Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are used rotors off a race car. I purchased two sets as I wanted to have a spare set should I have problems with any rotor/s. But looking at the meat on them and the condition I think I was being a tad paranoid and the spare set would only sit in storage for an eternity.

The front set of rotors have done a practice session, about 20-30 laps of Phillip Island and the rears have done a drive day for sponsors at Eastern Creek. So perhaps 20 laps???

The front rotors are Brembo and the rear rotors are Performance Friction. Both sets are slotted. See

http://www.performancefriction.com/pages/about_pfc.htm

Depending on the caliper and wheel combination you run, the fronts will readily fit within an 18" rim. I will most likely hold onto my other set and run the 340s on front until I can afford some nice 18" rims to accommodate the 375mm fronts.

Will post pics up over the weekend.

Asking $450 for the fronts and $400 for the rears.

Can source custom hats but would rather not have to.

Std R32 GTR has 296mm rotor.

You may be able to run the 340mm rotor on your front with a caliper adaptor. Will fit inside most 17” wheels. Im hoping to get my hands on some Porsche brakes in the next week or so, if not then I will be trying some R32 GTR callipers with the 340mm rotors in a few weeks time…as the 375mm rotors will require 18s, and I don’t want to run my current 18s on the track as they are too heavy.

To fit to an R32 GTR you will need at a minimum hats and brackets for your callipers. Best to also run aftermarket callipers, be it AP, Brembo etc etc.

Hey Roy, my R32GTR has 18x9.5 inch rims and allready has a R33 GTR Disk/Caliper Brembo upgrade. In your opinion what would i need in order to run those big bad 375mm biatches...

Id just be worried wether i could adapt a bracket to push the 4pot Brembos far enough out to house those mother disks...

Where are you???

Cheers...

Me and the rotors are in Vic. The R33 Brembo calipers use a 30mm thick rotor. These are 35.5mm thick so forgetting the diameter issue, they are too thick for the std caliper.

Depending on what the internal diameter of your 18" rim is then CP5555 AP 6 pot calipers are a good chance of fitting inside the rim. I understand Giant in Bris runs the same sized rotor with AP CP5555 with R34 GTR rims on his R32 GTR.

But yeh will need new calipers...

I shoud be able to verify if a CP5555 can fit under a std R34GTR with the 375s if brisy wants.... can dummy them up.

I have a feeling that stock R34 wheels won't be able to fit them - you'll need something like a TE37 with larger clearance in an 18 to fit them

PS that is cheap as for the rotors... 36mm thick AP rotors retail for in excess of $600ea!

R34 GTR in Vic is running the same rotors with AP CP555 calipers (about $1200 each) and they fit inside TE37s, LM GT4s, CE28Ns but just a tad too big for the std R34 GTR wheels...perhaps Giant in Brissie is mistaken on his rotor size or milled a bit of the caliper to clear...not something i would recommendation.

Other models of AP calipers saddle the rotor better and will fit inside R34 GTR rims, just as Harrops and Alcons etc

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...62_50_50183.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...2_50_132907.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...62_50_80988.jpg

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...2_50_160787.jpg

how much $$$ are we looking at to get hats made for these rotors you are selling to suit a GTR and How much $ can you get hats for Alcon rotors (343mm x 32mm) made for to suit a GTR, using any off set to fit.

Thanks.

For between $350-450 i can get hats made for either set of the above rotors. Once you have rotors/hats you can give them a light machining to clean up the face of the rotor.

PWR in Brissie do all the gear for Alcon, and they are one of the people i was going to approach for hats, they are more expensive as they are anodised etc etc. and they are in another state...plus a friend has found a good local machinist for hats in Vic

Also, if you want hats for the 375s then i can get PWR/Alcon hats for them at a good price, the only reason i didnt get them is that the hats whilst being the right PCD use a non std Nissan offset. This could or could not be a problem, but the hats that were on these rotors allowed for the ridcilously wide endurance style calipers... so may or may not work

For the front, don't you also need caliper offset brackets for AP CP5555 calipers to fit on a GTR with those 375mm rotors and the alloy hats you can get?

When fitting the rear disk - the 340mm, can standard brembo's with say caliper offset brackets be used to allow for these disks?

Basically for a GTR R33 once you have:

Front

AP CP5555

your disk's 375mm

alloy hats (@$350-450)

Caliper offset bracket?

brake lines?

Rear

Standard Brembo Calipers

your disk's 340mm

alloy hats (@$350-450)

Caliper offset bracket?

brake lines?

do you need anything to complete the setup, re: my question of caliper offsets and maybe brake lines?

Edited by WetGTR
For the front, don't you also need caliper offset brackets for AP CP5555 calipers to fit on a GTR with those 375mm rotors and the alloy hats you can get?

When fitting the rear disk - the 340mm, can standard brembo's with say caliper offset brackets be used to allow for these disks?

Basically for a GTR R33 once you have:

Front

AP CP5555

your disk's 375mm

alloy hats (@$350-450)

Caliper offset bracket?

brake lines?

Rear

Standard Brembo Calipers

your disk's 340mm

alloy hats (@$350-450)

Caliper offset bracket?

brake lines?

do you need anything to complete the setup, re: my question of caliper offsets and maybe brake lines?

Yep , depending on what caliper you run you will also need mounting brackets. Calipers are all so different so you will have to get the bracket made based on the caliper you chose to run.

The rears would be a no go, also the handbrake would need to be modified to run these on the rear...If you supply the calipers, the hats and brackets can be made up to suit. Supply me one caliper and can get a firm price for it to be done.

If your after an economical rear rotor upgrade as well then i know someone that will be able to do a cost effective rotor upgrade that allows the original handbrake assembly to be retained.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Anyone that wants the 340mm rotors then i will take $200 for the pair.

Need them out of the house as i dont have enough space for all the car parts. I still want to run these rotors, only wont be happening until i get the gearbox, engine etc sorted. So not going to hold onto stuff for another 6 months when im likely to be OS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...