Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As someone posted earlier in the thread, there's acutally a publication on rebuilding RB26's that shows the build process at Tomei's factory. There's really nothing special that they do, no special parts or custom fabrication that would warrant placing them on a pedestal.

You could argue that their experience with building Nissan RB motors gives them an edge, but any decent machine shop/engine builder is able to do the same job.

But then again, the brand name is similar to your nickname here, and alot of people are impressed that the engine is built by Tomei. :cheers:

  • Replies 140
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nick,

Im after a street car that will have enough capacity to spool up twin 400hp turbos without any unreasonable lag? I also want something that will rev to 8-8500 rpm, and have good power down low as well as up top. I think a 2.8 with 8.8:1 static comp will do well both down low and up top. Id be running no more than 1.5-1.6 bar ? I want to keep the stock fuel system (that is, nismo pump, with stock lines). I assume this is possible?

Tommy, you may have have told me this already but can you confirm what your actual goals are with the new engine in terms of power and application (drag or street etc) - What do you realistically want out of it

Nick

Nick,

Im after a street car that will have enough capacity to spool up twin 400hp turbos without any unreasonable lag? I also want something that will rev to 8-8500 rpm, and have good power down low as well as up top. I think a 2.8 with 8.8:1 static comp will do well both down low and up top. Id be running no more than 1.5-1.6 bar ? I want to keep the stock fuel system (that is, nismo pump, with stock lines). I assume this is possible?

If you are looking at something like the GT-RS's or similar then the 2.8 is an excellent choice.

Guest Mashrock

Sounds good to me!! once again!!

i wouldnt mind seeing how it stacks up against similar engines when its all said and done!

and if your going to go the container part of things then go for it! you'll be saving yourself a packet.

p.s. i need some bridgestone re55s 255 40 17, throw a few sets in the container for me :) and perhaps some more 32gtr bits!! :down:

cheers mate..

:O

Cheers guys

Im also curious to see how it will perform.

Pretty sure the block is a standard nissan block

The 34 gearbox may have difficulty, but we'll worry about that later.

Actually, while we are on this topic, does anyone know much about the tomei arms B9046 turbos? (apart from the fact that they are horribly expensive, and are rated at 700ps?)

Also, anything about the power enterprise PE1520TR's also rated at 700ps ?

I have a chart here from tomei in relation to their turbos

eP127_01_arms.gif

Both these turbos are made by IHI. I would think that the nismo Z tune uses the tomei turbos, seeing as half the car is made by tomei :)

I think you have come to your own conclusions and seeing as your going to be in japan it may as well be worth it, if you can afford it....

me personally i see it as buying the Tomei name more than anything, there is plenty of mechanics in australia more than capable of building an engine to that specification, i think most of them have sussed out by now the quirks of building a good RB...

I did once get a quote for an N1 block but my mind fails me as to how much it cost, i know it was an 8 week wait from the land of the rising sun.

PS you can buy a bare N1 Engine assembled (no manifolds or accessorys) for $12,500.

You want me to run an rb30 out of a commodore as my bottom end ?

I do want an engine that can rev. Rev limit on these engines is, SAFELY 8500rpm. I dont like the response of rb25's, and i assume rb30's will be no different.

So what if i save 4.5k and am unhappy with my r34 gtr with a slow revving old arsed rb30 engine :geek:

You simply have no idea what you are talking about do you ?

If you have more money than sence and have no mechanical skills then carry on regardless.

Strange why the Japs are now importing the RB 30 bottom end from OZ as they never had these over there in large quantities.

Top quickest Sklines in OZ -- RB 30 / 26-- not Dyno Cars -- The real deal down the 1/4.

More money than sense ?

I'm gonna let someone else gun you down rather than me. it would be too easy.

Quickest gtr in oz is an rb27 jun/hks ??? (whatever mario ran) in his 33 gtr drag car

Look at keith from the UK. He's running an os giken rb30 engine.

Who is running an rb30/26 ? and running such quick times?

Anyway, ive got more money than sense, so i will buy the tomei. I dont even see how you have justified anything

Hey tommy forget about the tomei/june /hks or whatever just get yourself a red 202 put the rb26 head on throw the pushrods out make an adapter for the sump and then try to sell some to the japs , you make some money on the top ....

You simply have no idea what you are talking about do you ?

If you have more money than sence and have no mechanical skills then carry on regardless.

Strange why the Japs are now importing the RB 30 bottom end from OZ as they never had these over there in large quantities.

Top quickest Sklines in OZ -- RB 30 / 26-- not Dyno Cars -- The real deal down the 1/4.

Are you feeling a bit green or something??

The quickest GTR ("The real deal down the 1/4") runs a big dollar (about 90k from memory) Jun 75.7mm stroke engine. Built in Japan by the Jun Machine shop using Jun parts.

Please tell us the quickest car in Australia running an Rb26/30 combo? I don't know of any that run even low tens. If you are talking about Munro or Wilson's cars...they run Jap Giken 3 litre engines.

