Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I put on some r32 discs and calipers onto my s13. I currently have the ca18det brake master cylinder and its crap. The pedal is wayyyy to spongy.

My question is, which is a better upgrade, the r32 rb20det or s13 sr20det master cylinder???

Do i need to change the brake booster as well???

Thanks,

Joh

Edited by joh21m
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/
Share on other sites

have you bleed the brakes correctly?

i have plenty of friends who have used stock s13/sr20det master cylinder w/ r32 and r33 brakes with no problems, but sr20det master cyl is better than ca18det. Re-bleed the brakes and see if you still have trouble...

I'd suggest using an sr20det master or rb20det (if it bolts up easily). Your problem is most likely due to bleeding brakes, but i'd play it safe and use the sr master

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2013502
Share on other sites

Due to the increased volume of fluid being moved and the altered bias as a result of the caliper change i'd be swapping the master.

If you have swapped on r33 brakes all round then a 32/33 gtst master is the go. If you have maintained the s13 rear brakes then look at an s14 master as it has the 4 pot front, single pot rear combo from factory.

That way you have a master that can cope with the changed brakes for both volume of fluid moved and bias.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2014560
Share on other sites

have you bleed the brakes correctly?

i have plenty of friends who have used stock s13/sr20det master cylinder w/ r32 and r33 brakes with no problems, but sr20det master cyl is better than ca18det. Re-bleed the brakes and see if you still have trouble...

I'd suggest using an sr20det master or rb20det (if it bolts up easily). Your problem is most likely due to bleeding brakes, but i'd play it safe and use the sr master

yeh i've got the ca18det master cylinder and it sucks... i've bled the brakes and it didnt help...

thanks for the info!

Joh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2015418
Share on other sites

i don't think brake booster is as important as master cylinder, however i suggest you consult an expert because i don't know for sure.

All the brake booster does is use vacuum from the car's engine to multiply the force on the master cylinder, it's just a diaphragm and a valve, so i don't think it really matters, but someone might want to confirm this...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2015723
Share on other sites

Just from when I pick my master up, they said that the late model S13 was the same as the R32 gtst. Here is some info for you. on the side it will say BM then a 2 didgit no 33, 44, 50, 57 indicating bore size. Bigger no. is bigger bore. I got one from a S13 late model Its BM 44. Supposidly the same as a R32 gtst. Mine should be in by the weekend and I will let you know the outcome. I have a 300zx ABS model in mine at the moment but its only a two port (one port for the front and one for the rear) the new one is smaller bore size but has 3 ports. If you dont have ABS then you will need a 3 port non ABS master. hope that makes sence

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2016589
Share on other sites

Just from when I pick my master up, they said that the late model S13 was the same as the R32 gtst. Here is some info for you. on the side it will say BM then a 2 didgit no 33, 44, 50, 57 indicating bore size. Bigger no. is bigger bore. I got one from a S13 late model Its BM 44. Supposidly the same as a R32 gtst. Mine should be in by the weekend and I will let you know the outcome. I have a 300zx ABS model in mine at the moment but its only a two port (one port for the front and one for the rear) the new one is smaller bore size but has 3 ports. If you dont have ABS then you will need a 3 port non ABS master. hope that makes sence

wow thanks heaps for that info...the guy who is sending me the m. cylinder said the code on the side was BM44...

yeh let us know how it goes, do you have a s13 with the r32 brakes up front also???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2019464
Share on other sites

the most likely explanation of your problem, is that the brakes haven't been bleed properly.

Make sure you are using the correct procedure to bleed the brakes, sometimes they can be a bitch because air bubbles can get stuck in the lines, just make sure you do it in the correct order and keep pumping pedal until no bubbles come out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2030330
Share on other sites

Try the bleed again, start with the longest line first passenger rear then driver rear, then passenger front then driver front.

Are you useing two people to bleed it???? 3-4 pumps then hold foot on the floor then close the nipple. then return the pedal to normal. then Start again. Normally will take a couple of bottles to flush a whole system.

Also have a look at your brake booster, is it a double diaphram. just to see, if it has two distinct round cylinders, rather than just the one. if its two then its a double diaphram, I dont know if that will influence anything though.

Also if you dont want the master let me know I may have someone willing to buy it from u.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2030468
Share on other sites

i had this problem once, you can damage the the master by incorrecting bleeding, like pumping it too hard.

the way i bleed, is from the furthest to the master and work your way, three pumps. and bleed, three pumps and bleed ect.. But not super hard thats how you damage, you can break the seal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2030740
Share on other sites

i had this problem once, you can damage the the master by incorrecting bleeding, like pumping it too hard.

the way i bleed, is from the furthest to the master and work your way, three pumps. and bleed, three pumps and bleed ect.. But not super hard thats how you damage, you can break the seal.

how do i know if the master cylinder is damaged???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109205-r32-vs-s13/#findComment-2031048
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...