Jump to content
SAU Community

************gtr 34 V Spec*****************


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

We are sort of saying the same thing, exept you are taking the auction sheet as bible. If you buy a 34 NOW with auction sheets saying 50000'ks and be the first owner in Australia and pay $60-65000 do you really think it would compare to a car that has been here for a while and had services etc You just said you would buy that 99 model with 30000 on the clock if it had side air bags for $69k..I am a bit confused I guess. I don't really know but it is probably a fresh import that came over with 30000 on the clock...what did it really have .99 model works out to about 4000 k's a year, also as an example, I bought an 89 GTR with 60000k's (on auction sheet)..It was rebuilt here in australia and it was worn as hell. Another thing also too is the purchase of snow areas of Japan, in the cold and snowy towns they use Salt to defrost there roads so again another issue. I have had 3 GTR's and a GTST so far and have had less issues with ones I have bought from here. Fair enough to get a cheaper car 'mail order', but budget for other stuff too.

Good luck.

If you are going to import a GTR, you can also do a KM check through some Japan department - an importer told me, which is 100% legit.

There is another GTR for sale today with 14km on a 7 year old import - guess what? No papers, Wonder why.....

"ricknismo" if you can track down your auction papers, and put it on your carsales add - it will make it alot easier to sell - I am sure people who are interested have asked you this? Am I right?

By saving 15K you have enogh cash to buy a new gearbox or engine if needed or both - still cheaper than most GTR's for sale now.

Of the cars with auction papers, the tampering has been reduced considerably - to most people the papers are a "bible" - what else can you use?

Actually your the first person that has ever asked, for any of my cars. Most of them get the jist that I look after them and own them for a while.

Here's some thing that was previously said to me:

Hi,

A genuine high grade (4.5 - 5) R34 GTR V SPEC with less than 30,000 Klms on the clock sells on average for 4,500,000 yen at auction in Japan - that's $53,000 car cost in Japan. Add to this all the other associated import costs (shipping, 10% customs duty, 10% gst, compliance etc etc ) and the price these cars are being advertised for in Australia just don't add up!!!

I just paid 4,850,000 yen for a 1999 V SPEC grade 4.5 with genuine 26,000 Klms.

This car ended up low $80,000 on road.

"Ricknismo"

I may be the only one thats asks, because I am genuinly looking for one. You said yourself you have had people turn up and disapear after they have gone 4 a quick spin, I don't think they really care if you have the papers or not.

FROM IMPORTER

Hi Chris

just quickly looking at recent auction prices i would say 3.8 to 4.2 million fob for car you want which calculates to $62.500 to $68.500 landed and complied @86 yen exchange rate

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 33,000km blue 45BA 4,095,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE GTR V-SPECIAL Manual 6 Speed 26,000km purple ¶4 4,565,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

4,500,000 fob = 52K (A 1999 model with under 30 GEN. on the clock)

+ 10% = 57,200

+10% = 62,620

+ 4K (compliance) = 66,920

+Shipping and importers cost = 68,920

Im not sure how you got to 80K - I get 68K so does the importer for grade 4-5 (4,500,000 fob) which is top price i must add.

You only have to look at the one on carsales for 69k. He has only just imported that, trying to make a few $$ and his has auction sheets and 20km less than yours.

A car like yours would cost:

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

3,860,000 = 45,000 AUS D

+10% = 49,500

+10% = 54,450

+4k (complaince) = 58,450

+Shipping and imports costs - 2000 = $60,450

23k less than want you want

YOu may be geting 80k through importers that work off an exchange rate of 80c to our dollar, so they can make a bit on the car as well as their fees.

There are a few out there that do.

Fair comments I guess...at the end of the day, it's whatever your happy with so good luck to you. I hope others interested use this forum and conversations like this to understand the dilema's someone such as yourself have finding one.

I am not beeing critical of you and understand your points of view, only critism is when looking for a car don't start it off with:

'if you accept $xxxx I'll buy it this weekend'....thats all

Chris

If you are so positive about importing, then why dont you do just that. You posted up a wanted thread about a month ago. By now you would already have your car in the country. IMPORT the bloody car and be done with it.

PS i see some flaws in your calcuations. The 10% gst is calculated on the price of the car AND shipping and any other costs associated with it. Second of all, a lot of the tokyo cars (even if they are grade 4's) may have some rust. Thirdly, you dont get to see the car yourself, and the auctioneers may overlook minor (or major?) details to the car. You never know what you are buying. It may be a good car, or it may be a shitter

Chris

If you are so positive about importing, then why dont you do just that. You posted up a wanted thread about a month ago. By now you would already have your car in the country. IMPORT the bloody car and be done with it.

PS i see some flaws in your calcuations. The 10% gst is calculated on the price of the car AND shipping and any other costs associated with it. Second of all, a lot of the tokyo cars (even if they are grade 4's) may have some rust. Thirdly, you dont get to see the car yourself, and the auctioneers may overlook minor (or major?) details to the car. You never know what you are buying. It may be a good car, or it may be a shitter

Exactly!!

We all have our R34 sitting in our garage and are having fun with the car.

Instead of b*tching about the pricings, why don't you get your act together and import one! :)

NO NO NO

Everyone knows, that skyline speedos are factory designed NEVER EVER to go above 99,999km!

Have you ever seen a 1989 r23 gtr with a 100,000km? NO.

