Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just wondering if fatz or other r31 friendly people could give me some advice on something.

I currently have an r33 with a range of mild mods. It drifts pretty well, but i'm just really too scared to bend it.

I was hoping to pick up an r31 to take over the drift duties. If I bent the 31 or smashed it, or whatever, it would be fine. Just bang the panels back out with a hammer, gaffa tape fix, whatever.

Does the stock rb30 powered aussie 31 drift alright?

Anything I should be on the look out for apart from an lsd, which is of course important?

Can the stock lsd be welded?

What mods from the nissan range e.g. 32s, 33s, s13s etc can be bolted straight in or with minimal mods (I was thinking more along the lines of suspension components etc?

Does anyone actually have one for sale? I'm talking cheap like around 1k, which won't die on me, and which may have some stuff on it already like new clutch etc.

Cheers fellars

32s are way over priced for what they are. To get a decent 32, that is, one that won't blow up, i'd probably have to pay around 11-12k. Then I still end up only having a stock way underpowered and undertorqued car. It would still have boat suspensions and everything.

If I was going to pay aroudn that price, i'd just pick up another 33 for around 13-14k instead. The rb25 would be much more appropriate.

That's why I was looking for a 31. I've read various posts from fatz and other knowledgeable people :/ in the past before.

Starting with the stock rb30, which has quite a bit of torque and power. Then welding the diff.....

Aussie ones don't have IRS, the suspension is pretty crap on them, the RB30 is OK I guess but pretty gutless in my opinion. Not an ideal candidate as a drift car. The Jap spec ones on the other hand have a bit more potential (specifically the coupes)

R32 is a whole different (and better) world worth every cent over a aussie R31.....

You won't find jack shit for $1k either btw.

Why don't you just get out to a skid pan day in the R33, your chances are very slim to none of bending the car if you don't act like a wanker. Very hard to do damage to your car unless you're trying hard to over do it. Helps you get a feel for the car and will let you learn how to control it.

Edited by d0p3y

mate and RB30 is hardly powerful next to an RB20DET. plus you will be hard pressed to find a manual with LSD for $1K. you can do it, but it will be so far from track worthy it's not funny.

hahaha fatz knowledgable! next someone will say dirt garage is a nice bloke :ban:

I've got no idea aout r31s, except that if you don't mind a locked diff don't worry about a 20yo LSD....just weld up the centre of the axle instead :D

mate r31 is great choice for thrashing

1stly as you said you can smash it and bash it out with a hammer

2ndly you get plenty of women...

locked diff in a r31 is a winner. yes it does not have irs but thats also the advantage to having live axle locked up with rb30e. slides so easily.

as for your question : "Does the stock rb30 powered aussie 31 drift alright?"

look here for your answer

The.Choko.Durrie.MotorSport.R31.DriftLand.tn.jpg

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...1.DriftLand.wmv - 8.2 meg from very quick server

that's pete (fatz) driving my r31. stock rb30e engine, shitty 2 1/4" tip. and diff locked up. suspension was very very very used koni shocks which were in their 4th car by the time they made it into my car. not bad for a stocker me thinks.

ScreenShotSmall.jpg

also here are some in car videos of the car being drifted at wakefield.

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...eld.Park.01.wmv

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...eld.Park.02.wmv

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...eld.Park.03.wmv (once again all hosted on very quick server)

and this video will give u idea of how much an rb30e can take - about 4+ minutes sitting on the brakes in 1st gear ripping a burnout at wsid (shithouse burnout in the end i know!!)

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/Mark.D.Th...ws.Radiator.wmv

i still own this car. it is a 1988 R31 Silhouette. From the outside, the only mods I have done are Series 3 conversion (means round taillights at rear, and sloped headlights at front with different grille, bumper and bonnet). and it IS FOR SALE. it has had the rb30det taken out of it (putting it into my old hr31 coupe).

x1pmAkndzHuOfeimqvHaMsWcC-5M6sKqP2g.jpg

inside it has full 6 point roll cage and stripped interior. roll cage has since been painted black so that it's not visible from outside. roll cage has made the car stiff which is a winner for the track - rigidity of it plus the locked diff makes it go around corners a dream.

pics below of cage (note - doors have trims on them now) - pics are of when car got stuff installed hence messy in pics.

DSC05138.jpg

DSC05139.jpg

DSC05140.jpg

DSC05144.jpg

DSC05143.jpg

cage was designed so u can fit wheels in the back seat still.

looks plain on outside so you never attract any interest. but good on inside. very light.

car comes with some wheels and tyres. about 12-16 in fact. sets or pairs.

heres's some of em

hkhkh.jpg

to make car handle even better you simply install s13 struts and control arm into front. you can then go s13 coilovers in front if you so desire. they also fit in rear too. other shit can be bolted in also etc.

anyway thats about all for now. car is nsw registered. rego until 31/07/06. if interested let me know.

cheers, mark

Aussie ones don't have IRS, the suspension is pretty crap on them, the RB30 is OK I guess but pretty gutless in my opinion. Not an ideal candidate as a drift car. The Jap spec ones on the other hand have a bit more potential (specifically the coupes)

R32 is a whole different (and better) world worth every cent over a aussie R31.....

You won't find jack shit for $1k either btw.

Why don't you just get out to a skid pan day in the R33, your chances are very slim to none of bending the car if you don't act like a wanker. Very hard to do damage to your car unless you're trying hard to over do it. Helps you get a feel for the car and will let you learn how to control it.

I've had my car out at skiddies, and oran part north circuit a few times. It goes alright considering it only has the stock Vspec diff and no mech diff.

I'm just too worried about bending panels, especially at OP. I'm too worried to commit enough into the drift and too worried to drift at higher speeds etc. It's pretty scary when you spin out too, because i find that people drive pretty close together. There ahve been a few occassions where the person behind has almost hit me after I spun out

Edited by 97r33gtst-typeM

88, thanks for the offer mate, but a cage is a bit too hardcore for me. I was sorta looking for somethign that the cops won't hassle me about. e.g. after welding the diff, I might need to test it (on private roads) etc.

Is it possible to weld a diff if it isn't an lsd?

seriously if you want to do some drift or circuit in a cheap 31 then marks car is the go. it already has some cash thrown at it to make it the best little 31 it can be. it has full cams approved (i think) roll cage which would make a huge difference to the way it handles. plus comes with heaps of rims and tyres, and a welded diff. what more could you ask for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...