Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK before everyone screams out do a search or whatever; please take 5minutes to read what I'm asking... I've done the searches and there is absolutely nothing on SAU regarding this (especially the HKS item).

Basically, I've hit a barrier on my upgrades path - the stock ECU + SAFC2 combination just not pulling its weight and is restricting my current setup to a lowly 198.2rwkw. All the factory protection systems kick in and "terminate" any dyno runs we attempt (fuel cut, rich and retard systems etc. etc.)

I have sussed out 3 systems that will be able to fix this problem and provide me with much better tuning capabilities than what I have right now. At the end of the day it's not going to be 100% effective, but it'll be close. The three on my mind now are ITS from Unigroup, Haltech e11v2, or the new HKS F-Con Is.

Question: Which one should I go for? (below are some Pros and Cons)

* ITS I've never really heard of and its never gone on a 34GTT before - pretty much experimental work here.

* ITS is relatively cheaper though for the unit, install and tune (from their website)

* Haltech will work after wiring it up in "piggy back" mode, using all signals barr the gear change signal

* Haltech is the most expensive of the three for unit, install and tune

* Haltech has been developed in Australia, heaps of technical support and its upgradeable

* Haltech system will remove need for AFM, existing EBC.

* HKS item is brand new and largely un-tested/used in the Australian import scene

* HKS Japan advertises that it will work on the R34GTT (as per their website)

* HKS is slightly cheaper than the Haltech when everything is installed and tuned.

* HKS unit I dare say will have to be "learnt" by the tuner as it is a new system

Any opinions or ideas would be much appreciated... looking at making a decision within the next week or so, want to put my money somewhere so I max out the "bang for buck" factor :)

Cheers

Stan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/107854-which-ecu-to-get-r34-gt-t-tiptronic/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

You got more power because you had a full exhaust and a bigger turbo :) I would've broken 210rwkw if I had the rest of my exhaust on the car - damn people taking so long to make it!

Well the e11v2 has been given quite a big rep amongst the high HP auto boys... they said that they modify the loom so it's hooked up "piggy back" style - leaving only the gearbox signal intact.

I'm still tossing the options around though...

hey stan

Tom at bd4's has been specialising in HKS fcon V & S for years

dont think at all that if you go down there that he will have to "learn" anything..

and i pressume u added the cost of the harness in the price of the fcon?

also PM me if your genuinely intrested in a HKS fcon V, may be able to help you out..

Hehe, shhh.... it's a secret that I didn't have a full exhaust on the day :) Just to say, 200rwkw is possible without a full exhaust >_< (but not reccomended, it's the expensive way to do it)

Next step is to sort out exhaust (once it's fabricated), injectors and ECU. Then we tune for 240-250rwkw using the stock box. By this time I'll have access to a few gearbox options and do the transplant. Following that I'll be tuning for 270-280rwkw

The rest of the rwkw will have to be made up for using engine work (I hear cams make a big diffrence :huh:

Thanks John... Yeah, the cost for the HKS system will be about $1,800 all up (fully optioned) - this is an at-cost price.

The F-Con V, that will be different to the F-Con Is right? The only reason I'm considering the HKS system is because HKS actually says it works on autos :D

Well that rules that one out :) I need the piggy back option otherwise my gearbox shits itself.

The other option is to go a fully manualized auto box - then we could run all sorts of ECUs (but that is cheating)

Stan - make sure that you double check that it works on R34 GT-T autos..

Maybe get someone who can read Japanese to check the HKS site..

Or find out if anyone else is running one.. Just looking at the site myself, yeah.. it says "A/T" but.. that doesn't mean it can run all of them..

HKS sounds like a good choice otherwise..

DAMNIT.. google translate SUCKS ass..

Looking at this page in babelfish - it says R34 RB25DET - M/T..

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...on_harness.html

so.. double check it..

for anyone looking at a translated page on the FCON-V..

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...fcon_v_pro.html

FCON normal..

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...%2ffcon_is.html

Edited by Links

MAF (what u currently have) is better than MAP.

MAF measures air volume coming in and tells the ECU

MAP measures air pressues and gusses amount of air coming and tells ECU. The MAF is better for street cruising where pressure is jack all but varying amount of air coming in changes quickly and constantly. Also when on WOT the MAP will always say X amount of air and never increase as its reading boost pressure (fixed by your boost controller) and then telling ECU XYZ amount of air. Whereas MAF will always show an increasing amount of air coming in.

This basically means MAF will be more accurate on the say 20x20 map grid as it can move around very freely based on air coming in and always show an increase (ie: use the map resolution you have).

You should read up on how they both work to understand as it will affect how the car runs and drives. You should also look for an ECU with closed loop feedback (fuel economy) and knock sensor support

MAF (commonly known as AFM or Airflow Meter)

mass air flow sensor

MAP

mass air pressure sensor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...