Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 164
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I pulled 242rwhp with only a pod and 3' exhaust out of the turbo in an auto with the rb2.5t on psi s dyno in perth

then had a front mount and eboost and did 244rwhp at 8 psi and then 250 at 10psi on xspeeds dyno

both places said they had never seen an auto pull that much with thous mods only

james

Ignition system seems to play a part in the power differences perhaps.

I notice that many of the curves are similar on 240/50rwhp cars to the 300ish ones, with the difference coming in up top. If the spark isn't as clean this could account for the power difference. The coils and wires under the cover get very very hot and this effects resistance and reduces the efficiency of wires over time with heat cycling.

no way r33's can make that much power.

the above poster is claiming 267.2rwhp on stock boost stock turbo, HELLO THATS IMPOSSIBLE.

r34 gtts with running 12-14psi with powercf, hi flow exhaust etc etc are only making 260-270HP on the stock turbo.

Edited by noise

I am pretty sure that 25 neo's can only do 195-205rwkw max from stock turbo.

Thats 261.50-274.90rwhp.

how is an older less powerfull rb25 going to put out more power with fewer mods?

it isnt, stop talking shit.

or point me in the direction of threads of people posting dyno sheets to show otherwise.

i dont know why yours didnt make more then 270 rwhp

Shall I direct you to threads showing you this? how about you go to a workshop with a database of dyno sheets and look at them?

I didnt even own the car when it made the power, so i have no need whatsoever to talk it up. Those numbers where made on a DD accredited dyno

The car had

A garrett cooler, not gtr sized, just under.

A mettams morley dump and front, leading into a apexi cat back. 3 inch hi flow cat

11 psi

Walbro fuel pump

KN air filter

s2 motor

manual

standard timing

272 rwhp.

www.antilag.com/personal/tom/my31 for pics of the engine bay etc, so you can see it wasnt packing a hidden t88 etc.

tj

and back to the argument ... 319 rwhp is very very very hard to believe

Edited by dan_the_man
I am pretty sure that 25 neo's can only do 195-205rwkw max from stock turbo.

Thats 261.50-274.90rwhp.

how is an older less powerfull rb25 going to put out more power with fewer mods?

it isnt, stop talking shit.

or point me in the direction of threads of people posting dyno sheets to show otherwise.

umm ok...

im not saying 319rwhp is possable...

but why have many not just one or two, rb25 run between 280-300rwhp on stock turbo?

just because ur r34 didnt make it, doesnt mean its not possable for another rb25 power cars to do it

I pulled 242rwhp with only a pod and 3' exhaust out of the turbo in an auto with the rb2.5t on psi s dyno in perth

then had a front mount and eboost and did 244rwhp at 8 psi and then 250 at 10psi on xspeeds dyno

both places said they had never seen an auto pull that much with thous mods only

james

Hey James! man hows that happening? I only got 202rwhp with 3" exhaust & POD! Damn I'm pisst! What PSI was it at b4 FMIC etc?

Back to the basics,Im sure there not stock but they sure look untouched.

NEO engines have nastie combustion chambers for polution reasons and will ping at less timing than an R33 RB25.

Some shops are not aware the NEO head is different,A few weeks ago a shop removed the head of a NEO fitted to an R33 finding it looked different told the guy the head was an NA head and had to be replaced.

So yes theres lots of misinformation around.

Some strange things have happend to new cars like in the early 70s Fords GTHO Phase 4 was shelved by the government (AS were GM etc)

so ford stuck some parts on a 2 door falcon and tagged it RPO87

the rest ended up in ZF Fairlanes without the new owners ever knowing

and over the years we saw stockers with Noddy iron 9in diffs winged sumps and 4V heads with 780cfm Carbs etc so who knows what may have happened with these cars,Prolly modded very early in life by very carefull mechanics?

got to remember that the dyno is a tuning aid at the end of the day. There is some value in relative comparisons but, not something people need to get hung up on if their car is doing what they want on the road or track. If your tuner is handing the car back to you with improved power characteristics this is what matters.

Some R33 gtst 200rwkw+ cars have run against my old R33 gtst (dyno of 170rwkw) and had an ass whipping both in 1/4 mile time and terminal speed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...