Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I was driving home today on the Monaro Hwy, when I turned into the right turning lane to go up Long Gully Rd (the tip road) When a truck failed to stop at the give way sign and took me out! The front of the R32 is all smashed up. No more front bar (after I just got it fixed!!!) and the new FMIC is also stuffed, along with the radiator, battery, both headlights, engine fan, bonnet, 2 guards. I dont know if the other dudes insurance will wright it off or repair it (at least he had insurance). I guess we will just see what happens.

When I called the cops I asked them to put CJ (my boss) as the rostered tow truck. That way I dont have to pay much for the tow and the car is kept in our storage yard.

Ill have pics to post up tomorrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112503-here-today-gone-tomorrow-crash/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Alot of drivers seem to see the last second of an orange light as a dare to cross rather than a signal to stop...

Sucks to hear man, hope this can be sorted with minimal stuffing around.

Edited by Sauce

Yeah. The radiator is sitting flush with the timing belt cover. The water pump and fan are both wreaked. The price for parts atm is $250 for each headlight $165 for each guard, $300 for a bonnet, $900 for a front cut with the radiator, a/c condenser and all that. The engine will have to be removed, the engine bay striped and then the entire front from the pillars forward unstitched and removed. This is all assuming that the chassis is not to bent.

At $75 - $100 an hour it is gonna be a huge job.

More than likely a write off, have seen skylines with less damage written off because most insurance companies couldnt be bothered dealing with Nissan Australia/Japan to get the parts.

Where did you get the pricing for the panels etc? If its an insurance repair they will 99% of the time only use genuine brand new Nissan parts, which are hellishly expensive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...