Jump to content
SAU Community

Geniun 40th Anniversary B/kit

Soulblighter

By Soulblighter,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Soulblighter Community Regular

Soulblighter

Posted
Posted

I was searching for skyline stuff on Ebay one night and came across this car...

1998 40th Anniversary Skyline on Ebay

Im really interested in finding a front bar the same as that, original if possible.

I have a 400R kit on my S2 R33 atm but being fibre glass, speed bumps and drive ways are not too kind to it.

Can anyone give me some idea on how and where to get it.

I messaged the seller and he advised me that it is a genuin 40th anniversary kit.

Any ideas on how to go about getting one for my car?

Any help would be muchly appreciated.

Thanks in advance gang.

post-21595-1143073160.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/110785-geniun-40th-anniversary-bkit/
Share on other sites
Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
I was searching for skyline stuff on Ebay one night and came across this car...

1998 40th Anniversary Skyline on Ebay

Im really interested in finding a front bar the same as that, original if possible.

I have a 400R kit on my S2 R33 atm but being fibre glass, speed bumps and drive ways are not too kind to it.

Can anyone give me some idea on how and where to get it.

I messaged the seller and he advised me that it is a genuin 40th anniversary kit.

Any ideas on how to go about getting one for my car?

Any help would be muchly appreciated.

Thanks in advance gang.

I may be wrong, but I dont think the 40th anniversary edition GTS-T's came with a specific kit, in fact every 40th anniversary edition I have seen has had the factory kit only.

I have not seen that front bar before and I wouldnt think that its a genuine Nissan part either, looks more like a typical a/m fibreglass replacement.

silver gts-t Grand Master

silver gts-t

Posted
Posted

the 40th anniversary did come with a different front bar, looks like a anorexic gtr front bar...

couple people have them on here, Links i think does and also racnix..

(i personally prefer the original S2 bar)

but the one in that pic looks after market

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah - check my pic - rancix is the same....

Sorry to dissapoint you - looks like he's full of shit..

Never seen that one before..

They were offered as a factory option vs. the stock S2 bumper..

Also side skirts as well I think (not 100% on that one)..

That one actually looks like a fibreglass bumper not a plastic one as per the stock ones.. "front bar is being replaired"

Edited by Links
Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted (edited)

As for getting one for you car..

You could probably order one from nissan *sAfrican American*.. also need to change where your blinkers are located (they are inclosed in a grey plastic part similar to the GTR ones).. and lose the spotlights..

Edited by Links
woolls Experienced

woolls

Posted
Posted

Some of the 40th anniversary models did come out with this kit. You can buy a front bar from unique autosports for $550.00 less indicators.they are $190. each. here are the links.

cheers

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists.../gtrbargtst.jpg

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/

Soulblighter Community Regular

Soulblighter

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for all your replies everyone.

Appreciate the time and effort you all took to post.

Thankyou.

No my only dilema is...

To keep the 400R front and repair the cracks...

Or to try and source a genium plastic front bar.

Are the geniun plastic ones harder to damage or are they pretty much the same as the fibre glass ones.

And if im planning on installing a FMIC, would a geniun one be suitable? i know i might have to cut out some sections of the original ones to fit it.

Would that be better and look cleaner? or stick with the 400R?

I also see that the 400R front is worth about $500 or so. That is another factor of keeping it too.

What do you all think?

The pics bellow show the cracks.

First pic: front view: bottom of the bar: whole bar is split.

Second pic. Crack near top corner near light (1).

Also Gutter scrapes (2)

And pretty much the same on the other side

post-21595-1143094026.jpg

post-21595-1143094296.jpg

Edited by Soulblighter
wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted

If money is no problem then here's an option for you.

http://www.powerplayimports.com.au

Speak to tosh, or jo. Tosh is on the forums here SW20GT or something.

East Bear in Japan make a replica GTR front bar for the GTST. It is two piece just like the real thing, and is also plastic!! Not cheap-arse fibreglass, IIRC.

East Bear fit is perfect too. I have one of their bonnets, I put it on without any adjustment or modification. Straight on, perfect fit.

But you'll be paying > $1000 for the GTR-style front bar, unpainted. Looks just like the real thing btw. First time I saw one I asked the guy how the hell he fit a genuine one on there. I was shocked when he said, "it isn't...It's East Bear"

ranicx Veteran

ranicx

Posted
Posted

its a s1.5 wil, get it right, lol... mixture of both s1 and 2

Are the geniun plastic ones harder to damage or are they pretty much the same as the fibre glass ones.

ive hit mine on the bottom a few times and on the front (into soft things in the garage) and they mostly just bend then bounce back, doesnt crack at all. but it will still scratch like normal plastic, its just alot more forgiving.

paulsid Enthusiast

paulsid

Posted
Posted
all East Bear Sports prices have been revised on our website... email me for further enquiries... discounts are offered at point of sale

Cheers,

Tosh

Powerplay Imports

Hey,

I have to say it.. Given your product range and projected image...you guys are in dire need of a new website..

If this is of any interest feel free to send me a PM.

Cheers,

Paul.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...