Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Some interesting points being made & pleanty to think about.

I think you'll find as far as some being quiet on the outside but loud inside it comes down to the quality of the resonator being used. I really hate the vibrational humm of the standard exhaust from inside when at low revs under load, but it does still have a fairly loud idle from the outside too, but not as much when you rev it.

As far as a pod filter making more noise is concerned, I'm not getting 1 for that exact reason. I've got an Apexi high flow panel filter on order that should do just as good a job. Many people have already said and proved for themselves on a dyno that all a pod is going to do is make more noise. So an exhaust that isn't too loud should still be heard clearly.

A far as the Kakimoto exhausts are concerned I will be looking carefully. I have noted with a few brands now that they offer various levels of loudness with their exhaust depending on what it is to be used for. Anything which you have to fit a restrictive silencer to keep the noise level down will not be on my shopping list that's for sure.

I appreciate the the input guys.

Out of interest.. where is the best place to get a Kakimoto from?..

I'm not quite looking at buying yet.. but further down the line it's definately something I wouldn't mind getting..

Yeah I went to search last night for them on the net & turned up nothing. Everything else I've looked up I've generally been able to find at least 1 local seller.

So I'd like to ask now if anyone knows of some places that I can get Fujitsubo & Kakimoto exhausts to let me know. I did find one company called top spec, but they've botched their site up as it has prices but not what car they suit! I'm also looking at the Trust systems with increasing interest & maybe HKS though I'm a bit wary of the quality of those, not sure what they'd be like.

FUJITSUBO EXHAUSTS

http://www.musecret.com.au/

Just go to PARTS -> EXHAUST (no prices so you'd have to contact them)

Used Kakimoto

http://www.upimports.com.au/UPI_Parts/exhaust1.php (r33)

http://www.upimports.com.au/UPI_Parts/exhaust2.php (r32)

Not sure where you can buy Kakimoto exhausts new.

Electro- why are you wary of the quality of a HKS exhaust??

Cheers mate. Much appreciated

I am a bit wary because HKS is one of those brands who get every 1 else to make stuff for them & put their name on it. Who knows where it's made & how good it is. Having said that I haven't actually seen 1 so I can't cancel them out. I did see a Blitz system in Autobahn on display only a few weeks back & the welds on that were shite. They had a Drift exhaust on display that was cheaper & better made. So it pays to watch some of these big brands

Edited by Electro

Thanks man I'm going to PM him now.

I also emailed MU secret, as well as this Top Spec Site I found but haven't heard back from either yet.

Will keep people posted.

Also to add more complication I've found another brand, Rein Hard. Anyone with any comments about these exhausts would be greatly appreciated.

Edited by Electro

hey mate,

I got a 2nd hand Apexi N1 exhuast about a year ago, and in my opinion its one of the best exhusts for R33's around. I got plenty of mates who has R33's with other branded exhuasts but for performance and stealth its hard to go past the N1. Its pretty quite until u hit high RPM's and made a massive difference in power after i put it in. the exhuast note is a low rumbeling sound you can feel rather then hear, and pretty quite when your not pushing it hard. im just in the process of looking for a suitable front/dump pipes and also a high flow cat to get a little more out of it.

my 2 cents.

Din.

PS: i paid 500 for the exhuast on the forums. My theory was id rather get a good reputable jap brand 2nd hand rather then get a cheap new one.

Thanks for that input, some deacent info there.

I have seen the Apexi N1 cat backs for about $750 + frieght brand new, so they're not exactly going to break the bank.

Just a couple quick questions:

Is the N1 an angle or straight out exhaust?

How rigid does it sit when fitted & does it hang low?

post-2347-1142339271.jpgpost-2347-1142339408.jpg

Thanks for that input, some deacent info there.

I have seen the Apexi N1 cat backs for about $750 + frieght brand new, so they're not exactly going to break the bank.

Just a couple quick questions:

Is the N1 an angle or straight out exhaust?

How rigid does it sit when fitted & does it hang low?

its on a slight angle, it sits pretty nice and tight and dont hang low and you wont have any scraping issues unless your car is dumped to the max.

Dont know if these pics would help.

Cheers, that's some good pic's. Hopefully if people keep posting stuff like that many people will be able to make a decision about what exhaust they will go for. I'm still undecided, but that was a great help, thanks

Ok I've really looked a bit harder at the Apexi system & while it may be quiet, it's definantely not the look I'm going for. Like I've said previously I would like a good quality system that's not angled & would like twin pipe if I can get 1 worth having.

I still have heard nothing back from either Top spec or MU Secret about fujitsubo exhaust, which I thought was a bit weak & I have seldom found a Kakimoto exhaust for an R33 either.

I don't know enough about Greddy/Trust or HKS exhausts to rule them out either, but I'm leaning towards the Fujitsubo or a custom system if I can't get a bolt on that I'm happy with. I've also seen another brand called Rein Hard just to add extra confusion, which sells a Titanium twin pipe setup for $975 which is supposedly 'Silent'. Though I can't be sure on that 1.

Just to clarify I'm after a system that makes a bit of noise at mid to top end, without too much bass. I want enough that you can definantely hear it when you put ur foot down, but so it's just a nice burble that you can hear only with the windows down when cruising.... Or as close a compromise to that as possible.

Any comments on the power gains people got from their bolt on's/custom systems would also be appreciated. I'd like to get as much info on here as possible for future referece of others too.

Thanks for the input so far guys

Edited by Electro

Hey Electro,

I'm still looking for an exhaust for my R33 as well, I found out that BT Revolution, a business trader on these very forums can source Kakimoto systems - the one I'm looking at that sounds like it may also suit your requirements..it's a Kakimoto.R cat-back, they're not cheap but apparently the quality, quiet but awesome sound and performance gain make it worth the cost.

Check out his thread for details:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...T&f=141&t=82023

Hey mate - how did you go?

I'm in the same position with you. Got a stock R34. BATMBL dump + front (have had one on my R33 for 2 years and it's been good), maybe the CATCO large cat (non-stainless) and perhaps the Fujitsubo Legalis from BT Rev. A friend has that Fujitsubo exhaust and the cars got good power and it's nice and quiet. Not angled either which is nice.

All up though looks like I might be getting close to $2k after fitting... argh

Yeah I can't see myself getting out of it for much under 2 grand. Though I will be fitting the system myself unless I go full custom. Mr BT-Racing seems to have no knowledge of a twin Fujitsubo system so I may be up the creek there.

Two other options I've got is a Rein hard exhaust, or a full custom system by exhaust technology. I'm getting fussier as to what I want as I know I won't be happy if I get something else that I don't like the look of.

Hey Electro, I'm still in the same position as you...I just don't want to compromise on my original ideas, so it looks like my exhaust is going to cost just over 2k which is going to hurt the wallet big time!!

(still thinking BATMBL front/dump & 'metal' cat with Kakimoto.R catback from BT-Revolution)

FYI - I heard the twin pipe Reinhards are pretty damn loud without the tail-pipe silencers in, and they spoil the look of the exhaust IMO.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...