Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i just purchased my r33 gtst 2 weeks ago, n noticed a small oil leak on the floor, became bigger everytime i drove it and had a look at the prob 2nite..

there was 4lts excess oil put into the motor that i drained out, the car does run smooth and fine, with no misses, but does drink a fair bit of feul (60bucks to fill and only 280km's? grandma driving).

i cleaned out all the piping from the cooler to t/b, but didnt get to to the other side.... i then took it for a test drive to come back and find it dripping again, coming out of 1 of the welds on the cooler piping that goes to the t/body.

car has done roughly 100,000km's, and will get compression tested on saturday

could this be blow by? or just the car having 4litres excess of oil?

mods are gtr cooler, zorst, pod, feul pump(unknown but big), stock boost

please help asap, as i still hava 3month warrenty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115960-oil-in-cooler-pipes/
Share on other sites

firstly i'd replace that pipe with the dodgy welding.

it could be blow by.. best way to tell would be to get a catch can properly installed.

the compression test will tell you alot though.

it could also be a blown oil seal on your turbo.

I agree with a possible turbo oil-leak. There will always be a little bit of oil coating the intake pipes, and depending on how much blow-by you have coming back, it could build up like that.

The fuel economy might be something else, but you should really get that weld looked at, as Security said.

4 litres of EXTRA oil? Wow, thats alot! That much excess oil is certain to cause the extra buildup of oil in the inlet tract due to an increase in crankcase pressure and would for sure be dipping the crank, so that may go someway to your terrible fuel consumption (dragging the crank through oil causes massive drag and oil mist on/in the engine).

But yeah, you need for repair the dodgy weld, and while your there spray a heap of carby cleaner through the inlet system to get rid of the oil, otherwise you might find yourself forever re-clamping blown-off 'cooler pipes.

thanx marlin,

any other reasons it consuming so much fuel? my mates get bout 400-450 kms from their r33's, me only 280kms :P

also the car is spluttering once it hits FULL boost?? i regapped my spark plugs to 1.1, but i might put em down to .8?

Edited by Mark-R33

The fuel economy could be the O2 sensor. If at all possible, beg/borrow/steal a consult cable and see how the motor runs. The O2 sensor readout should oscillate with the lowest amplitude less than 0.4V and the highest amplitude greater than 0.55V. It should oscillate with a min frequency of 0.8Hz.

If the sensor isn't doing this, according to Nissan, it is stuffed and should be replaced.

Then again, if you have a bigass fuel pump, 280km/tank may be normal?

thanx for the help, managed to fix the car, and if ne1 has the same problem this might be a fix:

regapped plugs back to .8, and put tape around coil pak (like in the other thread), this got rid of the splutter on boost

the oil problem was due to the fact that the dikhad put 2much oil in, hopefully its all good

a compression check was also completed, the results are:

C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6

160 162 161 160 164 162

im guessing this is good coz they r fairly similar????

Edited by Mark-R33

yep. good even, high compression.

you'll find that the tape only works for a few days/weeks maybe.

clean out the inside of your coils with a dremil drill (very lightly!!) just to get the build-up of crap off the inside of them.. or you can try steel wool.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...