Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just wondering if anyone has recommendations for places to get some machining done, either in Sydney or Wollongong. I need to get the surfaces machined on my exhaust manifolds and the tongue removed on these Greddy/Trust split front/dumps....

Speaking of which, those of you who have used the Greddy/Trust extension pipes with turbos that already have a exhaust/wastegate split, how much did you have taken off?

Cheers,

Lucien.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107755-machine-shop-recommendations/
Share on other sites

lol

I had this thought when looking at the 34 N1s next to some seperated dumps. as your SS have the same exhaust housing as the 34 N1s with the integrated seperator I would take it all off.

lol

I had this thought when looking at the 34 N1s next to some seperated dumps. as your SS have the same exhaust housing as the 34 N1s with the integrated seperator I would take it all off.

Yes, I was thinking just to have the tongue machined flat. However, looking at the exhaust housing on the HKS's, the split finishes about 5mm from the top. I was just wondering (out loud) if its worth leaving a mm or two of the tongue sticking out of the front pipes for a closer fit. Obvious issue is that the metal is going to expand when its (very) hot...

yes, i thought about that too, but i think it's fine (and safer) to leave that little gap.

Yup, again, agreed, but thought I would throw it out there in case some wisen old sage knew better. I wonder how disruptive to flow having that gap will be? It interesting to note that there is a gap of about 1-2cm in the divider at one end on the exhaust housing to allow gasses to move from the exhaust wheel side to the wastegate side.

SW20-GT: Thanks tosh, I will call them tomorrow.

If anyone has any other recommendations, fire away.

Depends on the turbos you have. If you have Hks GTSS's then just machine the lot out, thats what i did . I must warn you they are a bastard to fit on .... and you cant fit the turbo brackets on them either .

Depends on the turbos you have. If you have Hks GTSS's then just machine the lot out, thats what i did . I must warn you they are a bastard to fit on .... and you cant fit the turbo brackets on them either .

Yup, they are GT-SSs. I assume you mean have the tongue machined off the dump/front as opposed to machining out the exhaust cover.

I'd be interested to hear anything else you have to say about installing the GT-SSs (I was going to post a question about it anyway). By turbo brackets, I assume you mean the turbo support braces/brackets? Do the foul on something, or just not fit period? Any solutions/recommendations (or any other thoughts)?

Thanks :rolleyes:

Yup, they are GT-SSs. I assume you mean have the tongue machined off the dump/front as opposed to machining out the exhaust cover.

I'd be interested to hear anything else you have to say about installing the GT-SSs (I was going to post a question about it anyway). By turbo brackets, I assume you mean the turbo support braces/brackets? Do the foul on something, or just not fit period? Any solutions/recommendations (or any other thoughts)?

Thanks :P

I assume you have a 32 gtr. If you are going to fit them on the car i dont know how hard it is but it wont be easy . I have fitted turbos many times on a gtr with engine in the car but never thses bastard dumps ( they are a bastard let me tell you ) . I fitted them on a 34 gtr but with engine off the car and with gtss turbos all i did was machine off the tongue of the dumps flat then bolted them on the turbos . When i tried to assemble the engine the o2 censor ( rear dump) was in the way of the coolant and vacium tubes so i had to mod the tubes to fit them on !! Depending on where your rear dump o2 bung is you may have to do the same too .

If you have a good look at your dumps you will see there is no place to bolt the turbo support brackets and unless you go to a lot of trouble to make some different bracket you cant bolt them on .

The best solution ? Sell them and use HKS dumps , they are a direct bolt on job and eveything fits on .

The other thing you will find is :The rear dump ( that bastard again ) will be touching your air cond discharge hose, if you leave it on it will melt it in about 5 minutes so make sure you remove it and replace it with a copper tube ( a bastard of a job on the car after you find out it touches ) so do it while the turbos are off the car and you have plenty room there .

The only advantage with these dumps, the front pipes are very easy to fit on !!

If you need to know anything else feel free to p.m.

Have you talked to Nath about the machining? He can help you out, he has everything in house

No, it never crossed my mind he did this sort of thing in house? Thanks for the tip. I'll get on to all the recommended places on Monday; got distracted today :D

  • 1 month later...
I assume you have a 32 gtr. If you are going to fit them on the car i dont know how hard it is but it wont be easy . I have fitted turbos many times on a gtr with engine in the car but never thses bastard dumps ( they are a bastard let me tell you ) . I fitted them on a 34 gtr but with engine off the car and with gtss turbos all i did was machine off the tongue of the dumps flat then bolted them on the turbos . When i tried to assemble the engine the o2 censor ( rear dump) was in the way of the coolant and vacium tubes so i had to mod the tubes to fit them on !! Depending on where your rear dump o2 bung is you may have to do the same too .

If you have a good look at your dumps you will see there is no place to bolt the turbo support brackets and unless you go to a lot of trouble to make some different bracket you cant bolt them on .

The best solution ? Sell them and use HKS dumps , they are a direct bolt on job and eveything fits on .

The other thing you will find is :The rear dump ( that bastard again ) will be touching your air cond discharge hose, if you leave it on it will melt it in about 5 minutes so make sure you remove it and replace it with a copper tube ( a bastard of a job on the car after you find out it touches ) so do it while the turbos are off the car and you have plenty room there .

The only advantage with these dumps, the front pipes are very easy to fit on !!

If you need to know anything else feel free to p.m.

Just for those who are searching for info on the above, I have posted a reply here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=2124191

APM in Albion Park seem to do some pretty great work.

In case you didn't see in the post I linked to above, thanks for the recommendation to Oak Flats Muffler Men. 4PM on the day the Queen's birthday and they got the job done a treat :O

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...