Jump to content
SAU Community

Timing Belt

Winner1

By Winner1,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

ranicx Veteran

ranicx

Posted
Posted

timing belt change its self is usaly around 500.. but then ya gota thing about a few other things that are due to go soon, or have a tendency to break.. water pump, and a few bearings too.. mite be an idea to get them changed wile ya at it. but that will put the cost up a fare bit as i think a new water pump is around $300 on its own, but it would be worth it, because taking the belt off again to change the pump would cost abit in labour

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2047985
Share on other sites
BOVed Community Regular

BOVed

Posted
Posted
timing belt change its self is usaly around 500.. but then ya gota thing about a few other things that are due to go soon, or have a tendency to break.. water pump, and a few bearings too.. mite be an idea to get them changed wile ya at it. but that will put the cost up a fare bit as i think a new water pump is around $300 on its own, but it would be worth it, because taking the belt off again to change the pump would cost abit in labour

I need to change my belt too, so I'll change these others as well, which bearings do you mean? :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2053662
Share on other sites
Fugi Community Regular

Fugi

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

i just wanted to warn anybody who didnt know that if the timing belt dosnt go on properly u get big problems.

i got mine done by a retired mechanic/ famly freind and he has done many timing belts. But he said my R32 GTSt was very difficult. Then my car was rinning very poor so i took to my other mehanic. my other mechanic noticed it wasnt put on right and that because of that my valves were bent and worn down.

ended up costing me $1500.

so i dont want anyone makin same mestake as me so make sure the mecanic has done skylines befor.

anyways just thought id share.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2053938
Share on other sites
spx25t Community Regular

spx25t

Posted
Posted (edited)
how the hell do you find everything so cheap SPX25T????? or are everyones elses qoutes with labour included??

I am only quoting the price of the parts I am changing my timing belt and waterpump this weekend myself with a couple of friends who are mechanics by trade.

I would say other prices are with Labour.

in regards to the waterpump the RB25 waterpump is the same as the RB30 waterpump(so I have been informed will be able to answer that properly on Saturday) so instead of asking for a hard to get Japanese import asking for a local Rb30 part is cheaper

also friends with Autobarn Villawood.

Edited by spx25t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2058979
Share on other sites
Triskillion Collaborator

Triskillion

Posted
Posted

considering alot of imports are still under 100k's some workshop out there should do a big discount for SAU... think about if everyone from sau went to the one shop for a 100k service.....

ps if some sponsors gonna do this make sure its within the next 2 months coz thats when mines due!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2059848
Share on other sites
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

A standard timing belt change, should also include changing of the tensioner and idler pullies. Also the two camshaft seals and front crank seal should be changed as well.

(If you buy a timing belt kit, all of the above would be included, not that you can probally get a kit for 25, but any other local engine for eg)

Water pump is always a wise idea as well on RB engines. They can last a very long time, but they can also leak unexpectantly, so if you can't easily change the part in the future yourself or don't have the $ to pay for labour twice, get it all done at once.

If you don't do the seals regularly they harden up and have the potential to leak, but more so they wear a groove into the crank/cam and in the future if it wears enough, a new seal won't stop the leak, you will have to use a speedy sleeve over the shaft.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2061074
Share on other sites
Taso84 Mentor

Taso84

Posted
Posted
Hey everyone,

i just wanted to warn anybody who didnt know that if the timing belt dosnt go on properly u get big problems.

i got mine done by a retired mechanic/ famly freind and he has done many timing belts. But he said my R32 GTSt was very difficult. Then my car was rinning very poor so i took to my other mehanic. my other mechanic noticed it wasnt put on right and that because of that my valves were bent and worn down.

ended up costing me $1500.

so i dont want anyone makin same mestake as me so make sure the mecanic has done skylines befor.

anyways just thought id share.

How do u know if its been put on properly on not. Mine got recently put on, its running ok but the timing belt is making this wierd noise. If i take it to a tuner, say AVO for example, would they check this out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2065713
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

Could even be the idler or tensioner not adjusted onto the belt properly, so it's slapping around as it turns. This, or either of those two bearings could be worn and noisy.

I'm doing my timing belt, drivebelts, idler and tensioner in two weeks time... well, my mate will do most of it because he's done it a couple of times before. =-]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2066551
Share on other sites
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Aftermarket seals about $5 each from any spare parts shop. (Same seal as used in RB30, so just ask for VL Comm/R31 Skyline crank or cam seals, same part for all the seals crank and cams on all RB engines)

Get genuine seals if you want about $15 each though. (I use aftermarket on all my RB engines, without drama)

There is a thread with the part no's for the tensioner and idler, tensioner is about $40 and idler around $60 aftermarket from any bearing store/supplier.

Can go genuine as well but they are like $100+each bearing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110763-timing-belt/#findComment-2068278
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to it's full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so damn hot in there, that made it all the more easy to remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Bwagz
      Engine model

      By Bwagz · Posted

      Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • MBS206
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Piggaz
      Garrett G Series

      By Piggaz · Posted

      Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...