Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

;) Hiya's all, after a little bit of info from you'se all!

My Stagea is due for a 5000km oil change, etc. Its done just under 5000kms since I bought it, but in that time Ive had a couple of dyno sessions, etc.

Id like to drop the oil, change it, and do the oil filter as well. Thats going to happen tomorrow (fri 7/4/6) when my castor bushes are installed and the suspn work retightened 9after the initial 100km rundown).

What oil would you all suggest? Im thinking Mobil 1? Also, is the oil filter the same as a standrad R33 one, and if thats the case, does anyone know the genuine Nissan part number?

Also, what else should be 'touched' at a basic 5000km oil change?

Cheers, Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112563-stagea-5000km-service/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi Brendan, we only use Castrol lubricants in all the cars, so my Stagea has Edge 10W60 in it. At 5,000 k's I do the usual fluids check, radiator, auto trans, washer bottle fill, brake fluid, tyre pressures, ATTESA reservoir, all the globes (there is always one out somewhere, usually dash), brake pad thickness and brake hose condition. Then I do a quick whip around with the spanners and check the tightness of all of the non standard stuff. Lastly I make sure the wheel nuts can be removed by the female drivers (that's not more than 70 ft/lbs on the tension wrench).

:O cheers :D

PS; I also check the toe and camber settings, because I can ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
:O cheers :D

PS; I also check the toe and camber settings, because I can ;)

LOL :)

Ta mate! Thanks for that advice.

I know the globes are all good (besides one in the A/C dash area), and the tyres are 2 weeks old, so thats all good too. I'll ask him to have a quick look at the fluids of the car - cheers. With the toe and camber settings I'll leave that until I have a wheel alignment!

Query: is the castrol Edge better than mobile 1? I thought Mobile 1 was premium oil......... I used to use it in my V8 BT1 commodore.

Brendan

PS Gary - Got to say, Im a fan of the suspension components I bought from you - thank you very much again for all of that. The Bilstein shocks are a touch hard, but nice nonetheless; they have done 30kms now! And Im happy that Im using the standard springs. Heights are 370mm all round, so I might drop 1 circlip at each corner, eventually. The standard shocks were weeping, and basically rooted. Glad I did the group buy.

A touch hard, but f**k do they handle in twisty stuff! ;)

I use castrol GTX3 at the moment, but my next change will be with Synthetic R, it might be 3 times the price, but i do give it a pretty hard life, might as well spend that extra $10 a month and give her the best, so i can treat her like i do :thumbsup:

Aaahhh good ol Mobil 1. I remember my bike riding days in the mid 80's when we used Mobil 1 'cause a racer friend swore by it and it cost a little under $30 for 4L. But then good oil in those days was around $10-15. Then everyone else found out Mobil 1 was good, then the price went up to $40. Then $45. Stopped buying it then as a personal protest at the price. The rest is history and $30 looks cheap.

Bob Romano has seen a 30Hp increase on the dyno in large (old) V8s just with an oil change from basic oil to Mobil 1.

Brendon, The oil filter part no. is elsewhere on a thread. I believe RYCO is 145A.

I recently used a Fleetguard SF 3434 filter. $9, available from any industrial filter shop - trucking good quality. Oil was Nulon 10W40 cheap for 6L - you'll need 5 min.

cheers

Wazza

P.S Good idea to hose the subframe around the filter before pulling it off as I dont know of anyway you can avoid spilling some out of the filter when you undo it.

P.P.S The crush washer you will need for the sump plug is only about 12-13mm in dia.

Edited by 3intheBack
  • 2 months later...

Hi Guys,

Just picked up my stagea and doing the once over.... first thing I have notcied is that the 4wd fluid in the back wagon section of the car is really low... i have some Castrol TQ Dexron III auto trans fluid... can anyone tell me if that suitable for the 4wd fluid? Would like to know so I can top it up????

Cheers

Hi Guys,

Just picked up my stagea and doing the once over.... first thing I have notcied is that the 4wd fluid in the back wagon section of the car is really low... i have some Castrol TQ Dexron III auto trans fluid... can anyone tell me if that suitable for the 4wd fluid? Would like to know so I can top it up????