What is yout basis for saying that the Japs are importing Rb30s from Aus...it's the first I've heard of it.

I dont think Tommy started this thread to be bagged as he has.

I am guessing no one on these forums has any experience with this motor.I for one would never run a VL bottom end in my R34 GTR.

If he has the cash for such an upgrade,he will end up with a very,very good R34.

There is no doubt he could have a motor built in OZ that would exceed the HP rating of the Tomei unit,580ps is easily achieved for a lot less cash,but looking at the performance of the Mines GTR with a mere 600ps,there is a lot more to it than HP.

I wish I could afford one as well.

You simply have no idea what you are talking about do you ?

If you have more money than sence and have no mechanical skills then carry on regardless.

Strange why the Japs are now importing the RB 30 bottom end from OZ as they never had these over there in large quantities.

Top quickest Sklines in OZ -- RB 30 / 26-- not Dyno Cars -- The real deal down the 1/4.

After reading that well researched statement I think it's you that have 'no idea what you're talking about'. Leave the guy alone. He's asking for advice, not abuse.

You simply have no idea what you are talking about do you ?

If you have more money than sence and have no mechanical skills then carry on regardless.

Strange why the Japs are now importing the RB 30 bottom end from OZ as they never had these over there in large quantities.

Top quickest Sklines in OZ -- RB 30 / 26-- not Dyno Cars -- The real deal down the 1/4.

i think people just like to have a dig at anyone who can afford better parts than them by bagging and saying "oh but these brands/parts are 100 times better for cheaper" when they wish they had the cash to actually attempt such projects.

let him shoot himself i reckon opening his mouth with comments like that :rolleyes:

go and hang in the rb30 fanclub threads exXu1

Edited by CruiseLiner

What do you think of your current GTR as a street car? Doesnt it have 300odd rwkws?

Im all for you bolting in whatever engine you like...but chasing the power you are after for a street car, and having to spend all that money on making it driveable responsive???? Its a lot power considerign you will have so much grunt you wont be able to even plant it in 2nd and rev it out :rolleyes:

Is it a good idea to grab the R34, wait for HKS to release these GT-ZZ and throw them on to see how the thing goes? God knwos the R34 RB26 seems a lot more durable then earluer RB26s.

What do Tomei do in the way of porting, head work? Id consider stickign with std crank and rods but spending the money on the head!?!?!?

i think people just like to have a dig at anyone who can afford better parts than them by bagging and saying "oh but these brands/parts are 100 times better for cheaper" when they wish they had the cash to actually attempt such projects.

let him shoot himself i reckon opening his mouth with comments like that :rolleyes:

go and hang in the rb30 fanclub threads exXu1

HAHAHAHAHAH! Well said!

He's running an os giken rb30 engine.

Speaking of which, would this not also be worth consideration? Billet crank, reuse your engine block, forged this that and everything else. IIRC, OS-G claims the engine can be revved (with appropriate parts, prep, etc) to about 9,000 RPM so its certainly no slouch.

Also, what are you going to back on to the engine? If ylwgtr's experience is anything to go by, a stock R34 GT-R box isn't going to last very long...

Speaking of which, would this not also be worth consideration? Billet crank, reuse your engine block, forged this that and everything else. IIRC, OS-G claims the engine can be revved (with appropriate parts, prep, etc) to about 9,000 RPM so its certainly no slouch.

Also, what are you going to back on to the engine? If ylwgtr's experience is anything to go by, a stock R34 GT-R box isn't going to last very long...

Hey mate

I looked at the os option, and at 1.5 million yen for the bottom end, and the cylinder head i dont quite know if its worth it. At the end of the day, i really dont want to do any engine assembly work, and having the os head built here will be fairly costly. There is no oil pump or sump with that kit ? I would be lookinig at a good 25-30k for it, and i dont think i can justify that much in terms of cost JUST for an engine

I dont want to think about the 34 gearbox. if it breaks it breaks. Will do my best not to. Im not planning on having more than 650-700hp, and i think thats achievable on this motor with decent response

Hey mate

I looked at the os option, and at 1.5 million yen for the bottom end, and the cylinder head i dont quite know if its worth it. At the end of the day, i really dont want to do any engine assembly work, and having the os head built here will be fairly costly. There is no oil pump or sump with that kit ? I would be lookinig at a good 25-30k for it, and i dont think i can justify that much in terms of cost JUST for an engine

That makes a lot of sense. I mean you're going to have to drop a lot of coin on assembly with the OSG, plus headwork and ancilliaries. Its certainly not a drop in solution like the Tomei.

I dont want to think about the 34 gearbox. if it breaks it breaks. Will do my best not to. Im not planning on having more than 650-700hp, and i think thats achievable on this motor with decent response

I'd start saving for a dog box :rolleyes: Nobody seems to have a particularly high opinion of the getrag box and its one expensive muthertrucker to fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...