Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just thought you guys might like some fun reading. this guy has spent a shitload of money on rebuilding his motor and got 145kw out of it on 11psi and is hoping for 200+. im a member of preludesaustralia as i used to drive a 3rd generation prelude before my skyline.

but yeah.. have fun

http://www.preludeaustralia.com/forums/ind...showtopic=13657

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110655-some-guy-rebuilt-and-turbod-a-honda/
Share on other sites

try the new link..

well a guy from there has rebuild his motor with forgies and billet rods. around 1yr later and hes pulling 145kw on 11psi and thinks its a monster, so does the rest of the forum.

i dont think anyone would want to be a member of prelude australia :P

how much would he have had to spend to get 145kw from a honda, considering he went with forgies n that. and his running 11psi too lol

Well the answer is always gonna be -- For the cred

People often spend shitloads on slower cars so that they have something 'different'. It's common sense, that if you want a faster car, you start with a faster platform.

This guy obviously wanted a prelude specifically, that goes faster than most others :P

It must have taken him sh*tloads of heart-ache to get where he is, he probably deserves a bit of credit, even if it isnt a tyre frying monster! .... well, it probably IS a front tyre frying monster, but you get what i mean! :D

Edited by Primordial

power to the bloke for doing something original.. but he would've gotten more out of putting an type r motor into his car and starting from there.

the only reason i did this was to give him a taste of his own medicine.. he put a poll up at once stage asking how UGLY another members car is.

WTF - I didn't bother signing up, but he's clearly doing something seriously wrong. One of my mates have a forged H22A and large turbo on his Prelude and did a run on 6psi (only tuned for engine run in) and managed a very wheelspinny 13.2 @ 186kph. With 11psi and a built motor (built motor is an advantage as on NA the tune is usually just to keep it alive) an H22A should be making some pretty decent power.

They are at least comparable to an RB25DE in NA form, so the same would suit for when a turbo is attached to a built RB25DET.

I think some people just have too much money on their hand or they just want to be different (credit to them for their creativity though) .Turbo charging a H22a can give you a pretty quick car if done properly, there are endless examples in the states due to cheap parts. But like the other says you will need to have a pretty deep wallet and comes with plenty of heartaches as well along the way. A stock 5th gen vtir is pretty quick for a na car (cause I have one) and I can tell you it beats a stock na 33 easy.

Haha my bad havent read the topic in PA just going on what the previous post said. The 89 ludes are very light plus turbo should be pretty quick on the quater.

My bad - sorry for putting you wrong on that :P

I had assumed that the only Prelude that anyone would bother turbo'ing would be one with an H22A in it. B20As are pretty poos.

I've got a couple of mates with stock engine'd Hondas (one a 1.8VTEC Integra, the other a 1.6VTEC Civic) both running 8.7psi (.6bar is a nice safeish boost level for a stock VTEC motor) and both do mid/low 13s quite happily and reliably.

I think some people just have too much money on their hand or they just want to be different (credit to them for their creativity though) .Turbo charging a H22a can give you a pretty quick car if done properly, there are endless examples in the states due to cheap parts. But like the other says you will need to have a pretty deep wallet and comes with plenty of heartaches as well along the way. A stock 5th gen vtir is pretty quick for a na car (cause I have one) and I can tell you it beats a stock na 33 easy.

Most cars beat NA R33s...then again Nissan relies on turbos for performance cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...