...MATE ITS GOT 32,000KM AND JUST HAD THE MOTOR REBUILT...

.

It costs $400aus (cash,no cheques please) to wind back a digital speedo.

baboo

I am only bitching about the price because I see all you guys struggling to sell your cars. Look at ricknismo's been for sale as long as i can remember, mind you, his isn;t the only one.

And I am in no rush to buy it either, I am just looking for a GTR 34 to be my track car, thats it.

hahahah funny joke, your the one that paid 115k for a car thats worth 65k.

Goodluck selling it.

Id be a bit pissed off too if you could buy the same car in probs better condition for 20k cheaper - don't get me wrong.

"Maybe we did dude and tryin to rip YOU and YOU ONLY off...hehe"

I am surprised to get that from you ricknismo

Your the one that got ripped off....

Time will tell i gues, its already been a year...hehehehe

instead of worrying about me being ripped off...maybe you should of made sure u wern't

Buying a car from a dealer who currently wants 85k for a GTR 34 NON V spec

**********"Maybe we did dude and tryin to rip YOU and YOU ONLY off...hehe"************

Rick, that probably wasn't a good thing to say while you are still trying to sell your car - goes to show your intentions - maybe thats y you don;t have your papers.

Edited by GTR__34
"Ricknismo"

I may be the only one thats asks, because I am genuinly looking for one. You said yourself you have had people turn up and disapear after they have gone 4 a quick spin, I don't think they really care if you have the papers or not.

FROM IMPORTER

Hi Chris

just quickly looking at recent auction prices i would say 3.8 to 4.2 million fob for car you want which calculates to $62.500 to $68.500 landed and complied @86 yen exchange rate

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 33,000km blue 45BA 4,095,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE GTR V-SPECIAL Manual 6 Speed 26,000km purple ¶4 4,565,000YEN

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

4,500,000 fob = 52K (A 1999 model with under 30 GEN. on the clock)

+ 10% = 57,200

+10% = 62,620

+ 4K (compliance) = 66,920

+Shipping and importers cost = 68,920

Im not sure how you got to 80K - I get 68K so does the importer for grade 4-5 (4,500,000 fob) which is top price i must add.

You only have to look at the one on carsales for 69k. He has only just imported that, trying to make a few $$ and his has auction sheets and 20km less than yours.

A car like yours would cost:

1999 SKYLINE 2D 4WD GT-R V-SPEC TURBO Manual 6 Speed 50,000km white 45BA 3,860,000YEN

3,860,000 = 45,000 AUS D

+10% = 49,500

+10% = 54,450

+4k (complaince) = 58,450

+Shipping and imports costs - 2000 = $60,450

23k less than want you want

YOu may be geting 80k through importers that work off an exchange rate of 80c to our dollar, so they can make a bit on the car as well as their fees.

There are a few out there that do.

I want to see you get a 4.5 mil jpy car inaustralia complied for $68,920 dude . Thats not the auction price thats fob price . So you would hase to buy it at 4.4mil.

Here is a realistic brakedown on what it will cost .

I will use exchange rate @ 85jpy=1$ , in todays trading it was 86.5 so you maybe lucky to get 85.

Cost of car $52,900

10% import duty $ 5,290

shipping including q/t , customs entry broker fees tow to raw say ( it will be more) $ 2,000

10% gst on all the above $ 6,019

Now what about luxury tax ? About $ 2,500

You will not get it complied for $4000 including tyres and import aplication ,

Its more like $5,000 and if you need brake pads or other parts removed you add a couple of thousand more . But lets say just $5k $,5000

......................

Total $73,709

This is the minimum it will cost you + rego and stamp duty and it will take a minimum of 6 weeks from the time you buy it , more than likely more so add some interest to that and you can see why i told you to expect to pay 10-15 k extra for a local car .

I wouldnt buy a car for that kind of money ( i had to earn my money , i dont know about you ) if i didnt inspect the car parsonaly but then again its your call .

If i was you i would go for ahoilday top Japan and maybe pick a car then, i must say that a lot of cars, even very young are rusty . The auction sheet may say 4.5 or even 5 and they are rusty , when i say rusty i dont mean rusted out, i mean they have been exposed to salt and they have the cancer in them . At worst case it maybe rusty enough not to be able to comply it !! The only option you have then is to send it back to japan ( or elsewhere ) or destroy it .

The car you are looking for you wont find in australia anyway, even in japan you will have trouble finding one with side airbags. Whatever you do, dont believe the oddos, here or in japan just look at the car condition and disregard the k's on the clock , even in japan they change the clusters then put the original back in to sell it . You may even end up with a car that was a race car in japan then put back to stock .

GTR 34-Gees bloke...you have no sense of humour. If you seriously think I meant something bad by it you are an idiot. And like you said, I am selling it so why would I say something like that and mean it. You are exactly what people like us that own one now hate...friggin moron.

I know this will probably close this thread, but I am sure the others reading this will see whats going on and understand the comments made.

ps....I didn't pay 115k...you can't read either....

I was constructively commenting, actually helping you....your argueing..

Bye bye.

Edited by ricknismo

GTR 34- if you were serious about it you wouldn't be kicking up such a fuss! Maybe your just a dreamer and like to piss poeple off?

If your not I have three letters for you S.V.I.

Mick will be able to get a car for you!

Their ph number is 07 3865 8999

Edited by Baysidebluebnr34
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...