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Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is s

fatz
fatz

less thinking more doing shit that works in the getto Dash ten on pasengers side Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up note

SimonR32
SimonR32

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stoc

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skylinestx Apprentice

skylinestx

Posted
Posted

What are you using the car for - street, circuit, drag, drifting? Is it going to be experiencing long periods of WOT?

hi mate, i would say a bit of all..but mainly fast road..just concerned about the stock 1.2mm restrictors. do you think i should block the middle one and leave the vvt and rear 1.2mm or drill them out to 1.5mm?

mickr33couple Community Regular

mickr33couple

Posted
Posted

100% leave the vct, if you have 1.2mm in the rear already then I would put another 1.2mm in the middle, or block the middle and make the rear 1.5mm

I've got nitto pump with Vct untouched, middle blocked, 1.5mm rear

But think I should of went 1.2mm middle and rear

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
Posted

Im still a little unsure what would be the best...either to leave them all at 1.2mm or block the middle and drill the resar to 1.5mm..

Anyone left the at 1.2mm? Cheers for any info

I've had front and rear with 1.2mm restrictors for some months now and no issues to report. Standard RB25DET oil pump.

skylinestx Apprentice

skylinestx

Posted
Posted

I've had front and rear with 1.2mm restrictors for some months now and no issues to report. Standard RB25DET oil pump.

Hi thanks for the reply..im not sure if the n1 pump will a bit too much and accumilate in the head..do they flow a lot more than standard?

Christian P Contributor

Christian P

Posted
Posted (edited)

i started reading about the RB a few years back when considered buying a GT-R which i now have and is currently being stripped. been reading up on oil system a lot lately but never having worked on a car other than changing tires this thread is a lot to take in when it comes to the technical side of things.

I understand the RB26 has some oil issues in the standard form when upping the power level and oil starvation is pretty scary to say the least. how would a leathal person with limited knowldge and money best tacke the oil issue? i plan on removing the engine this weekand, so this is pretty much the reason for me reading up on these things as of late. to be honest i came to page 31 and then skipped to the end due to technical understanding of things.

Ofcourse its inevitable that the engine will one day need a rebuild, question is how one can be as proactive as possible, most of you would seem to know a great deal and track your cars a lot compared to the normal skyline owner where I only intend on using my car for 3-4 track days per year and some spirited mountains runs (due to insurance my limit will be 5,000km per year) what would my best investment be on the oil-side?, will be running 450-500bhp on a pair of GT-SS (to be installed), currently have a N1 oil pump, completely new top with ACL race bearings, tomei 260 9.15 cams and cam gears that all was installed a year back after last owner blow the ceramic turbos. not having any direct mechanical experience (shell restoration is bit of a learning curve already) i would be happy to leave the block and top alone and away from drills.

Also been reading a lot of negative feedback about the N1 pump over at gtr.co.uk but over here it seems be a known issue of early crankshaft (barely know what that is), is this something i need to be worried about on a R34? so, what angle is the best to take on this?

Extended sump/pan?

tomei baffle plate?

oil cooler? (overkill if i go extended sump?)

other more important things i might need to consider first?

Christian

Edited by Christian P
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

R34 crank is fine.

Extended sump + baffles good idea.

If you do the above you can hold the oil cooler and see if it becomes necessary - easy to fit later.

N1 pump - suggest a set of Reimax gears with carefull assembly (recent local failure - haven't got to the bottom of it yet).

If you are reboring the block and it will be thoroughly cleaned drill out and relieve the oil returns.

Maybe get some feedback from other RB26 owners re oil restrictors.

mickr33couple Community Regular

mickr33couple

Posted
Posted

Here is food for thought,

This is with a nitto pump so it's just a guideline for you as the nitto pumps alot more then n1

I know a guy with a rb26 with nitto pump, had 1.5m restritor in, high octance larger sump, rear head drain, and he was filling up the catch can... Ended up pulling head off and changing to 1.1m restritor problem solved,

Been rb26 it's solid lifters so you won't have drama with hyd like rb25

Shazz Collaborator

Shazz

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got a built rb26. I'm running a nitto pump 1mm restrictor in the block, sump baffles. Hi octane 3 stage cam cover baffle. Remote oil filter and 13 row cooler

Cam covers have two -10 lines run to the top of a catch can. The bottom of the catch can has two -10 lines which return to the sump. It vents to atmosphere and and it pumps a bit of oily vapor out the breathers. I believe it's coming from the sump. I can't put a non return valve in as it will stop the catch can equalizing the pressure from the sump.......any suggestions?

Edited by Shazz
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Depending on the height of the catch can, as it needs to be lower, can you shove some stainless steel wool up the breather pipe and plumb it back into the intake? Most of the venting breather setups I have seen make a mess of the engine bay with oil vapour.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I've got a built rb26. I'm running a nitto pump 1mm restrictor in the block, sump baffles. Hi octane 3 stage cam cover baffle. Remote oil filter and 13 row cooler

Cam covers have two -10 lines run to the top of a catch can. The bottom of the catch can has two -10 lines which return to the sump. It vents to atmosphere and and it pumps a bit of oily vapor out the breathers. I believe it's coming from the sump. I can't put a non return valve in as it will stop the catch can equalizing the pressure from the sump.......any suggestions?

What do you mean by equalising pressure from the sump? I have two lines coming from the sump into a catch can to relieve the pressure in the sump and as Scotty says I get oil vapour coming out the breather so I have got a second, baffled catch can (or a proper oil/air seperator would be good) to take a line from where the breather was on the primary catch can and I will plumb the second one into my intake.

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