Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Saluations All.

This maybe obvious to some, and others may pretend to know.

But I've just picked up a new clutch. it appears to of the brass (? brass) button (the plate has five separate fingers with pads on each) type.

I've been told it'll hold onto 200RwKw easily (I'm no where near that). But I've also bveen told that if you don't know what your doing you can wear a button clutch out in a very very very very very very short time if you ride it - which of course is bad in any clutch.

I'm just interested how I'll have to adjust my driving style with this clutch, will I wear the clutch out if you ease off the lights, does it have to be rev and dump at every lights to protect the clutch ?

I don't ride the clutch at all unless I'm parking or doing general driving to work (rarely) and need to ease of the light...Will I wear the clutch out quickly from just this ? I take it, it will be a new expirence in the wet too!

PS. Its a R33GTS-t and the clutch was from a southern import jap shop.

Thanks any ifo/comments would help.

ps...why is a five finger clutch stronger then a full face ? I thought the more area of contact the stronger clamping you'd get.

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/
Share on other sites

The paddle/finger/button clutch is made of a different material, and the smaller area means more pressure on the paddles. From what I've been told do not ride the clutch at all, you should get used to taking off gently without riding it. It will never be as gentle as a sprung organic (Standard) clutch though.

Near the centre it's either a solid centre, or has a set of springs. The solid centre has NO give at all whereas sprung button clutch is slightly less harsh.

After having a sprung button in my car I will never go back, the sheer grip that it has is unreal, however the loss of smooth gear changes may not suit everyone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-23333
Share on other sites

Jimbo.... Dude, the twin plates are the next step up again from a button clutch. These have extreme clamping pressure and very high friction co-efficients. They are basicly on or off.... If you went back to a single plate clutch you may get smoother take off, but replace your clutch every month or two due to it not being able to cope with the power.

Sorry pal, that's the price of high performance, loss of comfort.

All I know is that I'd take performance over comfort anyday :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-24019
Share on other sites

I'm more than happy to use the clutch how it's meant to be used (on/off) but I've never driven a multiplate clutch before so I have no idea what I'm meant to do ;) I know it sounds dumb, but I'd love to ride with someone who has a multiplate and knows how to use it.

I'm certainly not after comfort, I just don't want the cops after me at every set of lights for losing traction, also how the hell are you meant to drive in city traffic ala. Parramatta Road ? I don't know about anyone else with a multiplate clutch, but I manage to look like a bunny wabbit on extasy trying to move along at a snails pace ......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-24140
Share on other sites

thats one of the many reasons i like working nights.

my 5 puck brasser ain't no twin plate, but smooth launchs can be difficult sometimes too... night shift = no traffic. I have stopped and waited before for the traffic to ease up cause my leg gets tired. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1128-clutchs/#findComment-24294
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...