Cheers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=61606&st=0

see page 1; reading that Id suggest that yeah your fluid would be suitable - I better check mine too!

or see alexcim's setup: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...117723&hl=fluid

Edited by Tangles

I have used 'Penrite' oils for the last 10 years. I used it when I raced my RX2 as a club car for 4 years, that was a good test. Never had a need to change brands. Since owning the stagea I have used HPR 10 eng. oil. Have been quoted MGO75 for Attessa (am going to double check), SIN 75 for the diffs. I fitted DC tranny cooler 2day and topped up with SIN ATF.

  • 1 month later...
:D Hiya's all, after a little bit of info from you'se all!

My Stagea is due for a 5000km oil change, etc. Its done just under 5000kms since I bought it, but in that time Ive had a couple of dyno sessions, etc.

Id like to drop the oil, change it, and do the oil filter as well. Thats going to happen tomorrow (fri 7/4/6) when my castor bushes are installed and the suspn work retightened 9after the initial 100km rundown).

What oil would you all suggest? Im thinking Mobil 1? Also, is the oil filter the same as a standrad R33 one, and if thats the case, does anyone know the genuine Nissan part number?

Also, what else should be 'touched' at a basic 5000km oil change?

Cheers, Brendan

I use Mobil synbthetics 15w/50. Castrol oils and mobil oils works very different from each other. And im not going to disscuss this over the forum w/o getting shot myself from people. All in all Castrol do not make their own oils :( . That infor is from years ago the sub contract it out. So that tells you all. And thats the only thing im prepared to say.

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetics for all my cars. My lancruiser even uses Mobil Super S anf now its clocking 200k on the dial and still smooth as silk.

Tnangles we can discuss this over MSN if you want later in the afternoon after i get back or if not tommorow.

hey stageagirl have a look at the groupbuy section for the quick change oil valve and you won't need to find/buy a crush washer ever again!!!

i think i worked out how to put in a link ? have a look here and see what ya reckon?

oh and by the way i agree with you on the ban stupid people, not dogs bit!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...127757&st=0

Edited by oxford1327
I use Mobil synbthetics 15w/50. Castrol oils and mobil oils works very different from each other. And im not going to disscuss this over the forum w/o getting shot myself from people. All in all Castrol do not make their own oils :pirate: . That infor is from years ago the sub contract it out. So that tells you all. And thats the only thing im prepared to say.

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetics for all my cars. My lancruiser even uses Mobil Super S anf now its clocking 200k on the dial and still smooth as silk.

Tnangles we can discuss this over MSN if you want later in the afternoon after i get back or if not tommorow.

Fair enough - heard that myself on the grapevine too.

We used Penrite 5-60w oil.... seems the goods. Might go back to Mobile 1 when I do a highflow turbo, either that or Castrol Edge or the current Penrite stuff. Plenty of time tho, only do around 8000km per year. By the next oil change I hope to have one of the quick release valves too Ox!

Fair enough - heard that myself on the grapevine too.

We used Penrite 5-60w oil.... seems the goods. Might go back to Mobile 1 when I do a highflow turbo, either that or Castrol Edge or the current Penrite stuff. Plenty of time tho, only do around 8000km per year. By the next oil change I hope to have one of the quick release valves too Ox!

Mobil engine oil is able to absorb the carbon deposits from the engine keep the engine clean. thats why mobil oil wil always be black and gooy and castrol will be clean.

Mobil engine oil is able to absorb the carbon deposits from the engine keep the engine clean. thats why mobil oil wil always be black and gooy and castrol will be clean.

OOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHH Yeah.

you should have seen it ! very very black and very gluggy.............. changed right on time. Theres no way Id allow oils to sit in a Rb engine for 10000kms now, no way. 5000km oil changes for sure.

my car has just about ticked over 65,000kms... i do the above mentioned services every 5000ks, but when should i be doing major services such as belts etc? to be honest this is the first car ive had that im concerned about servicing, just because theres a lot more that can go wrong, and a lot more expense if you let it go.

What should i be booking it in for, and when?

Ive noticed it sometimes has dramas (often, nearly) with idling, and driving around carparks, that the revs like to drop right down to the point where powersteering goes real tight, and it takes a bit to pick up when i feed it a little throttle...

stock BOV over here. my engine is factory. DID have a boost guage, just for about a month, but have since removed and returned vac to standard. no pod.

So it beats me! thinking it may be a busted vac line somewhere, but can see anything...

I have a sticker under the bonnet that tells me about belts and the km's they should be changed. Timing belt needs to be done at 100,000kms :D I'll start saving now :P My car has 70,000kms... probably needs a timing belt now eh :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...