Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all!

Could anyone please point me in the right direction as to how to install headlight globes for my Skyline?

I have the globes already (H1 Type), but I don't know how to install the globes into the headlight assemblies.

I just want to change my low-level lights, as one of them got blown. My parker lamps and high-beam lights are fine.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks all!

1. Unscrew cap and move out of the way

2. Un-hook wire clip

3. Pull out headlight bulb + bulb holder

4. Pull out bulb from holder

5. Put new bulb in holder

6. Put back holder into place

7. Hook wire clip

8. Screw cap

9. Test lights!

  • 3 months later...

Yeah its the same process but the high beams were much harder to access (atleast for me), could not see &^%.

Speaking of which, can someone mention how to change the parkers? :P I think i can see the little tab thing that has to be pulled out... but cant get it out. lol

Edited by Xizor

Parkers - look down in the tiny gap. there is this white thing. It's very small. basically, you turn it.

It will be an absolute bitch without removing the washer bottle. Expect possible blood unless if you've got pint size hands.

turn it, which will unlock it, then pull it out.

the parkers are really well buried. to get to the drivers side you WILL have to remove the washer bottle, loosen the fusebox so you can remove the overflow bottle, and then get your hands in there. gynecologists can do this without removing the washer bottle. i can't.

Even then, you can unplug the wiring but I couldn't get enough leverage on the parker socket to unlock it (it twists anticlockwise). A brainwave presented itself when i spotted my needlenose pliers, and they work like a dream. Don't cut yourself to ribbons, use the pliers. one end on each corner of the socket and twist gently, it'll pop right out. Use the pliers to lock them in again when you've changed the bulb.

Also, my plugs had all this white gunky shit in them which was making the contact iffy, and the parkers would cut in and out. i hit them with an air duster followed by a shitload of electronic cleaning solvent, which blew some of the gunk out. after that they work perfectly.

if you can do your parkers the H1s should be a piece of piss! :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...