brush holder. From local auto elec. The brushes are made to wear against the slip rings. You might need to just use ligth sandpaper on the slip rings.. But this worked a treat.

P.S Bearings were fine..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2019936
Share on other sites

My voltage now stays at 13.8-13-9 with a/c ON and audio OFF. Will drop to 13.6-13.7 with audio ON. That's when the misfiring start again on idle. Planing to change the battery to a bigger capacity (60 or 70). Check Alternator charging & seem ok + healthy. U guys reckon its the battery size?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107187-new-alternator/#findComment-2034118
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...