Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ye it has a oem style carbon bonnet..

axis hiro 19x9.5 wheels (theyre a U.S forged lightweight wheel, HUGE in the U.S)

it has that stance coz i wound the c/o up to get it on n off the truck without touching anything, dont worry, its gonna be slammed :P

Edited by MR MAD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108007-delete/#findComment-1992682
Share on other sites

custome colour, the wheels are 3500 with kumho tyres... i got john at tempe to bring them over for me.

they are 25 offset, no way id be able to put a 20mm spacer.. i like it as it is, coz ill be tuckin it wen the cars done :D

ill think about getting some 10mm ones tho, bolt on ones should do the trick ye? never used spacers so i dunno lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108007-delete/#findComment-1994273
Share on other sites

custome colour, the wheels are 3500 with kumho tyres... i got john at tempe to bring them over for me.

they are 25 offset, no way id be able to put a 20mm spacer.. i like it as it is, coz ill be tuckin it wen the cars done :D

ill think about getting some 10mm ones tho, bolt on ones should do the trick ye? never used spacers so i dunno lol

Just looking at the pic 3/4 view from above, it seems like the wheels are a fair way in, but I could be wrong. I've got 25mm spacers on th FRONT of my car (hehehe Japanese stylez) just to get the wheels sitting right, so 10mm might do the trick. It looks sweet and well done on the EB aero mirrors :)

3 things I reckon every GT-R should: 1) get those rims flush with the bodywork, 2) forget about chrome anything 3) don't lower it *too* much.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108007-delete/#findComment-1994296
Share on other sites

nah i wont lower it too much but it has to be over the tyre... its jus me... i can fit my finger in between the guard n the tyre... theres maybe like 15mm clearance max before it will touch.. im gettin the spacers for nothing so no harm in trying ah?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/108007-delete/#findComment-1994304
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...