Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto Trans Cooler... What If I Add A Thermofan?

WazR32GTSt

By WazR32GTSt,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

so i have an r32gtst with an automatic transmission (and yes, i like it like that)

about 2 years ago, my brain saw a light bulb and decided to make me fit a large trans cooler which i purchased cheaply from supercheap. it has never given me a problem and works well, and you can feel the warmth coming throug the cooler when you touch it after driving

BUT... instead of mounting the trans cooler in front of the radiator like it said, i decided to mount if in the front bumper on the drivers side, so its like a mirrored location of the stock intercooler. i cut a hole in the guard behind the trans cooler, and made some ducting so that air flows through the cooler, rather than around it.

recently, whilst pondering the damaging effects of a car sitting in traffic in the brisbane summer heat, i decided to make a switch that is in the dash that is connected to my electric aircon fan. when in traffic (or after a hard drive) i turn it on to get some extra airflow through the radiator. it makes a huge difference and i can feel the hot air from the drivers window if i place my hand out.

so it got me thinking (yeah, it hurts)... what if i mount a mini thermo fan onto the auto trans cooler, and wire it up in parallel with the aircon fan, so that when i flick the switch, the transmission is also cooled in those stressful traffic situations?

I did some ebaying (is that a word?) and found some 7" thermo fans that were pretty cheap.. is this going to make any difference at all, or am i barking up the wrong tree here?

any automatic guru's out there that want to shed some light?

thanking you kindly,

Warren

GTR_STEALTH Proficient

GTR_STEALTH

Posted
Posted

You could give it a go...

Although i'd go for having a direct switch you can control from the cabin...Maybe go for the switches that light up when on so you dont forget to turn it off.....

pkblade Experienced

pkblade

Posted
Posted

There are off-the-shelf tran coolers that come with fans already attached but, normally you would have one if the cooler is placed somewhere with limited air-flow.

Yes, the fan will cool the fluids down while in traffic, but if you place it infront of the cooler it may restrict the cooling capabilities of the cooler while the fan is off during cruising speeds. Is the fan reversible (ie. can it suck air)? If the fan is reversible & space permitting I'd place it behind the trans cooler.

But, as Craved suggested if the current position is receiving sufficent air flow I wouldn't think one is necessary.

TurboX Mentor

TurboX

Posted
Posted

Great to see someone else is not afraid to voice a positive opinion on an Auto Skyline.

I also prefer the Auto although tricked up and with a 2700RPM high stall converter.

For this reason I have a massive aircond condensor as a cooler with two 12v dc Computer fans on it in place of the original I/C -as heat is the killer of auto's -especially when stalling up on the line :ban:

You cant do enough to keep the trans fluid temps down and prolong the life of the trans as far as I am concerned even if you dont stall it up often.

4door_Sleeper Veteran

4door_Sleeper

Posted
Posted

I'm not opposed to the idea, but just wondering if its needed.

If the car is idling at the lights on a hot day, the trans isnt really generating a lot of heat (this occurs when you torque it up)

If you already have a trans cooler it would have better cooling than a standard car, (and stock autos dont have many problems) and I would be a little worried that the fan might restrict air flow and in effect make it worse when you are driving, and when the trans IS making heat.

I am a big fan of trans coolers (I have one on my auto) but im not sure if the fan will offer a lot of benifits

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

perhaps not mounting it directly on the cooler itself then and just blowing air onto the cooler. wont cause any restriction of the air flow when moving, and will keep air moving passed it when stationary..

best of both worlds i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RA708
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By RA708 · Posted

      Oh ok that makes so much sense. Thanks for clearing it up!
    • MBS206
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And these modern "environmentally friendly" EV vehicles also run on the same smoke! When the engine, wiring, or batteries let it escape it also stops running!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah - I found the same information too.. 30% open is like 85% of flow etc. So it's probably going to be minor if not completely imperceptible. I also have a larger pod filter here, will swap that on and see if there's any difference. The hardest part is finding a place to uh, test this. It's quite noticable just how much having ducting to the otherwise completely open pod cools the intake temps down. It's better boxed, or shielded but driving for 30 seconds really makes it plummet to near ambient temperatures. I recall in the past when I was a RB land and had a nice flowing airbox -  - Then I took the lid off and put a pod there, and gained 9 psi of boost and about 60kw from the restriction I didn't know I had - with the controller at same duty cycle. However finding people using over the radiator intakes having similar KPA drops at WOT on built setups makes me think there restriction could be the exhaust or potentially the headers. Either way though, there's no real estate to play with and nothing that can realistically be done about it. The original dyno plot without the airbox, and the larger pod had a better curve. It was later I added the ducting and airbox, and a smaller pod to make it fit in there...
    • GTSBoy
      Is there a good place to learn how an engine works online?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's not completely truthful now is it? Any flex fuelled factory cars also had the option to run on steam.
    • Duncan
      R33 general questions

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah so I guess your mechanic would know turnaround better than me....but I would have thought you had access to same day or overnight rack rebuilds there....any big city here in Australia has that service.   There are a couple of o-rings and seals involved, I guess the risk is the part is specific not general. Other option is if you can have it on stands in your garage for a while, steering rack removal is pretty simple (2 mounting brackets, 2 ball joints (separate by undoing the nut to the top of the threads, put a pry bar between the steering arm and control arm to put pressure on it then medium force on the side of the ball joint or top of the nut with a hammer to break it free) and then the trickiest bit is the splines to the steering rack (not too bad to undo, one nut then it slides out, but mark it first so you can reassemble it straight)
×
×
  • Create New...