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Bnr32 Rb26 Crank

felixy69

By felixy69,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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felixy69 Rising Star

felixy69

Posted
Posted

i am in the proccess of planning to rebuild my engine at the moment, and heard that there's a problem the R32's RB26 oiling system, and my build is aiming the 600-650hp range and i can't afford a NEW crank and they are like 300 000yen +

my question is, will stock rb26 crank support this hp range and be safe ?

what can i do to the stock crank to make it better ?

if i decide to buy a new crank what do you reccormend for CHEAP/Strong crank set up

i will be running N1 water pump so anything that compatible with that will be good

thanks

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Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Speak with Greg at Pro Engines in Queanbeyan near Canberra - 62995211. He has the answers to your Q's and the solution he may even pick up on this thread and answer directly.

http://www.proengines.com.au/

Edited by Sinista32
Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
i am in the proccess of planning to rebuild my engine at the moment, and heard that there's a problem the R32's RB26 oiling system, and my build is aiming the 600-650hp range and i can't afford a NEW crank and they are like 300 000yen +

my question is, will stock rb26 crank support this hp range and be safe ?

what can i do to the stock crank to make it better ?

if i decide to buy a new crank what do you reccormend for CHEAP/Strong crank set up

i will be running N1 water pump so anything that compatible with that will be good

thanks

You can buy a brand new R33 GTR crank for around $1000 but there is a length lead time out of Japan at the moment.

This is one of the most common upgrades for an R32 GTR engine build

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
i am in the proccess of planning to rebuild my engine at the moment, and heard that there's a problem the R32's RB26 oiling system, and my build is aiming the 600-650hp range and i can't afford a NEW crank and they are like 300 000yen +

my question is, will stock rb26 crank support this hp range and be safe ?

what can i do to the stock crank to make it better ?

if i decide to buy a new crank what do you reccormend for CHEAP/Strong crank set up

i will be running N1 water pump so anything that compatible with that will be good

thanks

I wouldn't be running an N1 water pump on a road car. They are designed to avoid cavitiation as sustained high rpm (as in circuit racing). Not a good idea on high power road car.

There are plenty of problems in RB oiling systems, I strongly suggest you do a search ("Sydneykid" and "+oil+restrictors")

Fitting a wide oil pump drive flange collar to the R32 crank is a good idea, for more details do a search ("Sydneykid" and "+adaptor+collar")

:sweat: cheers :(

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted
I wouldn't be running an N1 water pump on a road car. They are designed to avoid cavitiation as sustained high rpm (as in circuit racing). Not a good idea on high power road car.

There are plenty of problems in RB oiling systems, I strongly suggest you do a search ("Sydneykid" and "+oil+restrictors")

Fitting a wide oil pump drive flange collar to the R32 crank is a good idea, for more details do a search ("Sydneykid" and "+adaptor+collar")

:P cheers :sleep:

hey sydneykid just off topic abit but my rb26 running an n1 water pump and it never ever gets over 1/2 on the temp gauge even after an hour on the dyno, though only light tune to 4000rpm, well see on the proper tune. what point rpm range does it not work correctly? low rpm i'd imagine? i know the blades inside are huge in comparision to my stock old pump.

thanks

Brad

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
hey sydneykid just off topic abit but my rb26 running an n1 water pump and it never ever gets over 1/2 on the temp gauge even after an hour on the dyno, though only light tune to 4000rpm, well see on the proper tune. what point rpm range does it not work correctly? low rpm i'd imagine? i know the blades inside are huge in comparision to my stock old pump.

thanks

Brad

Hi Brad, they work great at 4,000 rpm, but they don't work so good at idle, in traffice with the aircon on for a 40 degree day. They simply don't move enough water at low rpm. That's so they don't get cavitation at high rpm. Lots of guys forget what "N1" really means, that is quite specifically designed for circuit racing, sustained high rpm for hours. What N1 doesn't mean is "better than standard in all conditions".

An example, I had a guy chasing a water temp problem in his Targa GTR while driving/idling between events. Tried a low temp thermostat, all that meant was it wouldn't warm up for ages on cold days. It ran rich as, because the ECU thought it was still cold and fouled plugs. He then threw a PWR 50mm radiator at it, still ran hot engine temperatures. He cheaked the head gasket, swappped sensors and gauges, spent heaps and the problem was still there. In desperation he rang me and I asked the obvious question" N1 water pump?". The answer was "yes" so I suggested trying a standard R33GTR water pump. I took me a week to convince him to at least try it. Bingo, no more engine water temp problems.

:P cheers :sleep:

Edited by Sydneykid

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