Slow R33 Intercooler Install (in Progress)

[MMM]

also the fan blades were they essential to cut? i heard if you use a longer silicon hose on the intake side it raises it just a lil bit more and u dont have to cut... but i spose ill find out soon

btw ur car looks exactly like mine same filter n shit

Edited June 29, 2006 by MMM

[Birnie]

For me, yes they needed to be cut.

There's about a 1-2cm gap but it's definatley clear.

...and the pipe is changing colour, I'm gussing because it's touch the heat sheild stuff on the bonnet...so i wouldn't want to raise it any higher if possible,.

Edited June 29, 2006 by Birnie

[MMM]

ok guys i got about half a day left on this and i got 1 more problem....

see that little pipe going into the old cooler pipe i had to pull it out and on my new cooler pipes it doesnt have a fitting for me to attach it back onto.. question is is it important and what do i do with it?? it was on the intake pipe

cheers

[jeffworld2]

that goes to the boost controler and the wastegate, if your looking at the same part i am, the hose thats holding up that loose clamp on the cooler pipe. ...its pretty important lol perhaps you can plumb it somewhere else though? just needs to be before the throttle body but close as possible is better to get accurate boost signals. someone enlighten us please

[MMM]

yeah thats it aye i know it has to go somewhere just dont know where??

[Birnie]

The little pipe needs to be used.

That's where the actuator (that controls the little outlet door on the turbo) gets it's pressure reading from.

If the pressure is to high, it opens up and lets some gas out so the turbo won't spool up as much.

If you don't attatch it, there will be no pressure reading at all and the actuator will keep the door on the turbo shut to try and get boost up and reach the 7psi level.

Therefore, you will have unlimited boost ! BAD !!

Your little needle will go right off the chart and turbo blades may detach...

You probably can drive around just don't accelerate to hard and your boost won't go to high.

Enough for you to drive somewhere to drill a hole and weld a nipple on there for you and all will be sweet.

...and if your gunna have a front mount, at least get a bleed valve !

Yeeehar !

Just got my car tuned on 12psi using the bleeder and a Power FC, and FMIC of course.

frigin hell!!!!

Scary shit and I'm only on 194 rwkws!

Good luck

Birnie

[drewr33]

I would do what Birnie said... Maybe better to take that pipe off and bring it to a place to weld a nipple on. That way you can make sure all the metal filings are all out of the pipe, before it goes back together.

[MMM]

ok guys i found a spot to put it.. my mate rekosn he puts it where the pipe going in to the pollution canistor thingy from the intake plenen.. seems to work i guess but i havent driven it soo i dont know? btw its all done biggest headache and soo many hours in it

[MMM]

ok thats where i tapped into it is that any good?... thanx again guys really appreciate it

[Birnie]

I honestly have know idea what that black thing is and if it has pressurised air coming thru it.

Take it for a drive, if your boost levels seem to max out at the same spot as before the cooler kit....ie 5 and 7psi....you should be set.

Now go and spend $50 on a bleed valve..tehe

[chrissso]

Hey Birnie, The olny problem I forsee with your actuator feed is that the acuator will get vacuum from the plenum when the throttle is shut. I have read on this forum that the acuators don't handle vacuum too well, and the best thing to do is weld a nipple on.

Here's what I did. This is my pipe coming from the cooler.

[MMM]

yep found out guys i need to get a nipple welded on to it thanx heaps

[Birnie]

Any mods looking' ?

Can we pop this one into the DIY section?

Thanks

[seriesII]

hey. i was wondering what is the best way to rust proof a hole that you make?.. just paint it with rust proofing paint?. or is there something beta so it dont chip of when a screw goes through?.. thanx

[jrm]

Wow, 2006 thread revival or what ..

[Birnie]

  seriesII said:

hey. i was wondering what is the best way to rust proof a hole that you make?.. just paint it with rust proofing paint?. or is there something beta so it dont chip of when a screw goes through?.. thanx

Hi, i cut the whole with a circular (metal type) saw on the drill.

Then used regular rough wood sandpaper to smooth it off until it was safe to touch with your fingers.

Then painted with a generous amount of rust paint.

I has it like that for years with no issues (and i have seen bad ones with rust galore)

I was going to get a piece of garden hose and slice it down one side for the full length of the tube, and then wrap that over the cut to help stop any damage to the pipes, but there simply wasn't any room after the cut and by that stage, i didn't give a crap anymore

Wasn't going to re-drill bigger. Good luck!

[seriesII]

thanx so much for that help.. i was thinking of puting some type of rubber around it and glueing it down or something so the pipes dont scratch.. but, so hard when doing small holes... ill use rust paint.. thanx again..

and yeah.. old thread coming back at you ..

[ksx]

Hey guys,

thanks for great DIY-guide.

What did you do with the washer tank? Moved it, bought a smaller one for the original position or just throwed it away?

[Birnie]

Double check 'Post #8', then the 3rd pic.

It's a pic of the intercooler hole i drilled from inside the engine bay.

You can see the hole is below the bottom screw of the original washer tank.

All good

[ksx]

  Birnie said:

Double check 'Post #8', then the 3rd pic.

It's a pic of the intercooler hole i drilled from inside the engine bay.

You can see the hole is below the bottom screw of the original washer tank.

All good

Problem is that on my R34 there's some type of cooler (my guess is for the power steering oil) mounted in that area. It's not possible to move, the piping is hard, and it doesn't allow me to angle the original tank. I solved it yesterday by mounting a smaller tank inside the engine bay.