Jump to content
SAU Community

Fatz's Advice Needed On R31 Driftability!

MANWHORE

By MANWHORE,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted

I was just wondering if fatz or other r31 friendly people could give me some advice on something.

I currently have an r33 with a range of mild mods. It drifts pretty well, but i'm just really too scared to bend it.

I was hoping to pick up an r31 to take over the drift duties. If I bent the 31 or smashed it, or whatever, it would be fine. Just bang the panels back out with a hammer, gaffa tape fix, whatever.

Does the stock rb30 powered aussie 31 drift alright?

Anything I should be on the look out for apart from an lsd, which is of course important?

Can the stock lsd be welded?

What mods from the nissan range e.g. 32s, 33s, s13s etc can be bolted straight in or with minimal mods (I was thinking more along the lines of suspension components etc?

Does anyone actually have one for sale? I'm talking cheap like around 1k, which won't die on me, and which may have some stuff on it already like new clutch etc.

Cheers fellars

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

32s are way over priced for what they are. To get a decent 32, that is, one that won't blow up, i'd probably have to pay around 11-12k. Then I still end up only having a stock way underpowered and undertorqued car. It would still have boat suspensions and everything.

If I was going to pay aroudn that price, i'd just pick up another 33 for around 13-14k instead. The rb25 would be much more appropriate.

That's why I was looking for a 31. I've read various posts from fatz and other knowledgeable people :/ in the past before.

Starting with the stock rb30, which has quite a bit of torque and power. Then welding the diff.....

d0p3y Grand Master

d0p3y

Posted
Posted (edited)

Aussie ones don't have IRS, the suspension is pretty crap on them, the RB30 is OK I guess but pretty gutless in my opinion. Not an ideal candidate as a drift car. The Jap spec ones on the other hand have a bit more potential (specifically the coupes)

R32 is a whole different (and better) world worth every cent over a aussie R31.....

You won't find jack shit for $1k either btw.

Why don't you just get out to a skid pan day in the R33, your chances are very slim to none of bending the car if you don't act like a wanker. Very hard to do damage to your car unless you're trying hard to over do it. Helps you get a feel for the car and will let you learn how to control it.

Edited by d0p3y
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

mate and RB30 is hardly powerful next to an RB20DET. plus you will be hard pressed to find a manual with LSD for $1K. you can do it, but it will be so far from track worthy it's not funny.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

hahaha fatz knowledgable! next someone will say dirt garage is a nice bloke :ban:

I've got no idea aout r31s, except that if you don't mind a locked diff don't worry about a 20yo LSD....just weld up the centre of the axle instead :D

88silhouette Grand Master

88silhouette

Posted
Posted

mate r31 is great choice for thrashing

1stly as you said you can smash it and bash it out with a hammer

2ndly you get plenty of women...

locked diff in a r31 is a winner. yes it does not have irs but thats also the advantage to having live axle locked up with rb30e. slides so easily.

as for your question : "Does the stock rb30 powered aussie 31 drift alright?"

look here for your answer

The.Choko.Durrie.MotorSport.R31.DriftLand.tn.jpg

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...1.DriftLand.wmv - 8.2 meg from very quick server

that's pete (fatz) driving my r31. stock rb30e engine, shitty 2 1/4" tip. and diff locked up. suspension was very very very used koni shocks which were in their 4th car by the time they made it into my car. not bad for a stocker me thinks.

ScreenShotSmall.jpg

also here are some in car videos of the car being drifted at wakefield.

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...eld.Park.01.wmv

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...eld.Park.02.wmv

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/marks4doo...eld.Park.03.wmv (once again all hosted on very quick server)

and this video will give u idea of how much an rb30e can take - about 4+ minutes sitting on the brakes in 1st gear ripping a burnout at wsid (shithouse burnout in the end i know!!)

http://kero.drifthost.com/videos/Mark.D.Th...ws.Radiator.wmv

i still own this car. it is a 1988 R31 Silhouette. From the outside, the only mods I have done are Series 3 conversion (means round taillights at rear, and sloped headlights at front with different grille, bumper and bonnet). and it IS FOR SALE. it has had the rb30det taken out of it (putting it into my old hr31 coupe).

x1pmAkndzHuOfeimqvHaMsWcC-5M6sKqP2g.jpg

inside it has full 6 point roll cage and stripped interior. roll cage has since been painted black so that it's not visible from outside. roll cage has made the car stiff which is a winner for the track - rigidity of it plus the locked diff makes it go around corners a dream.

pics below of cage (note - doors have trims on them now) - pics are of when car got stuff installed hence messy in pics.

DSC05138.jpg

DSC05139.jpg

DSC05140.jpg

DSC05144.jpg

DSC05143.jpg

cage was designed so u can fit wheels in the back seat still.

looks plain on outside so you never attract any interest. but good on inside. very light.

car comes with some wheels and tyres. about 12-16 in fact. sets or pairs.

heres's some of em

hkhkh.jpg

to make car handle even better you simply install s13 struts and control arm into front. you can then go s13 coilovers in front if you so desire. they also fit in rear too. other shit can be bolted in also etc.

anyway thats about all for now. car is nsw registered. rego until 31/07/06. if interested let me know.

cheers, mark

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Aussie ones don't have IRS, the suspension is pretty crap on them, the RB30 is OK I guess but pretty gutless in my opinion. Not an ideal candidate as a drift car. The Jap spec ones on the other hand have a bit more potential (specifically the coupes)

R32 is a whole different (and better) world worth every cent over a aussie R31.....

You won't find jack shit for $1k either btw.

Why don't you just get out to a skid pan day in the R33, your chances are very slim to none of bending the car if you don't act like a wanker. Very hard to do damage to your car unless you're trying hard to over do it. Helps you get a feel for the car and will let you learn how to control it.

I've had my car out at skiddies, and oran part north circuit a few times. It goes alright considering it only has the stock Vspec diff and no mech diff.

I'm just too worried about bending panels, especially at OP. I'm too worried to commit enough into the drift and too worried to drift at higher speeds etc. It's pretty scary when you spin out too, because i find that people drive pretty close together. There ahve been a few occassions where the person behind has almost hit me after I spun out

Edited by 97r33gtst-typeM
MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

88, thanks for the offer mate, but a cage is a bit too hardcore for me. I was sorta looking for somethign that the cops won't hassle me about. e.g. after welding the diff, I might need to test it (on private roads) etc.

Is it possible to weld a diff if it isn't an lsd?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

seriously if you want to do some drift or circuit in a cheap 31 then marks car is the go. it already has some cash thrown at it to make it the best little 31 it can be. it has full cams approved (i think) roll cage which would make a huge difference to the way it handles. plus comes with heaps of rims and tyres, and a welded diff. what more could you ask for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...