Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No it needs a manifold change but the STD one is total crap

any way. The turbo is a PER4MANZ design so the model

numbers are not important. This turbo has made 620RWHP

on a GTR with no more lag than STD GTR turbos.

Cost is about $6000 inc Turbo-gate-manifold and fitting,

and wont have the thrust wear problems that the

trust turbo has.

Any Turbo that uses the nasty RB25 manifold in a high power

application must be avoided, only good for mild power out

put.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11157-trust-turbos/#findComment-186040
Share on other sites

Rob,

I agree with Steve, the stock exhaust manifold design is dreadful, and whatever turbo you put on this should be removed. Plus if you want decent power then an external wastegate is the only way to go, most turbo's over 400hp only come in an external wastegate format.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11157-trust-turbos/#findComment-186103
Share on other sites

Maybe you should do a bit more research on these cause they are so different...

Trust turbos as well as any other come in various sizes trims hp ratings, Rob a TD06 on your car may be a bit laggy, depending on exhaust size.

Ex wastegate New manifold Dump, intake pipes, new oil and water lines

hhmm...heaps of easier options mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11157-trust-turbos/#findComment-186127
Share on other sites

It's not a cheap exercise by the time your finished, and determining the effect of the turbo on the car can be quite difficult. The best option is to get taken for a drive in a similar car to yours with the turbo done, then you can determin whether it is too laggy, enought power etc.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11157-trust-turbos/#findComment-186170
Share on other sites

HKS get the turbos from garret.

HKS have their own build spec. combo's that they put together from Garret parts.

These are what HKS believe offer the best performance for what ever goal HKS had in mind.

The same goals they have may not be yours however. So a turbo builder that has been around a while may have more to offer you in terms of a purpose built turbo for your needs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11157-trust-turbos/#findComment-186582
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rob77

So what turbo have you got macka? and what are you doing paul? when will you have new turbo?

Ive put a T4 compressor and wheel on the original R33 Original Ex housing with a T4 wheel

However still playing with it as i need a different comp wheel for smooth driveability and an external wastegate

Ill get there in 1 day

My opinion is the HKS have newer technological efficient turbos which spool perhaps slightly quicker due to design to wheels.

I would Jump at the chance however to own a Ballbearing GT series Garrett turbo and still get full spool by under 3500rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11157-trust-turbos/#findComment-186654
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...