Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i was wondering if anyone knew of any hassles or precautions that may occur when fitting a rb25 to r32 gts4 , and any idea's or comments about engineers cert for it("does it need it"). also is it worth wild over looking the 26 because of cost and oppting for the 25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109142-r32-rb25-help-plz/
Share on other sites

PM Blind Elk...did the same thing you are considering, champ bloke who wont lead you astray with BS if he doesnt know...unlike me, who will tell you RB25s suck....p0pl who have put an RB25 in an R32 are probably the same ppl that piss all over the seat of the public toilets...i hate those guys :P

...p0pl who have put an RB25 in an R32 are probably the same ppl that piss all over the seat of the public toilets...i hate those guys :)
Oi. I represent those remarks :P

carl, put a RB25DET in, it will almost beat hands down a modded RB20DET. My RB20DET punched a whopping 115 kW through all 4; the RB25DET, running aftermarket ECU and crap 95 octane (Oz octane) and 10psi pushed 180 out through all 4 wheels. I figure that's close to a stock GT-R, and beats the crap out of those 5 litre lumps of cast iron V8 push-rod crap that can't even push that off the flywheel.

Oi. I represent those remarks :/

carl, put a RB25DET in, it will almost beat hands down a modded RB20DET.

Yeh yeh yeh...we know...But in my small galaxy the hot girls dont think they could ever be so lucky as to land a guy like me, thats the reason they ignore me...and the RB20 is god because i f i blow it up its $600 :D

Yeh yeh yeh...we know...But in my small galaxy the hot girls dont think they could ever be so lucky as to land a guy like me, thats the reason they ignore me...and the RB20 is god because i f i blow it up its $600 :D

Sounds like the planet where i live, but if my bottom end blows, its $100 :/

bottom end might be $100, but the adapter is $450 minimum.

mods to make it work on 4wd = another couple of hundred.

mods to the vvt head to make the vvt work = dollars.

oil restrictors to the head = small dollars

mods to engine mounts = more dollars.

new turbo due to 3L sucking your current turbo dry at idle = $1900 minimum.

to make use of this turbo and capacity, you'd want injectors, fuel pump and new tune = many more hundreds.

if you don't have the PFC already to run all this = $1000

New AFM to make use of all these goodies during the tune = $300 +

as much has I hate to say it, my rb30 dreaming days are over for the gts4.

I'm stuck with the ROYb20det.. :/

I've worked out I should be able to get to a REAL goal of about 200rwkw with about $4K and still have a drivable road car without TOO much extra lag.

I'll save my rb30 dreams for the future.. if I can be bothered.

so ROY - can I come back to the clan?

so ROY - can I come back to the clan?

Im not sure really, you seem for too sensible to become a blibbering RB20 POWAH idiot :no:

WHne im back in Syd next, take my car for a spin...im betting it will convince you to spend the extra 6 months spreading the cost of the RB309 over a longer period. I love my cars...its ace...but if you want grunty mid it just doesnt do the job

where do i get another rb20 for 600 bucks i just bought the rb30 and was gonna do the goods but i dont want to spend that dosh as my engine is lossing oil presure and has a wine at 1200 rpm and sounds like its coming from the 1st cam bearing (help)

where do i get another rb20 for 600 bucks i just bought the rb30 and was gonna do the goods but i dont want to spend that dosh as my engine is lossing oil presure and has a wine at 1200 rpm and sounds like its coming from the 1st cam bearing (help)
If you're in Melbourne, you bring a trailer and $600 round to my place - I still have the RB20 that I took out of the R32.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...