Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all I just bought a R32 GTR and I love it. I have driven a few cars in my time and so far I have found the GTR the most fun to drive. The way you can throw it around is unreal.

The car is stock exp for zorst and turbos which has hks 25, 30’s. I was looking at getting an ecu but there are so many to choose from I don't know what to get.

This is what I have being tossing up between so far, PFC, WOLF3D v. 4.

Has anyone hear used the wolf, I know most ppl hear are using the PFC just would kike to know what the wolf's are like. Also I live out near Airport west, can anyone recommend a good work shop out that way or any way around this side of town or along the western ring road towards Epping? Any help would be great.

By the way this is far the best forum out there for Nissans keep up the good work...

Edited by madness
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Madness,

I have used the Wolf for the last 3-4yrs and believe it to be an awesome ecu. There are alot of ppl/tunners that would disagree and say otherwise, but they most probably have not used the wolf b4 and couldn't use it's numerous features to tune it.

I have had my car for approx 5-6yrs an have solely gone to EAS Performance all this time, not alot of ppl can say that about their w/shop of choice :D.

They are located at:

11 Victory Rd

Airport West

tele:9330 2001

Speak to Vic, he will tell you a little more about the Wolf's features.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2039951
Share on other sites

Hi Madness,

I have used the Wolf for the last 3-4yrs and believe it to be an awesome ecu. There are alot of ppl/tunners that would disagree and say otherwise, but they most probably have not used the wolf b4 and couldn't use it's numerous features to tune it.

I have had my car for approx 5-6yrs an have solely gone to EAS Performance all this time, not alot of ppl can say that about their w/shop of choice :P.

They are located at:

11 Victory Rd

Airport West

tele:9330 2001

Speak to Vic, he will tell you a little more about the Wolf's features.

Thanks for that, I did ring them up spoke to Vic, He is more of a wolf specialist, he said to me that if I want to go the pfc route I should speak to Ben from race pace, all in all he was very nice to me and said to me that at the end of the day it's up to me to choose what i want. He's really passionate about what he dose which is a must.

i wouldn't recommend wolf for a GTR, i'd go with Power FC

Can you please give me some reasons as to why I shouldn't go the wolf option?

It's all fair and just to say one thing but it's also good to state reasons, I am not having a go at you I would just like to hear your opinion(s) on why.

Edited by madness
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2042684
Share on other sites

If they are valid reasons post them up here, as i too would like to know why Wolf is not good.

I know that, even though the Pfc is a great ecu and highly regarded, it only has 6 load point (wolf=16) and does not have an air temp sensor. So on hot days you have to change your driving style where-as the wolf will automatically retard the ignition.

Don't mis-understand me, i am a big fan of the Pfc, as it has been proven to be a stable product, but i rate the Wolf at least as high as the Pfc. The wolf is a bitch to tune, but that is not you problem, but that is why alot of tunners don't like them, as they have no idea of all it's features and how to use them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2043117
Share on other sites

Thanks for that, I did ring them up spoke to Vic, He is more of a wolf specialist, he said to me that if I want to go the pfc route I should speak to Ben from race pace, all in all he was very nice to me and said to me that at the end of the day it's up to me to choose what i want. He's really passionate about what he dose which is a must.
That is exactly why i use him and listen to his advise. He is a "no bullshit" guy and if he can't do something, like tune a Pfc, he will direct you to the best in the industry. Having said that, there is no-one else i would go to for my spanner work, as he takes the time to do things properly. No reason why you can't use Vic for the spanner work and if you decide on the Pfc, to use another w/shop for tunning. I have a few mate's that do just that, and they too are very happy with Vic's workmanship.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2043135
Share on other sites

I like the fact that with a wolf they have a lifetime warranty and that they are a local product,

Also that they are roughly the same price as the PFC,

But one of my mates knows someone selling there PFC for $800 with hand controller.

That’s why I have asked the question.

I have been trying to way up the costs.

Now if I want to change airflow meters I will need to fork out an extra $$.

Ill just have a think about how much power do I want, because if I want big hp in the end I think it's going to be better to get a wolf for the fact that I can get away with not using afm as such and I don't need to buy a boost controller.

Like I said ill think about it and see if I can find out more about the two, i.e. same car same mods different ecu and compare the two. Value for money. Also I think two that in the end of the day it comes down to the tuner... Thanks again for all your help ppl ill keep you all posted as to what route to choose

, :dry:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2043277
Share on other sites

I like the fact that with a wolf they have a lifetime warranty and that they are a local product,

Also that they are roughly the same price as the PFC,

But one of my mates knows someone selling there PFC for $800 with hand controller.

That’s why I have asked the question.

I have been trying to way up the costs.

Now if I want to change airflow meters I will need to fork out an extra $$.

Ill just have a think about how much power do I want, because if I want big hp in the end I think it's going to be better to get a wolf for the fact that I can get away with not using afm as such and I don't need to buy a boost controller.

is a wolf a straight plug in ecu? or does it need to be wired up (which adds to cost). As one of the advantages of the PFC is that it is a straight plug in ecu with no extra work needed as far as sensors go.

And i also go to DrDrift in Brooklyn, he can remap your stock ecu which eliminates the need for aftermarket computers and the money can be spent on tuning + $ saving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2043822
Share on other sites

As far as i am aware they are a straight swap over same as the pfc and also comes with a base map so you too can drive it to a tuner.

I am still weighing up the cost's at the moment.

But it seems to me ( and i could be wrong here) that a lot of tuners are using the pfc. I think thats mainly because the wolf have a lot more features and more load points.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2045992
Share on other sites

:P I have heard different stories about their tunes........

care to elaborate on these?.... saying that Steve is pretty switched on i dont know about the rest of his crew but the man is quite well creditialed and has a long and proven record in all types of racing catagories.

hey im just throwing it out there as an option for the guy, you dont want someone like Dr drift tunning your car so he can handgrenade yet another car on the dyno :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2049285
Share on other sites

care to elaborate on these?....

hey im just throwing it out there as an option for the guy, you dont want someone like Dr drift tunning your car so he can handgrenade yet another car on the dyno :)

and could you elaborate on this?

send me a pm if you like :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2049713
Share on other sites

Both ECU's are good, I think you'll be happy either way. PFC is ace though as you simply remove the old ECU and Plug in the new. Very commonly used too. Lots of tuners and easy to remove if you ever need, about 5 mins work.
Wolf is also a direct plug-in. If you remove the afm ( :O ) all you do is plug it back in and block the extra vaccum/boost line going to the ecu.

Alot more tunners know how to tune the Pfc and it is easier to find another w/shop should you decide to change. Start-up is a little quicker (sometimes) than the wolf.

Wolf has PIN security start-up, that can be enabled and disabled at will, air temp compensation, 4 extra AUX outputs, boost controll via you standard solenoide, and other things that the Pfc unfortunately lacks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110683-hi-alll/#findComment-2050812
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...