Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know if the washer looking thing inside one of the hoses that goes to the intercooler piping from the wastegate that has a red line marked on it is a boost restrictor thingo or does it help to increase boost etc.

figure that out and then get back to me

RiaZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10730-boost-restrictor-thingo/
Share on other sites

well i was talking to gav with an r32 gtr and he said it did increase but he was also saying on the s platform s13, 14, 15 you need to put a bigger restriction in to get higher boost.

so cos i dont have a boost guage i am using the factory r33 one, yeah i know its shocking well it has a 0 and a +7 marked and when i took the restriction out it climbed to the mark that is between those two so basically 3.5 but when i put the thing back in it went to between the 3.5 and the 7. now it seems obvious that it is producing more boost but the seat of the pants story is different. the car doesnt seem to have that 2 stage factory boost like normal it just gets to the 3.5 and sits there rock steady

someone enlighten me

I can check again when i get a boost guage but if someone has a guage how about you go out right now and pull that thing outta there and come back and let me know

RiaZ

the bleed valve install is a 'no-brainer' (that's why I could do it).

It plumbs staight in with no fuss. Adjust it slowly a notch at a time and give it a bootfull on the freeway in 4th. In fact the freeway is a great place to do the tune. There is no need to exceed the limit as the turbo under load in 4th will get to max boost well before you break the law.

leave it at 10psi and I'm sure you will be more pleased.

what are you guys talking about now.... what is the deal with the restrictor thingo, cmon,

i got a bleed , forget me installing it. I wanna find out if the restrictor is better not there or if it is not a restrictor as such??

something like that

oh and yes the bleed will be going in shortly. i wanna get the dump pipe sorted first and the boost gauge

"not very good with non-stock turbo's though"

id have to disagree there paul. i run a bleeder on my turbo and its flawless. holds 15psi no worries. no spiking and builds smoothly, couldnt ask for anything else. from my experience with a GFB bleed valve theres much better things to spend money on then an EBC (which are quite pricey)

i understand u dont see the top secret supra getting around with a turbosmart bleed valve but for most of our cars bleed valves are decent

Most other people experience spiking with there bleed valves, they aren't designed to compensate for the change in boost levels like an EBC, but some people like them. I used one for a while, didn't like it, but that's my situation.

Non-stock turbo's tend to produce alot more airflow, and the bleed valve doesn't react too well.

See'ya:burnout:

Yeah, external wastegates are a major improvement for proper control. I will have one oneday, but until then I'll keep my EBC, it works nicely, plus has the advantage of being able to change boost in cabin, but agreed they are too expensive.

See'ya:burnout:

bleeder are a poor mans EBC and don't do anywhere near as good a job bringing the boost on quick or holding boost.

If you have the money an ebc is great stock turbo or not. If I had one my times over the quarter would be a tenth or two lower just from the extra response they offer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...