Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what you more experienced guys think of these 1 piece dump front pipes, it will be on a 32 with a soon to be fitted vg30 turbo. The pipe is the same price as a screamer style dump plus you get the rest of the piping down to the cat. Does the seperate pipe and seperater on the screamer style give you any significant gains over this style. Please give me your advise. Also, I have found an old AFC unit with ony one adjustment over the enyire rev range aprox 12% + or - for my turbo upgrade will this allow my stock ecu to handle the bigger flow of the vg30 or do I need to have my ecu remapped or do I need the newer Safc, I appreciate all your advice thankyou.

r32mspec, I have been told by an exhaust design specialist, that with the stock turbos, having a seperate wastegate pipe has no advantage over integrated. Its only when you start getting into larger aftermarked turbos it does help.

I had a combined pipe made up, that incorporated the front pipe, and am very happy with the results - and at half the cost of using a seperate wastegate pipe, I'm happy.

It cant be working too bad, becuase I dont have much spare in the way of injectors, and am at the limits of the stock turbo. Also, it is really, really hard to drive without coming on boost.

Thanks for advise, think i'll go that way, if any one else is interested the Pictured pipe is from Flying Motorsport International www.flyn.com.au $300 it is a sydney number but when i conacted them he said at this stage they are a mail order only setup, Bumer i always like to have a good look a goodies before i buy them.

Originally posted by rev210

the sepparate dump pipe does not help. It can be a hinderance on a stock turbo. The units form the Jap tuning houses do not have them for a good reason.

Let the people who disagree with me beat my 1/4 time. (jokes)

I'm with Rev on this one.

The stock turbo wastgate is the problem with the turbo (among other things). Using a seperate one might give you a bit more up top, but for the price it isn't worth it.

I got a one piece, got it for $280, and it works fine.

The only thing I want to do with it is wrap it in thermo wrap stuff.

J

  • 2 weeks later...

Also, any ideas on what sort of boost level rise I can expect from adding the front/dump?

I haven't touched the boost and am running 6.5/8.5psi with a 3.5" cat back and pod.

Question is cause I'm looking at putting in a dual bleed valve setup (aka Zahos) and don't want to go over 10psi if I can help it.

i have a Trust cat back + front pipe and the peak boost is about 9.8psi; but when the boost kicks up at 4K it is pretty much always more than 9psi. I've just had a seperate wastegate dump fitted (today) and want to get on the dyno again to see what (if any) difference it made.

Hi Guys, so let me get this right, on a standard turbo that produces say 300 bhp (an RB25DET standard turbo) a separated wastegate pipe and turbine outlet pipe is not worth it. But on an after market turbo that produces, say 350 bhp (HKS 2530) a separated wastegate pipe and turbine outlet pipe is worth it.

Seems illogical to me.

I am having trouble believing that there is absolutely no interference whatsoever to the flow of exhaust from the turbine when the wastegate (even if it is a smaller one) opens. There must be some interference, it is simply a question of how much.

So it gets down to a matter of value for money, is the extra power gained worth the cost of separate pipes or not?

Experience would tell me that most people who go to the trouble of upgrading their dump in a Skyline, will sometime in the future (often forced by ceramic turbine failure) at least hi flow their standard turbo. Then a split dump for them is definitely a worthwhile investment.

Hope that adds to the thought processes.

hey guys,

If any1 wants to buy a front+dump pipe (one piece, like the picture above), let me know, because i can supply you with a mild steel 3 inch front+dump pipe for $260 for r32 & r33 skyline.

If you want a stainless steel one, its $360.

If someone want one for a 180sx or other let me know and i can quote you a price, i just have to call the guys that make it(CATCO).

They also do 3 inch hi-flow cats (with flanges). If interested, I can buy you one for $160.

I can ship interstate for a little extra.

cheers

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by BATMBL

hey guys,

If any1 wants to buy a front+dump pipe (one piece, like the picture above), let me know, because i can supply you with a mild steel 3 inch front+dump pipe for $260 for r32 & r33 skyline.  

If you want a stainless steel one, its $360.  

If someone want one for a 180sx or other let me know and i can quote you a price, i just have to call the guys that make it(CATCO).  

They also do 3 inch hi-flow cats (with flanges). If interested, I can buy you one for $160.

I can ship interstate for a little extra.

cheers

thats way 2 pricey for mild steel, u can get stainles for $240.

I'm also interested in getting a 1 piece dump/front pipe ansd a 3" maybe 3.5" cat to finish off my exhaust . If you guys who know where to get these could you post links/details .

Everyone likes to save a bit of cash but does it sacrifice a bit of quality in the process ?

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by BATMBL

$240 for a stainless 3inch pipe, yeh right...

the trade prices for those pipes are higher than that.

you see people buying pipes for 400 etc, thats just too low for a decent stainless steel pipe me thinks..

my2c

i got this for $280

attachment.php?s=&postid=65825

attachment.php?s=&postid=65829

attachment.php?s=&postid=65833

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...