Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, my 165rw/kw is getting bit too plain now.. Needing more shove in the back acceleration :D My R33 is virtually stock as a rock except for the 3" split dump and 3" exhaust and K&N panel filter... Now my next mods are:

FMIC

Aftermarket ECU + Boost Controller

Injectors

Fuel Pump

My questions is, what specs of each Mod should I go for in order to accommodate future engine re-build or larger turbo... in other words what FMIC size would be good enough for a larger or hi-flowed turbo and 15+ psi? What size injectors and fuel pump would be sufficient for 250+rw/kw applications? etc...

Another thing, what mods are recommended to increase bottom end power? up until 4500 RPM when the VCT kicks in, there isn’t much power on bottom end as shown on my dyno graph...

post-23753-1143955584.jpg

Thanks heaps guys! Any info will be greatly appreciated!!!

Kind Regards,

Sarkis

Well R33's come out of the factory with a lead+iron composite monocoque, so acceleration is a problem :D.

ECU+EBC will help bring the full boost on earlier. For 250kw+ you will need to look at injectors, fuel pump (Bosch 040/044) and a bigger turbo.

the first question to ask is what do you want to do with the car?

from there you may have an idea about what sort of accelleration, handling and braking you want to aim for in a compromise with driving in traffic.

Power is only one aspect.

i dont belive that you will need injectors for 250 as i have 300 rwkw with stock ones but i suggest you get a huge mofo pump like a 044 and a bigger fuel pressure reg a ecu and bigger turbo fmic ebc and bobs your uncle if he can tune lol

Ummm nope, injectors and pump in R33's are meant to be at max around the 200rwkw from what i beleive....

he isnt talking about a standard pump he is talking about having a huge pump and fuel reg to achieve the absolute max out of standard injectors. Whether you could achieve 300rwkw im not agreeing though you certainly achieve more then 200rwkw with various other fuel system modifications.

Ummm nope, injectors and pump in R33's are meant to be at max around the 200rwkw from what i beleive....

umm yes you can maybe you should try it as i have i have a bosch 044 motorsport pump surge tank malpassi rise n rate fuel pressure reg and i get more than enough fuel for my car

pick a power figure and how much money you have then aim for that, dont pick one and then go ill maybe change it later on cos you may buy the wrong parts. my advice go for a drive in a 200rwkw skyline and then decide. its at least 6k of parts involved to get 200rwkw. my next step for your car would be ecu and fmic + boost controller.

yeah but it wont drive no where near as nice and safe as a properly tuned and setup car. ie ecu, fuel pump, split dump exhaust. and i would also doubt that power without a piggyback

fmic 1200

exhust 1200

ecu 1000

boost controller 300

tyres 500

suspension 1000

cold air intake 350

thats using rough pricing, which is reasonable also

sorry i wasnt talking about suspension i was just talking about motor mods

yes i belive he might have something wrong with those injectors at 90% with my power i have at the moment im overfueling the car and thats with over 300rwkw

This is a package i do regularly for customers.

1) Walbro 500hp intank pump $310.........no need for surge tank or reg etc.

2) Hi flow turbo (bush bearing) $1350.......uses all factory plumbing & ducting

3) Apexi Power FC $950..........plug in, no installation cost.

4) eBoost1 on special for $550.........note that car will see 15psi with hiflow turbo. so if thats enough, you wont have to worry about boost controller & sometimes can get away without computer. If yor looking to run anymore boost then ECU and EBC are necessary.

5) Good quality intercooler & pipework, either PWR or Hyperflow core with long pipe being before core and not after like you see on most cheap kits. $1000

6) Good quality split dump & cat, whic you already have.

This package is extremely streetable, cheap to install and retains stock appearance under the bonnet.

Will see between 200kw 230kw.

Tune car & see what you make, upgrade injectors where necessary.

Ok guys, my 165rw/kw is getting bit too plain now.. Needing more shove in the back acceleration :( My R33 is virtually stock as a rock except for the 3" split dump and 3" exhaust and K&N panel filter... Now my next mods are:

FMIC

Aftermarket ECU + Boost Controller

Injectors

Fuel Pump

My questions is, what specs of each Mod should I go for in order to accommodate future engine re-build or larger turbo... in other words what FMIC size would be good enough for a larger or hi-flowed turbo and 15+ psi? What size injectors and fuel pump would be sufficient for 250+rw/kw applications? etc...

Another thing, what mods are recommended to increase bottom end power? up until 4500 RPM when the VCT kicks in, there isn’t much power on bottom end as shown on my dyno graph...

post-23753-1143955584.jpg

Thanks heaps guys! Any info will be greatly appreciated!!!

Kind Regards,

Sarkis

Edited by Bezerkly

hahah oh ok..

Hey Paul, what is your thoughts on nankangs?

They have them around the corner from my house (45-235-17) for $150 balanced and fitted. Ive heard drifters use them even in competition. Though I guess grip isnt an issue.

I previously had bridgestone Re040's which were around $330.

cheers

Thats each aswell not for 2 hahahahah

off topic but ive tried pzero's 255, dunzlop dz101's 255 and now hankooks 255. i never heard anything good about the nanhanks and sound like a cheap tyre to me. good rubber is generally a fair bit, i was suprised on the pricing for the hankooks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...