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Hi, I not long ago installed a Z32 as the stock one decided to stop working (Stalling, hesitating and misfiring), I diagnosed through consult port cable. I didn't realise you had to retune, which is probably why it is missing on idle still. I was just wondering what are my retune options? I don't partially want to spend 1000+ on an aftermarket ECU until later down the track being non turbo due to p plates.

Thanks for any help in advance?

Edited by buster1996

Hi, I not long ago installed a Z32 as the stock one decided to stop working (Stalling, hesitating and misfiring), I diagnosed through consult port cable. I didn't realise you had to retune, which is probably why it is missing on idle still. I was just wondering what are my retune options? I don't partially want to spend 1000+ on an aftermarket ECU until later down the track being non turbo due to p plates.

Thanks for any help in advance?

Best bet get another stock afm.

I'm surprised if even runs.

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Found this as im aboutto do a swap on mine

http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#35

What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter? When you choose another airflow meter to allow a large opening diameter or a higher resolution meter you need to select the unit from the [sETTING], [Airflow] menu and select it from the list. You should do this before you start your engine to prevent really unsafe mixtures and also to prevent stalling/bad idle. Once you have highlighted the correct model you have fitted to the car you can simply press [PREV] on the hand controller and return to normal [MONITOR] and start the car. It should idle OK (well hopefully) however this does not mean it is safe and ready to go. Selecting the correct airflow model simply loads the voltage ramp table into the PowerFC. This tells the PowerFC at what airflow levels the meter is reporing in its voltage range. You should have your AFR's checked with your tuner and a wideband after an airflow meter change to ensure its not too lean or too rich. If you need to drive a fair distance to your tuner or would like to run around for a few days on the new airflow meter without it being retuned/checked then theres a simple procedure you can follow

1. Let engine warm up and idle
2. Give the engine a bit of a rev in neutral and check to see if smoke comes out the exhaust.


3a. If you see *some* black smoke
-> Then its running rich (preferred) and it should be OK to drive around on light/low load, although your fuel economy will probably be terrible.


3b. If you see *lots* of black smoke
-> Then its running very very rich and you'll need to lean it out a bit. You can do this by going into [sETTING], [iGN/INJ] and then on the right hand side you will see INJ correction. You can then slowly change the ADJ value to a negative value in small increments. After a few adjustments give the engine a rev and there should not be as much black smoke. Repeat until there is a little bit but its not *lots* of black smoke.


3c. If you don't see any black smoke
-> Then its running lean or possibly too lean. Do the same procedure (as above) but add more fuel by adding or upping the ADJ value and after a few increments try a free rev. If you get some black smoke then you are starting to richen it up.


4. You should remember this value or write down the correction number used because if you turn the car's power off you must come back to here each time to put the value back in. This is because its only a temporary test mode and it should not be used all the time. You could also give this value to your tuner to give him an idea of how rich its running.



Source: Apexi Documentation

80m RB25 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 300ps (221kW)
80mm VG30 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 500ps (368kW)
90mm VH41 airflow meter can measure up to approx. 400ps (294kW)

*Output is calculated off of measurable air volume

Airflow Meter Adjustment Range
Using 100% as a base, the airflow can be adjusted from +50% (-50%) - 200%

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