Jump to content
SAU Community

************gtr 34 V Spec*****************


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

We are sort of saying the same thing, exept you are taking the auction sheet as bible. If you buy a 34 NOW with auction sheets saying 50000'ks and be the first owner in Australia and pay $60-65000 do you really think it would compare to a car that has been here for a while and had services etc You just said you would buy that 99 model with 30000 on the clock if it had side air bags for $69k..I am a bit confused I guess. I don't really know but it is probably a fresh import that came over with 30000 on the clock...what did it really have .99 model works out to about 4000 k's a year, also as an example, I bought an 89 GTR with 60000k's (on auction sheet)..It was rebuilt here in australia and it was worn as hell. Another thing also too is the purchase of snow areas of Japan, in the cold and snowy towns they use Salt to defrost there roads so again another issue. I have had 3 GTR's and a GTST so far and have had less issues with ones I have bought from here. Fair enough to get a cheaper car 'mail order', but budget for other stuff too.

Good luck.

If you are going to import a GTR, you can also do a KM check through some Japan department - an importer told me, which is 100% legit.

There is another GTR for sale today with 14km on a 7 year old import - guess what? No papers, Wonder why.....

"ricknismo" if you can track down your auction papers, and put it on your carsales add - it will make it alot easier to sell - I am sure people who are interested have asked you this? Am I right?

By saving 15K you have enogh cash to buy a new gearbox or engine if needed or both - still cheaper than most GTR's for sale now.

Of the cars with auction papers, the tampering has been reduced considerably - to most people the papers are a "bible" - what else can you use?

Actually your the first person that has ever asked, for any of my cars. Most of them get the jist that I look after them and own them for a while.

Here's some thing that was previously said to me:

Hi,

A genuine high grade (4.5 - 5) R34 GTR V SPEC with less than 30,000 Klms on the clock sells on average for 4,500,000 yen at auction in Japan - that's $53,000 car cost in Japan. Add to this all the other associated import costs (shipping, 10% customs duty, 10% gst, compliance etc etc ) and the price these cars are being advertised for in Australia just don't add up!!!

I just paid 4,850,000 yen for a 1999 V SPEC grade 4.5 with genuine 26,000 Klms.

This car ended up low $80,000 on road.

"Ricknismo"

I may be the only one thats asks, because I am genuinly looking for one. You said yourself you have had people turn up and disapear after they have gone 4 a quick spin, I don't think they really care if you have the papers or not.

FROM IMPORTER

Hi Chris

just quickly looking at recent auction prices i would say 3.8 to 4.2 million fob for car you want which calculates to $62.500 to $68.500 landed and complied @86 yen exchange rate

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 33,000km blue 45BA 4,095,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE GTR V-SPECIAL Manual 6 Speed 26,000km purple ¶4 4,565,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

4,500,000 fob = 52K (A 1999 model with under 30 GEN. on the clock)

+ 10% = 57,200

+10% = 62,620

+ 4K (compliance) = 66,920

+Shipping and importers cost = 68,920

Im not sure how you got to 80K - I get 68K so does the importer for grade 4-5 (4,500,000 fob) which is top price i must add.

You only have to look at the one on carsales for 69k. He has only just imported that, trying to make a few $$ and his has auction sheets and 20km less than yours.

A car like yours would cost:

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

3,860,000 = 45,000 AUS D

+10% = 49,500

+10% = 54,450

+4k (complaince) = 58,450

+Shipping and imports costs - 2000 = $60,450

23k less than want you want

YOu may be geting 80k through importers that work off an exchange rate of 80c to our dollar, so they can make a bit on the car as well as their fees.

There are a few out there that do.

Fair comments I guess...at the end of the day, it's whatever your happy with so good luck to you. I hope others interested use this forum and conversations like this to understand the dilema's someone such as yourself have finding one.

I am not beeing critical of you and understand your points of view, only critism is when looking for a car don't start it off with:

'if you accept $xxxx I'll buy it this weekend'....thats all

Chris

If you are so positive about importing, then why dont you do just that. You posted up a wanted thread about a month ago. By now you would already have your car in the country. IMPORT the bloody car and be done with it.

PS i see some flaws in your calcuations. The 10% gst is calculated on the price of the car AND shipping and any other costs associated with it. Second of all, a lot of the tokyo cars (even if they are grade 4's) may have some rust. Thirdly, you dont get to see the car yourself, and the auctioneers may overlook minor (or major?) details to the car. You never know what you are buying. It may be a good car, or it may be a shitter

Chris

If you are so positive about importing, then why dont you do just that. You posted up a wanted thread about a month ago. By now you would already have your car in the country. IMPORT the bloody car and be done with it.

PS i see some flaws in your calcuations. The 10% gst is calculated on the price of the car AND shipping and any other costs associated with it. Second of all, a lot of the tokyo cars (even if they are grade 4's) may have some rust. Thirdly, you dont get to see the car yourself, and the auctioneers may overlook minor (or major?) details to the car. You never know what you are buying. It may be a good car, or it may be a shitter

Exactly!!

We all have our R34 sitting in our garage and are having fun with the car.

Instead of b*tching about the pricings, why don't you get your act together and import one! :)

NO NO NO

Everyone knows, that skyline speedos are factory designed NEVER EVER to go above 99,999km!

