Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Engine Oil ?

Mid_Nite_R33

By Mid_Nite_R33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

Hi guys I thought I should add a story that I have

Recently my car started losing oil pressure, It was fine on cold start but as you drove around the pressure dropped to almost nothing and I was using a heap of oil as well, I was thinking the worst, till I read TO4GTRs thread about keeping that RB alive.

I had Motul 10w40 turbo light in the car and as the temperature built the oil simply couldnt cope and broke down becoming too thin for the pump to push properly

I changed to penrite 5w60 and problem solved so thnaks to dave for pointing me in the right direction, the penrite is about $20 cheaper too!

  • 4 years later...
Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted

What are peoples thoughts on PENRITE 5w60 Fully Syn?

I just ordered mine $120 for 5L. Guy at Supercheap showed me this:

http://royalpurple.com.au/article_images/oil_test_article.pdf?ptl=hot_rod_article.php?ptl=articles_oil_supplement.php

PDF file showing a test run by a magazine. Unsure whether to believe it or not(could be a big marketing ploy). Motul didnt do too well in that test, and neither did Mobil/Elf..

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

For anyone wanting more info it's all covered in the oils sticky whistling.gif

I used motul 8100 xcess, and loved it, until sougi s6000 came into my life. But that's dead and gone now sadly. The nulon "fully synth" was pretty good for a grade 3, cost a bit though when 4100 turbolight is cheaper.

Not sure if it's the same for gtr's, I'd imagine it is, but 10w40 is usually about right for aussie conditions with the normal number of kms on it.

There are a few conditions that have to be met by the viscosity of the oil, and it's all compromises:

-On start up it has to be thin enough to be pumped quickly to moving parts, yet thick enough to provide decent protection when there.

-You want it to be thick to provide decent protection for valves and cylinders, but thin enough to drain from the head to the sump properly.

They're the two big ones. 10w40 is usually accepted to be adequate for australia. The original nissan oil was 7.5w30, but many kms have been done since then and, more importantly, the weather conditions are different here.

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

How about Penrite Sin 5 (5W-60)?

I have a standard R32 GT-R, probably has like 120,000 km

Nissan recommend 7.5W - 30 in their books.

+ the R32 being engineered in the late 80's to early mid 90's, it would most probably be a Mineral Based engine oil.

I have used:

- Martini Racing 10W - 40, Full Synthetic = Very nice!

- Valvoline 20W - 50, Semi Synthetic = Bit too "thick" and car ran sluggish.

- Shell 15W - 50, Semi Synthetic = Was ok for the first 1000 kms then turn to shit.

- Mobil Synthetic S 10W - 40 (2000 X 2) Semi Synthetic = Best so far from what I have used and just before an oil change the car still runs well, once changed = Very smooth.

My mechanic has recommended Mobil Synthetic S and the car is running fine.

I think the Mobil has the closest viscosity to what the R32 GTR should run, but everyone has their own personal preference and recommendations.

Different cars will have different recommendations + if you car is modified (Mild to Heavy) and having internal mods done, you'd run a Full Synthetic as the engine will have different tolerances to stock and lightly modified cars.

Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just changed my oil today. Oil pressure on cold start up is down to around 5bar(7bar before). I used to run Elf fully sun 15w50(I think). Im also using a Veruspeed Nismo filter as well.

I noticed the engine was more responsive. I guess I'll keep an eye on it.

EDIT - I used Penrite 5w60 Fully syn oil. Bloody exp - $130/5L.

Edited by Ultimategtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...