Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

wonder if anyone could shed some light on this

i was gonna get a gtr front bar on my gtst r32

the gtr bar would b aftermarket that would fit a gtst but would the brackets on the inside need to b changed coz of the different shape or would it bolt on in the existing places?

if anyone has done anything similar or knows sum1 who has let me know how it went .

cheers

ps while where on the topic, how hard would it b to fil a r33 gtr bar on a r32

i think we've all seen it done but with how much difficulty?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11303-r32-gtr-front-bar-on-gtst/
Share on other sites

I was thinking about doin' this too, but with a R32 GTR bar for my GTS4.

Cos I need room for a intercooler but the standard one on now doesn't have a intake hole big enough for a core size around 600x300x80. Besides the bar isn't very well attatched, quite flimsy I might say.

I have a genuine GTR front bumper on my GTSt. How do i know? Well its a nissan stamped, PLASTIC bumper in the original 2 piece configuration that came on the GTR only. I also have the aluminium bonnet :P

It does fit well, and by the looks of things it doesnt look too difficult to do. The guards might be wider on the GTR, except they start and finish in the same place... they just bulge out more along the way.

A mechanic friend of mine whos had his R32 GTSt for years didnt think the original GTR bumpers fitted either until he saw mine.

Red17

I believe the GTR bars are roughly a couple of cm's wider either side. I have a gtr copy bar sitting @ home which i was going to put on my gts-t, but haven't yet.

I don't believe it is a major job. However i've seen a gts-t with a gtr front that fitted well one side, but had about a 5cm gap on the other side.

The way i see it is the guards on both cars must come back to roughly the same point in regards to the join of bar & guard.

You may be able to just bend/cut back etc the bar into the brackets or you may need to cut out a section in the middle and fibreglass/plastic weld it back together.

I would like to know 4 sure myself....

a friend of mine resparyed a gtst purple

and he had all genuine gtr front bar and quarters and bonnet, which in turn he had to change blinkers and bonnet latch.

i would like to c what the support behing the gtr's front bar looks like, from just looking at each of the bars it looks like the support of the gtst sticks out to much and that it would have to b cut or removed to put a gtr front on.

anyone seen the support b4 on either a gtr or gtst with gtr bar?

Be sure to buy an original GTR bar, ie plastic NOT FIBREGLASS.

The plastic can bend and be made to fit a lot easier then the stiff fibreglass can.

My GTR bar was made for a GTSt, or so wac the claim, and went nowhere near like fitting. Trust me and several people including a reputable body shop said too hard (ie too expensive)

So moral of my tale, original Plastic bar fits easier, wont crack when rubbing speed humps, or get an exchange/money back guarantee that the GTR come GTSt fibregalss bar will fit your car.

i just purchased the 2nd hand gtr front bar for my gtst, it is fibreglass unfortunatly. althought for $80 i think its a bargan.

i know for sure it will fit on a gtst coz thats what car it was on when i bought it. its made in japan, sum JBO brand, seems a lil thin, but will do seem like it will fit except for those rectangle holes on either side of the no. plate (dont know if they got a name). 1 bad thing bout the bar is that its cracked in several places but is easily fixed. i was quoted round $400 for everything to b done, cracks, painted, fitted, and a lil damage to my car bcoz of a lil bump. to me this price seems fair, if anyone thinks not let me know so i dont step in anything.

  • 1 year later...

I have a genuine GTR front bar on my 32 GTST and the fit isn't snug but it is the toughest bar ever! Plastic takes a hell of a beating on anything the concrete decides to throw at it -cept wildlife....My only complaint is the plastic lip doesn't hold up against curbs or speedbumps or steep driveways! Be warned as i think replacement genuine lips aren't cheap (who am i kidding...what Skyline stuff is????)

PS: The genuine bars make the GTST look a little wider from front views...very tough and cool!

  • 2 weeks later...

The plastic original gtr bars will fit straight onto the gtst's. You just have to attach the bar at the corners(ie blinkers) and then affix the bar from there. I have an original vspec2 gtr bar on mine. everybody and there dog said it would not fit. It would need so much modifiying it would not be funny, so, i gave it a go, and wallah.. fits like a glove with nmo mods.. i wonder where they go the idea from?

The bar sits natural with the gaurds. Sits level, doesnt bow out of shpe of the gaurds, sits level with the headlights.. Just like a bought one for the gtst. The bar is back of it again ready to be painted, and my cooler fitted. Thats why i bought the bar in the first place. I bought the bar of a user on this forum, who has a skyline too. I dotn have a digi cam.. but when i get access and the bar is on, i will take pics and post em up.

I've got an original gtr bar on my 32gtst and it fits nicely all I had to do was cut two slits in the bumper support and fold back the metal where the number plate notch is to stop the bar from sticking out. This is the only mod required. Trust me it has to be done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...