Have you ever seen a 1989 r23 gtr with a 100,000km? NO.

...MATE ITS GOT 32,000KM AND JUST HAD THE MOTOR REBUILT...

.

It costs $400aus (cash,no cheques please) to wind back a digital speedo.

baboo

I am only bitching about the price because I see all you guys struggling to sell your cars. Look at ricknismo's been for sale as long as i can remember, mind you, his isn;t the only one.

And I am in no rush to buy it either, I am just looking for a GTR 34 to be my track car, thats it.

hahahah funny joke, your the one that paid 115k for a car thats worth 65k.

Goodluck selling it.

Id be a bit pissed off too if you could buy the same car in probs better condition for 20k cheaper - don't get me wrong.

"Maybe we did dude and tryin to rip YOU and YOU ONLY off...hehe"

I am surprised to get that from you ricknismo

Your the one that got ripped off....

Time will tell i gues, its already been a year...hehehehe

instead of worrying about me being ripped off...maybe you should of made sure u wern't

Buying a car from a dealer who currently wants 85k for a GTR 34 NON V spec

**********"Maybe we did dude and tryin to rip YOU and YOU ONLY off...hehe"************

Rick, that probably wasn't a good thing to say while you are still trying to sell your car - goes to show your intentions - maybe thats y you don;t have your papers.

Edited by GTR__34
"Ricknismo"

I may be the only one thats asks, because I am genuinly looking for one. You said yourself you have had people turn up and disapear after they have gone 4 a quick spin, I don't think they really care if you have the papers or not.

FROM IMPORTER

Hi Chris

just quickly looking at recent auction prices i would say 3.8 to 4.2 million fob for car you want which calculates to $62.500 to $68.500 landed and complied @86 yen exchange rate

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 33,000km blue 45BA 4,095,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE GTR V-SPECIAL Manual 6 Speed 26,000km purple ¶4 4,565,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

4,500,000 fob = 52K (A 1999 model with under 30 GEN. on the clock)

+ 10% = 57,200

+10% = 62,620

+ 4K (compliance) = 66,920

+Shipping and importers cost = 68,920

Im not sure how you got to 80K - I get 68K so does the importer for grade 4-5 (4,500,000 fob) which is top price i must add.

You only have to look at the one on carsales for 69k. He has only just imported that, trying to make a few $$ and his has auction sheets and 20km less than yours.

A car like yours would cost:

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

3,860,000 = 45,000 AUS D

+10% = 49,500

+10% = 54,450

+4k (complaince) = 58,450

+Shipping and imports costs - 2000 = $60,450

23k less than want you want

YOu may be geting 80k through importers that work off an exchange rate of 80c to our dollar, so they can make a bit on the car as well as their fees.

There are a few out there that do.

I want to see you get a 4.5 mil jpy car inaustralia complied for $68,920 dude . Thats not the auction price thats fob price . So you would hase to buy it at 4.4mil.

Here is a realistic brakedown on what it will cost .

I will use exchange rate @ 85jpy=1$ , in todays trading it was 86.5 so you maybe lucky to get 85.

Cost of car $52,900

10% import duty $ 5,290

shipping including q/t , customs entry broker fees tow to raw say ( it will be more) $ 2,000

10% gst on all the above $ 6,019

Now what about luxury tax ? About $ 2,500

You will not get it complied for $4000 including tyres and import aplication ,

Its more like $5,000 and if you need brake pads or other parts removed you add a couple of thousand more . But lets say just $5k $,5000

......................

Total $73,709

This is the minimum it will cost you + rego and stamp duty and it will take a minimum of 6 weeks from the time you buy it , more than likely more so add some interest to that and you can see why i told you to expect to pay 10-15 k extra for a local car .

I wouldnt buy a car for that kind of money ( i had to earn my money , i dont know about you ) if i didnt inspect the car parsonaly but then again its your call .

If i was you i would go for ahoilday top Japan and maybe pick a car then, i must say that a lot of cars, even very young are rusty . The auction sheet may say 4.5 or even 5 and they are rusty , when i say rusty i dont mean rusted out, i mean they have been exposed to salt and they have the cancer in them . At worst case it maybe rusty enough not to be able to comply it !! The only option you have then is to send it back to japan ( or elsewhere ) or destroy it .

The car you are looking for you wont find in australia anyway, even in japan you will have trouble finding one with side airbags. Whatever you do, dont believe the oddos, here or in japan just look at the car condition and disregard the k's on the clock , even in japan they change the clusters then put the original back in to sell it . You may even end up with a car that was a race car in japan then put back to stock .

GTR 34-Gees bloke...you have no sense of humour. If you seriously think I meant something bad by it you are an idiot. And like you said, I am selling it so why would I say something like that and mean it. You are exactly what people like us that own one now hate...friggin moron.

I know this will probably close this thread, but I am sure the others reading this will see whats going on and understand the comments made.

ps....I didn't pay 115k...you can't read either....

I was constructively commenting, actually helping you....your argueing..

Bye bye.

Edited by ricknismo

GTR 34- if you were serious about it you wouldn't be kicking up such a fuss! Maybe your just a dreamer and like to piss poeple off?

If your not I have three letters for you S.V.I.

Mick will be able to get a car for you!

Their ph number is 07 3865 8999

Edited by Baysidebluebnr34
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...