Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, in another part of the forums put up a thread about a car i've looked at and wondering if I do go ahead with getting a mechanic to check it out who/where would be the best place.

Is there any places that have this service and do a full report? I saw the "where to get a skyline serviced" and am wondering if any of the places mentioned would be able to check this car out for me.

Thx guys.

well, yes, that's why that thread is there.

Before you buy a skyline, any skyline, get it checked!

There are some serious lemons out there and some that look great but are an explosion waiting to happen, go to Ed at Integra Automotive and have it checked there, he know's skylines.

But DO NOT buy a skyline without a thorough inspection first.

well, yes, that's why that thread is there.

Before you buy a skyline, any skyline, get it checked!

There are some serious lemons out there and some that look great but are an explosion waiting to happen,

This is very good advice. Especally GTR's, they can really hurt you..

Or just buy my awesome car :D

Hey again, sry net was out for the weekend... Some dude I know with a 33GTR said try J Racing but i've heard they are pretty average. Heard Trojan were ok and the guy that im looking to buy the 32 off has his GTR in there atm. Which is better Trojan or this Ed chap at Integra Automotive? How much does a complete check up cost i've never had this done before.

EDIT: and yeah I want a COMPLETE checkup, everything within reason checked to make sure. I don't wanna buy this 'fine' car and turns out tard of a mechanic missed a bunch of tiny things that end up costing me another 2 grand. I'm young damnit and money doesn't come fast when you work at woolies.

Edited by Orphan

Well car is in at trojan and had asked the dude to do the check up, compression test etc but now my dad wants it done at his mechanic ...cause its his mechanic.. basically. lol... so just getting a quick check up and written info on what the guy at trojan knows/has done to it run over there and pay him for me being a troublesome turd lol and then organise a time to see my dad's mechanic... ugh it sux living at home sometimes.

He has never bought a car that was more then 4 years old at the time and thinks all old cars will fall apart and have endless problems... unless his mechanic says its ok... the one he has been going to for a whole 6 months and doesn't actually know just leaves his car there and comes back serviced... Not being a dick I see where he is comming from... but yeah im the son and have to give the father shit.

lol oh well...

Edited by Orphan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, im asking about this guy - coil igniter on rb25det series 1 r33 s1 engine. I need to know if pins on coil side indicate coils itself from 1-6 or it’s firing order so pin nr1 goes to 1st fired spark plug:(1pin-1firing spark, 2pin-5order firing spark, 3-3, 4-6, 5-2, 6-4…)   photo: https://files.fm/f/k9pdug38uq
    • Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
    • Yeah, R34 with RB25DE likely has a 4AX01 box in it, which is a medium duty auto ~ with the RB25DET mill, it would've been fitted with 4AX00 (4AX13) heavy duty build (same case, different internals). An RB25DET will lunch on a medium duty 4R01 auto in pretty short order ...to give you some visual idea of differences between the 'medium' and 'heavy duty' boxes, you only have to look at the 2/4 band for comparison...it's chalk and cheese...(plus bigger high clutch, extra pinion in the planetary sets, higher oil pump output, different bearings, higher TC stall speed )... You can control them with just about any aftermarket TCU for electric-over 4-speed with TC lockup clutch (ie; the GM 4L60E and others)...I have a custom standalone TCU that includes MAP sensor (for turbo applications) along with TPS, RPM, and line pressure monitoring...in other words, I don't use any ECU signals...no real need to.
×
×
  • Create New...