Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just searched everywhere and cant find the answer to what im looking for! Just looking for a good engine oil to use. What im unsure of is exactly what kind of engine oil to use for my possibly genuine 75000km.

For example 5w-40 etc.... and also what is a good brand? its for an RB25DET.

Also what do you guys think of oil flushing fluid as in beneficial, before changing oil?

One more thing what are you guys using in ur similar km RB25DET?

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109762-what-engine-oil-to-use-for-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Seconded on the Motul on all accounts, I use the 8100 5W-40 myself. However... If you are changing from another brand or if this is your first oil change, you *may* want to do an engine flush once, because Motul dissolves a lot of sludge on its own. When I swapped from a crappier brand to Motul after about a year, it dislodged a fair amount of sludge and blocked a lifter and the car wouldn't start due to loss of compression. I towed it to my mechanic (I didn't know what was wrong) and he then had to run an engine flush through it to fix it. He suspected that it might have been a failed lifter but once flushed properly it never had any problems. Running Motul from then on has kept it clean and running really well.

Dont do the engine flush!! and it may be extravagent using the high end motul oil.

I just use castrol magantec and change it every 4000-6000km. Used it for around 20k km now and doesnt use any oil. At almost 110k km now.

Works well. Plenty of other things to blow your money on besides oil that you should change regularly anyway.

Hi,

Just searched everywhere and cant find the answer to what im looking for! Just looking for a good engine oil to use. What im unsure of is exactly what kind of engine oil to use for my possibly genuine 75000km.

For example 5w-40 etc.... and also what is a good brand? its for an RB25DET.

Also what do you guys think of oil flushing fluid as in beneficial, before changing oil?

One more thing what are you guys using in ur similar km RB25DET?

Thanx

Yes use a ester oil like 300v or Redline, they both clean very very well.

  • 1 month later...
I just use castrol magantec and change it every 4000-6000km. Used it for around 20k km now and doesnt use any oil. At almost 110k km now.

Works well. Plenty of other things to blow your money on besides oil that you should change regularly anyway.

i heard the technology behind this oil is that it sticks to engine, hence the name magnatec.... so when other oils drain to the bottom of the engine as they cool/overnight etc the oil "sticks" to the engine..... its sounds good in theory but i also heard the yucky stuff like sludge also sticks as well with the oil... so when you change your oil some of it stays in the engine.......

i heard the technology behind this oil is that it sticks to engine, hence the name magnatec.... so when other oils drain to the bottom of the engine as they cool/overnight etc the oil "sticks" to the engine..... its sounds good in theory but i also heard the yucky stuff like sludge also sticks as well with the oil... so when you change your oil some of it stays in the engine.......

All modern motor oils have the "sticky" technology, if you can even call it technology. If they didn't, engines would wear out a hell of a lot faster whenever they were left overnight without running. If you want a form of proof, buy a new set of disc rotors. They will have a thin film of oil coating them to stop rust, and it doesn't matter if they are stored for years it will still have the same coating of oil.

Magnatec is just a marketing gimmick. If it really has some sort of extra magnetism (why?), that would imply some sort of ferrous component in it. Would you really want iron filings floating through your engine sticking to all the metal? All good oils have a decent amount of detergent in them too, to help avoid the buildup of "sludge" that they will all get if left to cook inside an engine long enough.

This post is not aimed at you, it's just addressing the Magnatec. I prefer to use a full synth rather than subscribe to mainstream marketing gimmicks. Magnatec seems to be an otherwise decent oil but there are much better choices. The main thing turbo cars need to contend with is the breakdown of the oil at high temperatures, and full synthetics generally have a higher temperature tolerance than semi synth or mineral oils.

All modern motor oils have the "sticky" technology, if you can even call it technology. If they didn't, engines would wear out a hell of a lot faster whenever they were left overnight without running. If you want a form of proof, buy a new set of disc rotors. They will have a thin film of oil coating them to stop rust, and it doesn't matter if they are stored for years it will still have the same coating of oil.

Magnatec is just a marketing gimmick. If it really has some sort of extra magnetism (why?), that would imply some sort of ferrous component in it. Would you really want iron filings floating through your engine sticking to all the metal? All good oils have a decent amount of detergent in them too, to help avoid the buildup of "sludge" that they will all get if left to cook inside an engine long enough.

This post is not aimed at you, it's just addressing the Magnatec. I prefer to use a full synth rather than subscribe to mainstream marketing gimmicks. Magnatec seems to be an otherwise decent oil but there are much better choices. The main thing turbo cars need to contend with is the breakdown of the oil at high temperatures, and full synthetics generally have a higher temperature tolerance than semi synth or mineral oils.

Most likely Magnatec are using group II base oil which contend some element of ester. Ester has been added to some engine oil for it polar effect which 'cling' onto any surface it pass thus lower the startup wear. Oh not all oil are added with ester as ester are 5 times more expensive than mineral base stock.

Now you know why Redline are hell of expensive when compare to normal synthetic...

Some oil i know that contain ester

Redline - mostly ester base

Motul 300V - mostly ester base

Fuchs silkorene - mostly ester

Delvac 1 - small percentage of ester

Magnatec - unknown percentage of ester (likely small amount)

Trex, you seem to know quiet a bit about oils. May i ask what you do for a living?

Also, what do you think of motul 8100 5w40? does it contain those good group iv/v oils? what about esters? good additives?

You also seem to like Delvac 1 - is this fully synthetic?

Thanks heaps mate.

Trex, you seem to know quiet a bit about oils. May i ask what you do for a living?

Also, what do you think of motul 8100 5w40? does it contain those good group iv/v oils? what about esters? good additives?

You also seem to like Delvac 1 - is this fully synthetic?

Thanks heaps mate.

I'm work as a aircraft mechanic as my day job and import/supply performance lub to local clubs as a sideline/hobbies.

Motul 8100 5w40 may not contain ester in it's oil formulation. You may want to choose 8100 0w40 if it's ester you are looking for .

Yes, Delvac 1 5w40 are fully synthetic using a blend of PAO/ester couple with a pretty strong additives pack and it's cheap too over in Aussie.

Another good read about polyolester.

polyolester - redline oil

Edited by Trex101

motul 8100 5 w 40 costs me $52.

delvac is about 30-15.

So is the delvac 1 act5ually better than the 8100(non ester)? So it's cheaper and better?

I'm a bit weary about using the delvac oil. U sure it's ok? I was reading the mobil site and it said it was for diesals.

Cheers mate.

So say if I had an oil budget of 50-60, what would be the best I could buy?

Is ester a lot better than non ester?

What do you think of elf excellium 5 w 40? Does it contain much ester? and is it made of good oil? I can buy it for $45.

Thanks heaps for your help. I don't understand the informaiton that the sites say about their oils.

So say if I had an oil budget of 50-60, what would be the best I could buy?

Is ester a lot better than non ester?

What do you think of elf excellium 5 w 40? Does it contain much ester? and is it made of good oil? I can buy it for $45.

Thanks heaps for your help. I don't understand the informaiton that the sites say about their oils.

Yes, ester is better in alot more ways than normal PAO synthetic but it comes at a price. Delvac 1 is dual rated API SL and CI-4+,

API SL = suitable for petrol engine

CI-4+ = suitable for high output diesel engine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...