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Have an R32 GTR with around 330kw atw and want to make it more like my evo which by comparison is heaps easier and safer to drive. At the moment the skyline isn't very predictable what with the 4wd cutting in very sudden and late. I've heard of ppl modding the sensors to create a permanent 60/40 split. Anyone got any info on how to do this? and will it be safe for the clutch/gearbox?

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it would kill your transfer case after a while i think. If you get an aftermarket torque splitter, you can dial in 40/60 if you wanted it that way. I only ever put in 20/80 but that was just to see how it worked. Doesn't Duncan's attessa controller work like that? I didnt read through the whole thing, too many pages! hah

Does anyone else have problems with the rear end trying to step out when on wide open throttle in a straight line, dry road?

I'm pushing 330awkw and for the first few km's my torque gauge will show up to about 10-20% to the front but after everything has warmed up (bout 5km) it never ever moves from rwd. That's with tein suspension and very very worn 255 tyres.

The only time apart from the first few km that my torque gauge moves is going up the gutter of my driveway and in the wet when i'm hammering it.

Have an R32 GTR with around 330kw atw and want to make it more like my evo which by comparison is heaps easier and safer to drive. At the moment the skyline isn't very predictable what with the 4wd cutting in very sudden and late. I've heard of ppl modding the sensors to create a permanent 60/40 split. Anyone got any info on how to do this? and will it be safe for the clutch/gearbox?

have u got a hicas lock bar? this make em alot more predictable. I think I saw some atessa controllers for sale in the group buy section.

most ATTESA controllers will allow you to set the maximum torque split, not the minimum torque split, which is what you want to do, effectively forcing a 50/50 torque split 100% of the time.

The ATTESA controller works off simple signals, so find the one that indicates traction loss at the rear wheels, then feed the ATTESA controller that signal constantly, and you'll have permanent AWD.

I can't imagine it being too healthy on the car's drivetrain though, as an Evo is designed to be a permanent AWD, wheras the GTR is a switchable RWD to AWD system. System developed using millions of dollars, vs $100 ATTESA controller :pinch:

330kw atw and it steps out in a straight line? Are you talking about launching hard in 1st gear? or what gear?

Mines not as bad as you make it out to be. Does your Evo have 330kw atw? :cheers: Maybe thats your problem :D

I agree with funky.

jimbob

i would put money down that your 4wd system is not operating correctly!

i had the same problem(r32gtr) with traction in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear accelerating in a straightline it would step out or just bounce of the limiter, that was with approx 350 kw's @ 4 wheels.

i have more power now and no traction issues in a straight line.

it can be a number of things wrong , pm me if you would like some ideas.

cheers russ

btw man after my own heart, i have an evo9 too, mine is silver.

Edited by giant
  • 1 month later...

I understand that the Skyline transfer case is not intended to send torque to the front for more than 12 to 18 seconds at a time. This is not a rally car like the WRX, but a track car. (If you break traction for more than 15 seconds you've got other issues!)

The multiplate wet clutch controlled by the ATTESA computer generates heat and will damage itself if it's working all the time.

Cheers,

Dan

Have an R32 GTR with around 330kw atw and want to make it more like my evo which by comparison is heaps easier and safer to drive. At the moment the skyline isn't very predictable what with the 4wd cutting in very sudden and late. I've heard of ppl modding the sensors to create a permanent 60/40 split. Anyone got any info on how to do this? and will it be safe for the clutch/gearbox?

This isnt the best idea but works well, put higher profile tyres on the front and it will be constantly showing about 10-15 on the torque split.

I noticed this after drifting in rear wheel drive mode making the tyres bald then putting awd back on, it stays constant awd...lol...

Do that in reverse and the awd will almost never come on with higher profile tyres on the back until big wheel spin..

Of the different electronic torque split controllers out there, the one i decided to go with was the Field torque controller. It simply allows you to adjust the speed that the ATTESSA system works, it doesnt simply over ride or replace it. You can adjust the electrical signal to the ecu to enable it to react more to your likeing, and can be set up to make the 4wd come in much sooner, rather than it running 4wd all the time.

What exactly does the HKS ETC and EDA do then?

The ETC allows you to dial in different front torque splits. It will be CONSTANT until you change it. For instance you can run 20/80 all day long if you want. It goes from 0 to 50 but 50 is not recommended.

EDA is an add on that allows you to choose what torque split you want til you hit a desired speed and it goes straight to RWD mode (hence the 'drag' part of the name)

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