Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey kiddies

Anyone slapped a GT-RS in there rb25det ??? I'm mainly just looking for some dyno graphs please and peoples comments who *actualy* have/had the turbo in there car.

Im trying to decide weather to get a gt-rs or a 2535, I know the gtrs is bigger but i wouldnt mind that if its not that much laggier.

Im sure theres 10000 ppl who have got one, and i did try seaching :no: could only find 1 referance which was in the sticky rb25det turbo upgrade thread :D

thanks :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109249-hks-gt-rs-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Back when i was looking at power graphs etc... they seemed to range from 230-260rwkw for the most part, with the occasional freak 290 or so. one guy has over 300!

You'll be right on the cusp of needing injectors (i did mine) or a fuel reg and a Z32afm (i also did this).

Much of a muchness between the GTRS and the GCG Hiflow.

very happy with my choice.

good luck!

cool thanks again :D Sounds like it wont be to laggy at all :D

I know everyone uses a diff dyno and 10000 factors can change your reading but i thought people were making like 240ish kw @ 14psi with the 2535's ? I thought the GTRS would make slightly more power at the same psi??

^ i pulled 251 on a different dyno (friend of a friend works on commo's a lot in his shop and has one).

And as i said, people are making a reliable 260rwkw on that turbo, different cars, different dyno, different day.

I don't have aftermarket cams, maybe some of those do?

For what it's worth, a friend's ~260rwkw 200SX runs neck and neck with my lowly 230kw. He gets a fatter number on his dyno sheet. I still manage to sleep soundly at night. :D

Now please dont take this the wrong way. I find it hard to beleive a turbo that looks identical to the stock s14 sr20 t28 with simply a 71 compressor wheel could put out in the 250-260rwkw range....its not the 71 compressor I find unbeleivable, but the small 0.64 exhaust housing with 53mm turbine...

I have one in front of me now, and dam it looks so small (the 0.64 housing).

This thread is about dyno sheets and the HKSGTRS, how about some times sheets to go with it..??

BTW, out goes the door for my GT30r and in for the gtrs :P

I'd hazard a guess the two dyno sheets in this thread so far are a lot more closer than the 40rwkw difference it looks at face value.

The 230 sheet was NOT in shootut mode and done in January which is summer so if it was a hot day it would of read higher in shootout mode.

The 270 was in shootout mode but with an inlet temp of 53 so had it not been in shootout it would of read lower.

see now uve complicated the issue :) hehe thanks though.

would i be correct in saying that the gt-rs will give you the highest figure with the right mods ?

like i've seen a few gtrs graphs that are 270-300kw or so... can you get that sorta figure with a 2535 ?

Just as a direct comparison, on the same Racepace dyno:

2535 at 14psi....

see now uve complicated the issue :) hehe thanks though.

would i be correct in saying that the gt-rs will give you the highest figure with the right mods ?

like i've seen a few gtrs graphs that are 270-300kw or so... can you get that sorta figure with a 2535 ?

ive never seen a 2535 with that sort of power but u wont want any more than what i have now... they are a great turbo, and you can pick them up cheap! im more than happy to show you how they go!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...