Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BOBBO's new car does 600kms to a tank with the D-jetro, I remember Mike telling me how Danny proved it to him on a crusie. Mike since turfed his standard power FC and has the D-jetro now.

Thats mad, how many kws?

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How many km's out of a tank can you get R32-GTS?

You have big cams and big power levels so I'm very interested to see how or if it is different to other people with stock or slightly modded RB26's.

This would also help in some research I'm doing and I'd be happy to share the results.

about 580hp, but it will never get those km, if you are on the noise all the time, country cruising at an average pace will might see those kms.

BOBBO, are you saying you have 580hp at the wheels and can still get close to 600km per tank if you took it easy? :) If this is the case, what are your mods like, injectors, spark setup, cams.

I'd state my conclusion on something that some people might find interesting. :happy:

One quick question here, my D-Jetro is being installed tomorrow, I am very excited. But, what happens to my AFM's? As you can see from my sig, the next thing i want to get is the D-Jetro air intake kit which will take the AFM's out altogether....

What happens for now though?

cheers

One quick question here, my D-Jetro is being installed tomorrow, I am very excited. But, what happens to my AFM's? As you can see from my sig, the next thing i want to get is the D-Jetro air intake kit which will take the AFM's out altogether....

What happens for now though?

cheers

unplug em and leave em where they are :happy:

unplug em and leave em where they are :)

OK, I was 99% sure that was what had to be done, but thanks for the confirmation :happy:

I didn't know whether unplugging them rendered them constantly open or closed, so its open then...

thnks

OK, I was 99% sure that was what had to be done, but thanks for the confirmation :happy:

I didn't know whether unplugging them rendered them constantly open or closed, so its open then...

thnks

hey topaz they dont open or close at all, its only a little peice of metal hangin from the afm in the airs path that detects the heat and flow and thats it. when disconnected causes no restriction as its about the thickness of a couple of hairs.

hey topaz they dont open or close at all, its only a little peice of metal hangin from the afm in the airs path that detects the heat and flow and thats it. when disconnected causes no restriction as its about the thickness of a couple of hairs.

wow, shows what I know, I thought there was sort of a air gate that acted like a choke on a carbaretor style engine :D

Guys,

My car orignally came with the standard ECU but with a PFC to chuck on later. I had a bit of a think ahead and asked a few mates with GTR's with upgraded turbo's similar to mine and found they had no end of troubles with AFM's and upgrading them with first RB20 then VG30 items. I factored the cost of upgrading the AFM's and subsequently the pods and adaptors i had to suit the standard AFM's and using the PFC i had then worked out it was a much simpler and cheaper exercise to go the Djetro.

That plus not hearing anything but praise for the results they give. It just made sense to me.

Since having it installed i can honestly say there has been no difference in cold start, light throttle applications or idle from the standard computer. The car gets fully tuned tomorrow (i've had boost control probs.) so i'll be able to tell you the final result.

Cheers.

Guys,

My car orignally came with the standard ECU but with a PFC to chuck on later. I had a bit of a think ahead and asked a few mates with GTR's with upgraded turbo's similar to mine and found they had no end of troubles with AFM's and upgrading them with first RB20 then VG30 items. I factored the cost of upgrading the AFM's and subsequently the pods and adaptors i had to suit the standard AFM's and using the PFC i had then worked out it was a much simpler and cheaper exercise to go the Djetro.

That plus not hearing anything but praise for the results they give. It just made sense to me.

Since having it installed i can honestly say there has been no difference in cold start, light throttle applications or idle from the standard computer. The car gets fully tuned tomorrow (i've had boost control probs.) so i'll be able to tell you the final result.

Cheers.

I have done the $ for few guys, once you add in the extra installation costs and the tuning costs, the DJetro works out no cheaper than a Power FC, including a new pair of Z32 AFM's. Using a 350 rwkw power target as an example.

Power FC = $950

2 X Z32 AFM's = $550

Installation = $Zero

Tuning = $500

Total = $2,000

DJetro = $1,050

Installation = $300 (map sensors and wiring + replace AFM's)

Tuning = $900

Total = $2,250

Since you have actually done it, what did it cost you?

:wub: cheers :(

I have done the $ for few guys, once you add in the extra installation costs and the tuning costs, the DJetro works out no cheaper than a Power FC, including a new pair of Z32 AFM's. Using a 350 rwkw power target as an example.

Power FC = $950

2 X Z32 AFM's = $550

Installation = $Zero

Tuning = $500

Total = $2,000

DJetro = $1,050

Installation = $300 (map sensors and wiring + replace AFM's)

Tuning = $900

Total = $2,250

Since you have actually done it, what did it cost you?

