Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am darg racing my R32 GTR with standard front bar and intercooler this weekend and I wonder if it better to leave the front bar on so you get better aero dynamics and more flow pushed towards the intercooler

or

Take it off and have slightly less weight and more of the intercooler showing. And more air I guess flowing round the engine??

I have to put it on a trailer so Im taking it off anyway but should I put it back on.

Wat are peoples thoughts on this matter??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/109809-take-front-bar-off-or-leave-it-on/
Share on other sites

I am darg racing my R32 GTR with standard front bar and intercooler this weekend and I wonder if it better to leave the front bar on so you get better aero dynamics and more flow pushed towards the intercooler

or

Take it off and have slightly less weight and more of the intercooler showing. And more air I guess flowing round the engine??

I have to put it on a trailer so Im taking it off anyway but should I put it back on.

Wat are peoples thoughts on this matter??

I once took the front bar off my R32 GT-R. There are about a bazillion bolts holding it in place & believe me, by the time you have got half way through removing it you will wish you hadn't ever started. Doing it twice is being a glutton for punishment. Just run it as you brung it - you won't notice the difference either way.

For my 10 cents it would be well worth figuring our how to get it onthe trailer without having to remove the spoiler.

yeah i wouldn't go the cable tie option on a GTR bar. they are quite heavy. on a fibreglass chepo bar for drift it may not be so bad, but not a good idea for circuit or drag.

next time you take the bar off... take the metal bumper bit off two... means that there should be 4 bolts and 4 screws and off she comes. shouldn't take more than 10 mins to take off and refit.

and I would have thought that cable ties are as strong as the screws that hole the bar in place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
×
×
  • Create New...