:wub: cheers :(

Tuning time really depends on how many maps the tuner has for the D-Jetro and what his experience is.

I know that in WA, there are now a lot of maps floating around for D-Jetro and most people are happy to share theirs anyway (I most certainly am anyway).

An interesting point - who "owns" the tuning information after you pay for the tune?

Cheers

Gav

Not wanting to change the topic too much but in answer to your querie Sydneykid it cost me $1,900 from memory all up. As Gav says there are a few people over here that have the maps so the install and tuning costs were down on what you mention.

My calculations for the normal PFC certainly didn't factor $550 for two Z32 AFM's as i was only going to use new items for piece of mind. I assume the $550 you mention is for 2nd hand? if not thats a top price and maybe my calculations would've meant i stuck with the normal PFC i already had.

As they say 'the past is the past' though and i certainly dont regret the choice i have made. For my mind the Djetro is a good piece of kit.

Cheers,

Ryan.

I have done the $ for few guys, once you add in the extra installation costs and the tuning costs, the DJetro works out no cheaper than a Power FC, including a new pair of Z32 AFM's. Using a 350 rwkw power target as an example.

Power FC = $950

2 X Z32 AFM's = $550

Installation = $Zero

Tuning = $500

Total = $2,000

DJetro = $1,050

Installation = $300 (map sensors and wiring + replace AFM's)

Tuning = $900

Total = $2,250

Since you have actually done it, what did it cost you?

:wub: cheers :(

I got 2 brand new Z32 AFM's for $600 in Melbourne.

The only reason I didnt go D Jetro was I was paranoid about drilling my plenum whilst still bolted in place.Do you guys remove the intake or just drill into it????

Tuning time really depends on how many maps the tuner has for the D-Jetro and what his experience is.

I know that in WA, there are now a lot of maps floating around for D-Jetro and most people are happy to share theirs anyway (I most certainly am anyway).

An interesting point - who "owns" the tuning information after you pay for the tune?

Cheers

Gav

Hi Gav, the theory is you paid for the maps so they belong to you. The reality is..............

Not wanting to change the topic too much but in answer to your querie Sydneykid it cost me $1,900 from memory all up. As Gav says there are a few people over here that have the maps so the install and tuning costs were down on what you mention.

My calculations for the normal PFC certainly didn't factor $550 for two Z32 AFM's as i was only going to use new items for piece of mind. I assume the $550 you mention is for 2nd hand? if not thats a top price and maybe my calculations would've meant i stuck with the normal PFC i already had.

As they say 'the past is the past' though and i certainly dont regret the choice i have made. For my mind the Djetro is a good piece of kit.

Cheers,

Ryan.

Hi Ryan, thanks for the honest answer. Plenty of guys have said to me that DJetro is cheaper, but it never works out that way when you add it all up. As time goes on and the tuners get more experience with DJetros the price will come down, I can remember when Power FC's were $2,000 without Commander, plus $1,000 to install and tune. Competiton leads to lower prices.

The Z32AFM's are new, it's just a matter of shopping around. The Group Buy price is $300 each and you can pick them up a little cheaper than that.

:wub: cheers :(

One quick question here, my D-Jetro is being installed tomorrow, I am very excited. But, what happens to my AFM's? As you can see from my sig, the next thing i want to get is the D-Jetro air intake kit which will take the AFM's out altogether....

What happens for now though?

cheers

How did you go today?

I have done the $ for few guys, once you add in the extra installation costs and the tuning costs, the DJetro works out no cheaper than a Power FC, including a new pair of Z32 AFM's. Using a 350 rwkw power target as an example.

Power FC = $950

2 X Z32 AFM's = $550

Installation = $Zero

Tuning = $500

Total = $2,000

DJetro = $1,050

Installation = $300 (map sensors and wiring + replace AFM's)

Tuning = $900

Total = $2,250

Since you have actually done it, what did it cost you?

:( cheers :O

the tuning costs the same over here, so you are in front.

even if people charge more elsewhere you make that money back pretty quick on a road car thanks to far better fuel ecconomy. Even Need4speed gets better fuel ecconomy than mine when driven in a tame manner :bunny:

I never thought I'd say it but, the d-jetro spanks the afm version and I have no clue as to why? :D

Its possible the afm pfc is tuners are lazy and don't fiddle as much where as the djectro tuners are required to tweak and tend to lean it out a little more under zero vacuum and carry it over to a couple psi of boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...